I'm in the middle of trying to do this as well. I've got the blades out, but maybe you'll come to this problem next - I can't figure out which blade goes on top and how to attach the springs to them so they travel freely in the channels. They get stuck when the junction of spring and blade reaches the tube-shaped channel because it's not a smooth fit. The one time I've managed to get them to seem like they were ok, the blades didn't fully open when it fired. No physical damage to them though.
You have to get the screws out behind the two holes then take apart the channel they ride in.
Poke a hole in the blade to access the screws. When you take apart the channel be very careful with the tabs that are bent over which hold it together. Only bend them enough to get the blade out.
I am not inclined to do repairs, but as a long, long time Minox user, I found this discussion fascinating. Although there are drawings of shutters, this is the first time I have seen actual photographs of the shutters. I am even more impressed by these cameras.
A camera store was at bus stop where I waited to go to university in mid 1950s. Minox camera’s were displayed in window, but as I remember, incredibly expensive compared to other cameras on display. These photos show why.
Which Minox model are you working on? From your photo it could be an A or B.I'm in the middle of trying to do this as well.
Which Minox model are you working on? From your photo it could be an A or B.
So the same as me. Then you have the option of using also spare parts from a Minox B. At least here in Germany the B models are much cheaper than an A.Mine is an A (or IIIs, i guess) so no meter wires to deal with.
Were both of the springs intact when you took it apart?
Don’t forget to save the bumpers that go inside the springs.
So the same as me. Then you have the option of using also spare parts from a Minox B. At least here in Germany the B models are much cheaper than an A.
However, I'm still wondering what happened to my blades.
View attachment 358280
I have a bad feeling about just replacing them and then immediately having the same damage again.
Yes, that's exactly how I want to do it. Unhooking and hanging the springs in particular is a risk.When repairing mine, assuming the donor's shutter is working, I'm inclined to replace the entire cocking slide, springs, and blades as a unit (and maybe even the channel assembly), because I don't feel great about hooking and unhooking the ends of the tiny springs without damaging them or bending the blades, or getting oils or grease on them.
I've tried it many times now. The actuating pins only come up when the blade eyelets are in the correct position. After installing it, I will try it out more often without the front panel. Then I can close slowly and carefully and see if the pins are working properly.That looks as if maybe the shutter was cocked somehow without the blades moving all the way into position to be trapped by the actuating pins, and then it was opened and pushed closed a second time, forcing the ends of the blades into the extended actuating pins. I have no idea how that would happen, though - I guess it shouldn't be possible.
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