Meter recommendations

[TheRook]

Until a year ago I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC for most of my metering. But now use an app on my iPhone almost exclusively. Same results, and more convenient. Plus, with the iPhone I have other apps available which are useful to photography - clock, timer, sunset/sunrise chart, notes, etc. My Gossen can't even tell me what time it is! So naturally, I find it strange that you are seeking to go in the opposite direction.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

I like meters and have several by Gossen and Sekonic. Previously, Bill mentioned Weston meters. Are the later ones considered functionally better than earlier models?

No. I personally would not buy any used Weston meter unless you know it has had its selenium cell replaced. I have handled an enormous number of Westons. I have not seen one that was still accurate. The later models, the Master IV and Master V, are virtually always dead. As in the needle won't move at all no matter how bright the light. The older Master, Master II and Master III usually still respond to light but have weak cells.

I have a Master V that I bought from Ian Patridge, a British man who had selenium cells custom made, since the originals are all used up now. He restores Westons and also repairs them. My Master V works great but it was fully restored with a new cell before Mr. Patridge sold it to me. They're not cheap, though. About $150.

http://ian-partridge.com/lightm.html

 

[Brook Hill]

(Until a year ago I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC for most of my metering. But now use an app on my iPhone almost exclusively. Same results, and more convenient. Plus, with the iPhone I have other apps available which are useful to photography - clock, timer, sunset/sunrise chart, notes, etc. My Gossen can't even tell me what time it is! So naturally, I find it strange that you are seeking to go in the opposite direction.)


I don't have an i phone and I don't want an i phone, why would I buy a device where I have to keep paying out every month to get a light meter? I can tell the time by my watch. If I want to make a telephone call I use my land line, so much cheaper.

Tony

 

[klownshed]

I'm not going to make any recommendations as I haven't tried enough stand alone meters, but I can share my experience.

I have a Gossen Digisix and Sekonic L398a studio deluxe ii.

I like both. I prefer using the Sekonic but the digisix is lighter and has a more convenient reflected mode. The Sekonic is a nice solid meter and doesn't require batteries but isn't good in very low light.

I also have an iPhone attachment that turns the iPhones into an incident meter. It works surprisingly well and agrees with my other meters.

I often forget my meters, they're usually in the 'wrong' bag. I always have my iPhone. I use the 'pocket light meter' app and it's just as good as the stand alone meters plus has the advantage of allowing me to take notes with a photo of the scene for each exposure which can be useful. As with any meter you need practice but you get an approximation of the exposure on the screen.

Smart phone meters can get a bad rap but I've never had a problem with mine.

I do like the external meters too though and enjoy using the Sekonic as its so solid - but it's also the most limited.

The digisix is very good. It works across a very good EV range and is small and light.

But the iPhone is surprisingly good as a light meter too.

 

[faberryman]

My old iPhone 4 (a hand me down from my daughter which I carry to appease my wife) doesn't hold a charge for very long, so if I use it as a light meter, I am very likely to find myself without both a light meter and a phone over the course of an afternoon. The batteries in my light meters last a really long time.

 

[TheRook]

I don't have an i phone and I don't want an i phone, why would I buy a device where I have to keep paying out every month to get a light meter? I can tell the time by my watch. If I want to make a telephone call I use my land line, so much cheaper.

My comment was intended for the OP who states to have an iphone, and has been using the metering app on it thus far.

 

[klownshed]

My comment was intended for the OP who states to have an iphone, and has been using the metering app on it thus far.

I think that was more than clear. It's patently obvious that a metering app for an iPhone is only useful if you have an iPhone. But it's definitely worth pointing out that an iPhone meter is more than good enough for many purposes.

The incident Meter dome attachment I have also works really well. If you don't already have an iPhone, step away from the attachment ;-)

 

[GregW]

My 2 cents. Avoid the Sekonic 328 if you come across one the head is fragile and the on off button is a problem. (i'm not the only one to notice this.)
If you find a weston ranger in ok condition, cheap, buy it and send it to Quality light metric to be recalibrated and have the battery type switched. Download the zone label and print it on sticky label and apply. It'll fit in your pocket easily with nothing protruding to break or poke you. It's an 18º narrow field, there is also an incident dome available tho scarce.
The Sekonic L398 is a wonderful meter apart from needing to fiddle with high low screens etc..
A leash is essential for most meters as dropping them is usually fatal. A fly fisherman's retractable leash will work nicely.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have several metes, in good light a Weston Master 6 works rather well, in dimmer light a Master 9, it is battery driven, when I'm in a zone frame of mind a Soilogar Spot meter, but lately when shooting LF or MF I take a 35mm with matrix metering, a Minolta 600 or 3Xi, with a 35 to 70 3.5 lens. In terms of buying if a Weston Master has a functioning cell and your shoot in good light will be a good buy.

 

[jgoody]

First, thanks for all the replies. Of course I am more confused than ever. To address the iPhone app issue I would prefer a dedicated meter - the signing on to the phone, and battery draining, both detract from the experience. The Luna Pro SBC seems to check all my boxes, low light sensitivity, incident and reflective metering, non digital display, but is a big object to add to the kit. I find I prefer incident metering most of the time - so that makes the 308 Sekonic a possibility, or the Gossen Digisix. Or maybe just live with the size of the Luna Pro SBC..... or.........

 

[destroya]

over the years I bought 2 meters because the deals were to good to pass up. one is a gossen ultra spot. a huge beast that performs its job very well once you master it. but the size makes it difficult for me to use as a casual carry on the fly meter, more for a pack it away in the case meter. if size matters for you and you want a spot meter, look at the Minolta or pentax. if it does not its a great meter

the second is a sekonic L-318 which is a reflective and incident meter, but it is not flash compatiple which was fine with me as I very seldomly shoot in the studio or with metered lighting. as such it is much cheaper to find used as its basicly an available light meter. if you dont plan on needing flash metering it can be found a lot cheaper used. I think I paid $20 for it in like new condition

 

[xya]

I have a collection of small old lightmeters, so I know a bit about them. there are really nice ones, but nothing compares to a digital meter. with small cameras I take the digisix, it's really tiny, very good and it sits in my travel bag in case of. with bigger cameras I take the sixtomat f2. very light, the simplest and handiest I know of, and it's reliable in all situations.

 

[mklw1954]

I use a Minolta Flash Meter III, which is excellent and as someone else mentioned Minolta meters have an excellent reputation. They're not made anymore so it would have to be used and they appear occasionally on Craigslist or KEH for about $100, including the flat reflected light attachment and the spherical incident light attachment. You have to put on the incident or reflected light attachment as they do not slide in and out of place as with some other meters. I use a 10 degree spot attachment, which are also occasionally available used for $40-50. A 5 degree spot attachment is available but for the Flash Meter III the aperture has to be reduced by 1.2 stops from the reading.

The Minolta Flash Meter IV and V are more expensive and I believe the reading when using the 5 degree spot attachment can be used directly without adjustment.

 

[Dan Fromm]

I have and use a LunaPro (= Lunasix 3) and a Weston Master V with Invercone. When mercury cells went away I bought the Gossen adapter that lets my LunaPro use two SR44s. I prefer the LunaPro, I find it easier to use than the Master V, which has a fussy dial. I can't recommend any meter than uses mercury cells (that includes my LunaPro) 'cos the alternative cells are short-lived (hearing aid batteries) and expensive (Wein cells, and they're not that long-lived either). If whatever the OP gets uses batteries it should use readily available modern ones.

I had a Gossen Pilot 2 until I lost it in Alaska. Tiny meter, worked well, might be better for the OP than either of my larger heavier ones. Selenium cell, no batteries needed.

I also have the original Minolta Flash meter. Lovely artifact, very useful but needs mercury cells. Arrgh!

Today I bought a Sekonic L-328, also called Digi Flash F. Cute thing, works, and when I compared it with my other two I found that they agree closely. Comforting, I think. They could all be wrong together. It is basically an incident meter, has an attachment for metering reflected light and another that makes in a 5 degree spottish meter. Also not recommended for someone who wants to travel light 'cos the attachments don't stow inside the meter. More stuff to carry and not lose, so probably not for the OP.

 

[frank]

I soldered 2 Schottky diodes into the power wire of my LunaPro/Lunasix 3 so I can use silver button cells.

 

[paul ron]

the sbc uses a regular 9v battery... no issues there.

 

[Groundloop]

Right now I own 3 meters: Minolta Spotmeter M, Sekonic L-358, Gossen Digisix. If I'm "Going Out Shooting" (especially with the 4x5), I'll carry the Minolta and the Sekonic, if I'm doing still life or portraits, it'll be the Sekonic, but if I'm just throwing a camera in the shoulder bag I take to work, the Digisix goes in along with it. The Digisix is tiny, so it has some operational quirks, but I find those inconvenient only when I'm using filters. I've not used one but the Gossen Sixtomat F2 looks interesting, under $200 USD new and it's the closest thing I've seen to a digital version of the Lunasix 3/Luna Pro, which I'd used a lot over the years.

 

[frank]

As I've said, I have a thing for meters. The 308 is the only one that can measure flash. The SBC with its big analogue dial is best in low light and the easiest to read. The little CV Meter ll can fit nicely on a camera's accessory shoe. I guess those 3 are my favourites for those reasons.

 

[jgoody]

This picture is really helpful in comparing the sizes of the meters. I've only handled the 308. I am assuming the Luna Pro SBC is a lot thicker than anything else.

 

[MattKing]

This picture is really helpful in comparing the sizes of the meters. I've only handled the 308. I am assuming the Luna Pro SBC is a lot thicker than anything else.

The LunaSix 3 is a bit thinner than the SBC, but not a lot thinner.

 

[frank]

This picture is really helpful in comparing the sizes of the meters. I've only handled the 308. I am assuming the Luna Pro SBC is a lot thicker than anything else.

Yes. It's the thickest of the meters.
Keep in mind that the angle of the shot makes the meters in the front row appear larger relative to the back row meters than they actually are.

 

[AgX]

the sbc uses a regular 9v battery... no issues there.

Sister-model Lunasix F/ Luna F Pro too.

 

[elcabezagrande]

My meter of choice for Bay 1 cameras. It kills two birds with one stone.

 

[DavidClapp]

I second the Sekonic 758 - it's taught me more about light than any of the other three I own. If you shoot landscapes, or views where incident metering is of little use, the 758 excels better than any other meter, due to its EV scale, dual ISO, midtone button and the ability to slide all your spot readings up and down the scale, so you can position tones correctly for the film you shoot. Expensive, but there's nothing so graphical, so easy to use in my opinion.

 

[Bill Burk]

No. I personally would not buy any used Weston meter unless you know it has had its selenium cell replaced. I have handled an enormous number of Westons. I have not seen one that was still accurate. The later models, the Master IV and Master V, are virtually always dead. As in the needle won't move at all no matter how bright the light. The older Master, Master II and Master III usually still respond to light but have weak cells.

I've had better luck. Only one Weston II that I owned was weak. The ones that I have now have strong cells, and only needed minor attention (I had to open the case and tighten some nuts and remove some debris from the magnet).