To avoid confusion, I compared images at base ISO with the best lenses. Higher ISO comparisons have to negotiate how well the camera software processes noise, and the unavoidable conclusion that larger formats are less noisy all other things being equal. There are other factors, too, optical characteristics other than sharpness. One of the lenses generally regarded as being among the sharpest available showed excessive chromatic aberration on the examples I looked at. Little point in being knife sharp if a treeline introduces a new colour to the paletteThe Canon I used before was also 20mp. I regularly make and sell 16x20 prints from my Canon files and my Olympus files, and they look great even up close. The Canon files have slightly less noise, but the Olympus files are sharper with finer detail resolution. Part of that is because the Olympus cameras do not have an antialiasing filter, and Canon uses a fairly strong one on their cameras. I think the Olympus lenses are just plain sharper, though, and that makes a difference. I'm using Olympus's higher priced lenses, not the cheap kit lenses. I have the 7-14mm f2.8 Pro, the 12-40mm f2.8 Pro, and the 60mm f2.8 Macro.
Understood. It's also a bit tricky because as you've mentioned is subjective. What one member will feel is acceptable "clear/sharp/crisp" or "acceptable resolution" will not be acceptable to another. Still though I think some people here will have the experience to provide a reasonable opinion. I think this weekend I may print out a few of my m43 photos at larger sizes just to see where my own thoughts lie.It's a subjective topic and I wouldn't want to infer that sharpness has any bearing on how good a photograph is. My criterion is how big can I print without being at a sharpness disadvantage to a larger format. /
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. It's worth mentioning that a printed surface is more forgiving of sharpening than a computer screen. Images that look pin sharp on a monitor can appear to lack sharpness in a print. It's a complicated business!Understood. It's also a bit tricky because as you've mentioned is subjective. What one member will feel is acceptable "clear/sharp/crisp" or "acceptable resolution" will not be acceptable to another. Still though I think some people here will have the experience to provide a reasonable opinion. I think this weekend I may print out a few of my m43 photos at larger sizes just to see where my own thoughts lie.
I'm thinking of Mario Giacomelli's work
Let me state blockend the restriction of big prints is from individual preferences!It's a subjective topic and I wouldn't want to infer that sharpness has any bearing on how good a photograph is. My criterion is how big can I print without being at a sharpness disadvantage to a larger format. Even then I acknowledge different formats render differently. Traditionally "serious" landscape photographers used larger film formats for their ability to make large exhibition prints, as well as camera movements to maintain sharpness throughout. Jem Southam spent years with a 10 x 8" camera, colour negative film, tripod and ladder as part of his photographic practice. He has become a digital photographer, in part because the papers he favours are no longer available. The point being that print size is one of the factors in a genre like landscape photography, so it's worth knowing what the limits of resolution are, in the knowledge each will have a slightly different standard of acceptability. Of course there are landscape photographs for which the resolution of fine detail is unimportant, but are still superb images. I'm thinking of Mario Giacomelli's work, for example:
http://www.anatomyfilms.com/mario-giacomelli-im-not-photographer/
Matt - can one realy come to more information from interpolation of a media ?A large portion of the "quality" that comes from a digital sensor comes from the "quality" of the processor in the camera and, if you are working from raw files, the quality of the raw converter you use.
I've had Costco print a couple of bordered 12"x16" prints from my Olympus OMD 10 Mark II. I've used the jpegs, straight from the camera, with at most an adjustment to brightness. The large size jpeg files from that camera are exactly the right size to make a 300 dpi bordered 12"x16" print - no resizing or cropping required.
The quality of the entire process - lens, camera sensor, exposure control, focus control, processor and programming in the camera, can help the person behind the camera obtain really quite amazing prints of that size - for $5.99 + tax on Fuji RA-4 paper.
Anything larger requires post-camera processing, because 12"x16" at 300 dpi prints make full use of all the pixels that come out of the camera.
So people who are printing larger are either printing at fewer dpi, or are applying software and skills to interpolate more detail than is natively available from the camera. Some of those people, and some of that software, can do amazing things.
Of course.Matt - can one realy come to more information from interpolation of a media ?
Well Matt - I am not so sure but I will think about that!Of course.
The information is added after the fact, and may or may not be different than the information present in the original scene, but it is indeed "more" information.
All sharpening algorithms change the information.
I've never understood how dedicated interpolation software works. Sharpening, contrast, saturation and the rest I get, and the role they play in enhancing the perception of "sharpness", among other things. Does it add pixels based on the proximity of similar pixels to effectively make a larger file and offer more information?Of course.
The information is added after the fact, and may or may not be different than the information present in the original scene, but it is indeed "more" information.
All sharpening algorithms change the information.
That is how I understand it.I've never understood how dedicated interpolation software works. Sharpening, contrast, saturation and the rest I get, and the role they play in enhancing the perception of "sharpness", among other things. Does it add pixels based on the proximity of similar pixels to effectively make a larger file and offer more information?
I have a 16mpx micro 4/3 camera, in the print aspect ratio 3x2 I calculate it gives an image 4900 x 3266 = 16mpx.
This is 3266/2 = 1633 line pairs/ picture height. On 35 mm film the picture height is 24 mm so the on film resolution equivalent to a 16mpx mft camera is 1633/ 24 = 68 lppm.
If the mft image is printed at 300 dpi this gives a width of 4900/300 =16.3 ins.
If you've got a 16MP m43 sensor and you crop it to a 3:2 aspect ratio, you don't have 16MP left. Not sure what performing lppm calculations gets you. When I've shown my work, I've never had anyone ask me what kind of camera I use, much less how many lppm it achieves.I have a 16mpx micro 4/3 camera, in the print aspect ratio 3x2 I calculate it gives an image 4900 x 3266 = 16mpx.
This is 3266/2 = 1633 line pairs/ picture height. On 35 mm film the picture height is 24 mm so the on film resolution equivalent to a 16mpx mft camera is 1633/ 24 = 68 lppm.
If the mft image is printed at 300 dpi this gives a width of 4900/300 =16.3 ins.
What printer are you using at what dpi?I think the wiggle room for M4/3 maximum size is somewhere between chriscrawfordphoto's 20 x 16" and my preferred 16 x 12". This difference may also be product of post processing.
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