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MCB's microfilm thread

Cholentpot said:
Thanks! I didn't know there were microfilm fans out there.

Instamatic 60 with some micro. Taped a dark piece of film over the sensor to trick it to shoot slower.

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Another nice microfilm image from 16mm. I, too, use a spot of developed film over the light sensor to increase the exposure. 73, Terry
 
That’s strange. When I did experiments with HQ 1461 and H&W Control, I got extremely dense negatives, even at 100 ASA. I don’t have an explanation, but at the time I was doing some really foolish things in an attempt to create a stable version of H&W Control - so something may have gotten messed up there
 
Adding a small amount of KBr has let me use it at EI 20-25 successfully without base fog, I could probably find a time for EI 100 with it, although it would almost certainly be somewhat contrasty and the resolution would be not as good. Development time would also be very long.
 
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Shooting some 2468 film today, curious if it’s actually usable in camera. My experience with direct positive films in the past has been less than stellar unfortunately.
 
The only similar film I’ve tested is LPD4 - an extremely bizarre thing. Practically speaking, the film has almost no latitude, and the contrast is awful - midtones are basically nonexistent. On the other hand, it does have a very clean black. These are three frames, each one with a one-stop difference from the previous one…
 

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MCB18 said:
Shooting some 2468 film today, curious if it’s actually usable in camera. My experience with direct positive films in the past has been less than stellar unfortunately.
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It works, but 0.2 ISO almost means, on a bright, sunny day, I had to lean my pentax-SP and F2.0 lens against the railing to took some photos. Ah...
Overexposure followed by processing like POTA can slightly improve midtones, but this requires even more light.
 
I’ve heard EI 0.8 most places
 
MCB18 said:
I’ve heard EI 0.8 most places
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For me, at EI 0.8 it works, but the midtones are narrow, closer to pure black and pure white, but I can't rule out the possibility that this batch of film itself is aged.
 
Finally developed this film, it’s still good! I underexposed these though, oops…
 

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Congratulations! So this is what direct film looks like... Unlike typical underexposure, the developer here might have been too "soft," and the unexposed areas weren't too dark.
Last time I used 20g Anhydrous Sodium Sulfite, 1g Vitamin C, 1g Dimezone-S, in 1L water. This is a very large amount of Dimezone-S compared to regular PCTEA, to make unexposed areas dark, but more exposure is needed to keep exposure areas bright.
 
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