MF cameras with mechanical shutters?

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hpulley

hpulley

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Yes, I read the manual before I decided what to buy! It was a good thing to do though honestly the manual makes it sound even more complicated than it is.

With only 10 shots in a roll I can easily shoot a whole roll in a lunchhour which I just did today (2003 expired NPH 400) to test the second back for leaks though I do hope some of those pictures of snow-covered trees and partially frozen creeks turn out (I took 35mm B&W as well just in case). I should get the rolls back tomorrow, here's hoping they worked out well enough to at least test for light leaks (ie. that the shutters on the lenses aren't so slow that the shots are just overexposed).

Took the tripod at lunch and never even set it up though I did use it this morning with the Portra 160. Tripods are hard to use in snow, not very stable and every time I adjust a leg it just sinks another way so I said the heck with it and shot 1/250th. Will see how they turn out...
 

ic-racer

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I was pretty set on getting a Bronica SQ as my first MF (yes, I'm still waffling on that) when I was reading in the manual that it uses a 6v Lithium/Alkaline battery like my AE-1. Well, I was out in the cold this morning and my AE-1's battery died on me, temporarily from the cold and that reminded me that I really wanted something fully mechanical like my preferred FTbN instead. I assume that like the AE-1, the Bronica SQ will have battery problems in extreme cold in which I often find myself shooting. The SQ falls back to a 1/500 shutter if the battery dies but that isn't really good enough.

So I'm wondering, which MF cameras are fully mechanical for shutter control? Mamiya RB? Fuji GSW 690-III? Fuji GW690-III? Pentax 6x7? Is there a list somewhere? I searched the forum and google but couldn't find one, sorry if I missed some easy search parameters.

Interesting. Alkaline battery should be usable to -20C Thats pretty cold. In fact I'd think the lubricants in a mechanical shutter would freeze up that low. I was out just last week with an 80's mechanical Rollieflex 35mm and it froze up at 0C (battery for the meter was still working though :smile: ).
 

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Interesting. Alkaline battery should be usable to -20C Thats pretty cold. In fact I'd think the lubricants in a mechanical shutter would freeze up that low. I was out just last week with an 80's mechanical Rollieflex 35mm and it froze up at 0C (battery for the meter was still working though :smile: ).

Time you had it CLAed.
 
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hpulley

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No, the battery in my AE-1 at least conks out quick in the cold after just a few exposures. Not sure the Bronica would do that but the RB67 is documented as working down to -20C. I'm rarely shooting colder than that, my fingers don't last long down there though with the big control levers of the RB67 I might even be able to wear full gloves. Usually I just wear glove liners so I can feel the little buttons on my 35mm gear.
 

Aja B

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'Alkaline battery should be usable to -20C.' Alkalines will be severely compromised at -20C, providing approx 25% or less of normal output, assuming fresh batteries. Expect worse, potentially zero, performance with used alakalines. Some electronic devices require a minimum input voltage. If the min input voltage is not met the device will not power-up. Contrast this scenario with a flashlight (having no min input voltage) using alkaline batteries at 15-20% performance. The bulb will power-up but will be very dim. Lithium batteries are the way to go at these temps if 'mission critical'. Silver oxide batts are between alkaline and litihum on the performance scale.
 
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hpulley

hpulley

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I'm using a 6V Lithium cell in my AE-1 and it is still no good. I can't finish a 24-roll with normal exposure times and one or two long exposures kills it temporarily. Sure, I can swap batteries putting one inside my jacket but with gloves on this is not easy and there is a good chance I'll drop one in the snow. If I need to take my gloves off then forget the camera, I don't last long out there at -20C without at least glove liners.

No, I'll take mechanical cameras in the cold please. Yes, they can break (I broke an FTbN when photographing the total lunar eclipse many years ago in bitter cold) and yes the springs can work a bit slowly. The Mamiya RB67 manual says the speeds are fine to -10C and it will work to -20C.

I guess I should have looked for an Apollo Hasselblad ;-) How much do they go for these days??? LOL
 

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I guess I should have looked for an Apollo Hasselblad ;-) How much do they go for these days??? LOL

It's the shipping that kills ya.
 
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hpulley

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Oh and BTW... I got the rolls of Portra 160 and Fujicolor NPH 400 back and they look good! No obvious light leaks, the only mostly blank frame is my one guess at the Christmas tree with the flash off, there are pinpoints of lights but no tree. The shot of the tree with flash, all the flash shots look great, sync to the leaf shutters seem very good. Outdoor shots look good too. Now if only I had a negative scanner or enlarger that did 6x7! Must rectify that situation STAT!
 

CGW

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Oh and BTW... I got the rolls of Portra 160 and Fujicolor NPH 400 back and they look good! No obvious light leaks, the only mostly blank frame is my one guess at the Christmas tree with the flash off, there are pinpoints of lights but no tree. The shot of the tree with flash, all the flash shots look great, sync to the leaf shutters seem very good. Outdoor shots look good too. Now if only I had a negative scanner or enlarger that did 6x7! Must rectify that situation STAT!

Great. Still, you might consider resealing the backs sometime. The RB67 is easily handled with gloves, even mitts. Changing film bare-handed in extreme cold can be brutal, so be grateful for the extra back. BTW, Vistek is offering Epson V500 scanners now for around $150--not bad for an OK scanner, especially with aftermarket film holders.
 
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hpulley

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I got a Canon CS9000F tonight, needed to be able to scan them for now and easier than choosing an enlarger quickly ;-)

At least one shot has a funny pattern in it, could be a light leak though I'm not sure as it was just the one frame from the one back. There is film in that back now but I might want to get that one done at least.

I am also seeing some marks not sure if they are kind of scraped in the back or if they are from the processing. I may take my next color rolls to my other lab and see. I'll post some examples to ask about.

Also I should have a 120 reel next week to process/ruin myself... and I can see which problems I can introduce myself.
 
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