Moving up from a Lubitel 166B TLR?

[anthonym3]

The problems with the film advance are usually because most do not know that the knurled button on the side with the film counter must be depressed and turned counter clockwise until number 1 shows in the film counter window in order to cock the shutter. Once this is done there is no problem with film advance.Of course some models lack the button and film can be advanced by turning the film advance wheel.

 

[abruzzi]

I bought an excellent condition Yashica 124G here in the for sale forum for $125 plus shipping, so something like that is doable for under $150. On the other side I got an Bronica ETRSi with waistlevel finder, 120 back, and PE 50mm lens for $220 plus shipping on eBay. Part of it is patience. Figure out what could potentially be in your price range that you would like to own. Then check classified here, eBay listings, KEH and UsedPhotoPro listings, and check them every week. Ignore the buy-it-now listing and wait for the actual auctions on eBay. Eventually you’ll get a good deal.

 

[AndyH]

The problems with the film advance are usually because most do not know that the knurled button on the side with the film counter must be depressed and turned counter clockwise until number 1 shows in the film counter window in order to cock the shutter. Once this is done there is no problem with film advance.Of course some models lack the button and film can be advanced by turning the film advance wheel.

Yes, I have seen one with this damage. The problem is that once the gears are stripped or bent, there are no repair parts available and donor cameras can get expensive. I do agree with your major point that these are splendid models. If you can find one in working condition and with a clean lens, I'd put it ahead of any other low price used models generally available. Which models do you think have the best lenses? I haven't enough experience with them to know.

Andy

 

[anthonym3]

I have four IKOFLEX ,one model 2 with uncoated but "bloomed" TRIOTAR,one model 1 with coated NOVAR ANASTIGMAT another model 1 with coated OPTON TESSAR and one almost mint model 1B with coated NOVAR ANASTIGMAT I have sent test rolls for processing and am awaiting the results. TRIOTAR is said to be good for portraits due to it's softness, and pretty good stopped down,NOVARS are said to be good for portraits and very good to excellent at smaller apertures, TESSAR speaks for itself. Tony

 

[AgX]

one model 2 with uncoated but "bloomed" TRIOTAR"

What do you mean by "bloomed"?
Unintended iridescance due to storage in agressive environment?

 

[anthonym3]

I have been told that it is oxidation built up over the years that enhances contrast and appears to look like an oil slick It is supposed to have been the inspiration for the later coatings on lenses. I have uploaded a photo of the lenses.

 

[AndyH]

I have four IKOFLEX ,one model 2 with uncoated but "bloomed" TRIOTAR,one model 1 with coated NOVAR ANASTIGMAT another model 1 with coated OPTON TESSAR and one almost mint model 1B with coated NOVAR ANASTIGMAT I have sent test rolls for processing and am awaiting the results. TRIOTAR is said to be good for portraits due to it's softness, and pretty good stopped down,NOVARS are said to be good for portraits and very good to excellent at smaller apertures, TESSAR speaks for itself. Tony

Thanks! I have never found a three element lens to my liking, but I am always happy with a tried and true Tessar. Just what I need - GAS for a camera that virtually duplicates the performance of my Rollei. But they are so enticingly inexpensive and feel so good to use....

<sigh>
Andy

 

[k.hendrik]

I recently acquired a Lubitel 166B but I haven't finished a roll yet. I'm wondering, what is out there to "move up" from this camera in MF these days? I've heard that this camera is inferior to Yashica, Mamiya, etc. models. due to Russian construction and poor optics.

But for the price, I think it's pretty good and I wanted it to get me started in medium format.

However, if it ever were to break, I'd like to replace it with a better model. I'm thinking about a Kiev 6C (Pentacon 6 copy), how is this camera? Or a Kiev 88, but it looks like it's difficult to find one in good condition. A Kiev 6C can be found for maybe $100 without a lens, is this a decent deal? Or maybe an old Soviet Iskra camera, but it seems like it might be risky because of the bellows being fragile.

I'm looking to spend maybe $150 max (for now) on a medium format camera. Is this realistic? Or is the Lubitel a decent enough MF camera that I can stick with it over the more expensive models.

Also, do I need to worry about thoriated eyepieces or lenses with these old soviet cameras? I've heard the soviets did not have the technology to use thorium, so it's nothing to worry about (plus they used outdated designs).

Not worried about the lenses so much as the eyepieces, which I've heard can actually be a little bit harmful and there's regulations against.

Not a roll developed and already want to move up; funny way to discover MF.

 

[Dali]

I have been told that it is oxidation built up over the years that enhances contrast and appears to look like an oil slick It is supposed to have been the inspiration for the later coatings on lenses. I have uploaded a photo of the lenses.

It happened to an uncoated Rolleiflex I had a decade ago. Not sure it enhanced the contrast but it did not harm neither.

 

[removedacct1]

I once owned a Lubitel, and I liked it a lot - for three rolls - and then the shutter failed catastrophically. I don't care to try another one, since they have a terrible reputation for shutters failing.

For about $100 you can get a Yashica Mat, or maybe even a Rolleicord with a nice Tessar lens. (I bought a Tessar lensed Rolleiflex last spring for $80 and it is one of my favorites TLRs) You can get a much better quality TLR for very modest money than the sad likes of a Lubitel.