Mounting print for Portfolio box

Vernal Dark

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Vernal Dark

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WPPD-2025-TULIPS

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WPPD-2025-TULIPS

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Deco.jpg

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Deco.jpg

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  • Apr 29, 2025
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FerruB

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Hello,

I would like to make a portfolio box with around 10-15 8x10 fiber based prints matted to 12x16 (not yet sure about the mat size).

Usually I mat my prints for framing using corner holder and a back board resulting in a rather thick and loose “sandwich” with not finished edges. For the portfolio box however I would like to end up with a thin (max 1mm), solid and with finished edges matted print.

I was thinking to use thinner mat board (I don’t even know if it exists…), fix the print on a thin board with a good bookbinding glue and then finally glue the mat to the board. Last step finish the edges.

Do you think something like this could work? Do you have any suggestions to improve the result?

Cheers,
Ferru
 

removed account4

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hi ferru

i'm a bit confused by your description, but ...
have you seen this book : https://www.amazon.com/Books-Boxes-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=0830634835

it has simple techniques on making portfolios, boxes, and books. it also has flattening/drying techniques that people without nipping presses &c can use
seeing it is sometimes hard to get one's hands on book making supplies..

making presentation books and portfolios can be kind of addictive ...
good luck with your project !
john
 

adelorenzo

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I would suggest dry mounting rather than glue. Before I got my dry mount press I used a clothes iron and that worked just fine, especially for smaller prints like 8x10.

The thinnest I have ever used is 4-ply mat and backing board but you can also get 2-ply.
 
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I used to work in an art museum and prints are mounted with 2 ply rag with a 4 ply over mat. The prints most of the time is not dry mounted but mounted with mylar corners. That way, the print can be removed for conservation if needed.
 

faberryman

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I'm not sure what you mean by a portfolio box. Are you referring to a museum box with drop front or something else? I can fit 12 prints matted with 4-ply mat and 1/8 inch foam board in a 3 inch drop front box. If I used a 4-play mat board for the backing instead of the foam board, I could probably fit 16 prints. I prefer a box to a portfolio as individual prints as easier to handle, particular where you have both horizontal and vertical images. 2-ply boards are thinner, but I think they look cheap.
 
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2-ply boards are thinner, but I think they look cheap.
Yes, but you can see them under the art with a mat board framed under glass.
 
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FerruB

FerruB

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Many thanks to all of you.
I binded a couple of photo-books using traditional methods (sewing the pages and so on), I agree is kind of addictive and very time consuming but the results are astonishing. Here is the last one I did as a present, all from sketch, cotton paper, press printed and fibre based pictures. However if I had to sell one of those it will cost you a kidney :wink:

Book1.jpg Book2.jpg

So I want to make something simpler but still very well-finished. A well-made box is not an issue. I tried to mound a 8x10 print as usual (using a 4ply matt and mount board) but the result is not very elegant. Far too thick and it feels like a brick.

I discovered the 2ply mat online which is about 1mm, but I couldn’t find it here in the UK. I am thinking to give a try with a good cotton watercolour paper which is about 0.5mm as a mat and mount board. I give priority to handling-experience and aesthetic. Archival is not the ultimate goal but I am using exclusively real acid free materials.

For example this paper www.atlantisart.co.uk/khadi-100-cotton-rag-paper-320gsm-smooth
 
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Nice job! When I retire, I want to spend some time in learning how to do Japanese book binding to make portfolios.
 
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FerruB

FerruB

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Just to give an update - at the end I used a 4 ply board and the result was good - in the picture the mounted print and the box (as well handmade from scratch).

portfolio.JPG


Initially I wanted the print to be floated mounted on the board with a window mat leaving 1/4" top and sides and 1/2" bottom around the print. However, despite using a T-ruler, I found it difficult to cut the print precisely square. For some reason I was always 1mm off...
 
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