IDK where you got the formula, but I would not use Ammonia in a developer for a modern film. Even the fix you use should be ammonia free. Most people do not know or use this simple guideline.
Ammonia is a fogging agent that also speeds the fixing reaction. It is also a strong base that raises the pH.
PE
Haist seems to be the expert on thissubject and he covers it with aformula in 'Modern Photographic Processing'I never tried it.PE ma be able to elaborate on the subject.can anyone give me information about good monobath developers?
does anyone still use this sort of thing? if you do, do you like it, is it convenient, or is it a total waste of time?
the other night, i had a conversation with a chemist who did a lot of work with the photo lab index. he sparked my interest in this sort of thing when told me of some monobaths that he created for himself. his film was always "ultra sharp" and he attributed it to the monobath chemistry he processed his film in. just to give you an example of how sharp his film was ... he shot 9mm film of a scene & made an enlargements. prominent photographers thought it was shot on large format because it was really really sharp and details like a man's bloodshot eyes &C could easily be seen.
for those who use monobaths, i have a PLI from the late 30s or 40s, is there a specific formula i should look at to try this out? or do you have a favorite you like to use? is there a good one will they work with today's films being not as silver-rich & filled with poly-vinyls? i know the chemist suggested that if he used his secret formula today, he would have problems with reticulation because of the lack of silver.
and lastly - are there any issues regarding archival stability &C when you use a single bath "system" like this, or is it all pretty much the same?
much thanks! ( in advance)
- john
Grant wrote an entire textbook on monobaths!
PE
Very cool to see a commercial monobath available. I think I'll stick with FX6a, if I get back to using monobaths again, but the sample photos have that Type 55 monobath neg look. I think it's an edge effect thing.
Grant wrote an entire textbook on monobaths!
PE
Monobaths are best for applied uses as there is little need for tight temperature & time control, between about 15ºC-27ºC. They have been used for military & space applications, as well as Polaroid, Xray films, Microfilms etc.
I worked on them so that potentially with a given emulsion the only user variable was exposure, and the monobath took away the parameter of under or over development over a manageable temperature range (15ºC-27ºC).
Geoffrey Crawley's FX6a monobath works well and can be fine tuned to match specific films. L F A Mason in Photographic Processing Chemistry lists a typical Monobath formula. Mason was head of Research at Ilford, his editor was G I P Levenson who held a similar position at Kodak Ltd (UK).
Typical Monobath
Sodium Sulphite (anhyd) 50g
Hydroquinone 15g
Phenidone 10g
Potash Alum 18g
Sodium Hydroxide 18g
Sodium Thiosulphate (5H20) 210g
Water to 1 litre
Water must be softened or deionised/distilled to prevent precipitates.
Use 1+1, 600ml working solution will process 6 rolls of 35mm/120 film, minimum Development time 7½ mins between 15.5ºC/60ºF and 26.5ºC/80ºF
I've not tried this particular monobath but suspect it's similar to Ilford's Monophen which they sold commercially.
Ian
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