Manual focus body / lenses : a stupid question

[BrianShaw]

P.S. I always recommend plain matte or micro prism over split-image for the “ultimate “ focus check. Perhaps I don’t know what’s right or wrong…

 

[koraks]

I suggested tracing paper as a much easier tool to get the first rough check.

Yes, a suggestion that has problems attached to it as remarked above. This is nothing personal, nor intended to discourage you from offering further advice. It just so happens that both @bernard_L and I seem t have dealt with similar situations and are aware of the problems with this particular technique. And since there are ample alternatives that work better, I would suggest looking in those directions.

 

[kl122002]

Yes, a suggestion that has problems attached to it as remarked above. This is nothing personal, nor intended to discourage you from offering further advice. It just so happens that both @bernard_L and I seem t have dealt with similar situations and are aware of the problems with this particular technique. And since there are ample alternatives that work better, I would suggest looking in those directions.

P.S. I always recommend plain matte or micro prism over split-image for the “ultimate “ focus check. Perhaps I don’t know what’s right or wrong…

Both agree.

 

[Yaeli]

Sorry but I don't agree with that advice. Internet word-of-mouth?

Initially , if you looked back earlier, I said to check with focusing screen. But as I noticed the op is not familiar with it, so I suggested tracing paper as a much easier tool to get the first rough check.

I agree that the suggestion to use tracing paper is very unfortunate and I would not recommend it either. I don't see how that would work at all, and I've tried quite a few things!

Tracing paper or cellophane tape actually can work for a rough estimate. My experience, not “internet word-of-mouth”.

I have indeed heard it used (with scotch tape, not tracing paper) to roughly determine the "range" of focus on a Holga. We're not talking precision here It's just to get a rough estimate of what "mountain", "group" and "dudes" mean on the Holga lens in terms of distance. I don't think @kl122002 had precision in mind when he offered this advice. But in any case, I think we don't have to enter that debate, because there's a 99,9% chance that I simply made a mistake when I focused : either I missed focus altogether, or I wasn't stable enough when shooting, or both.

In this situation, it might be near impossible to use an approximation technique to really figure out why the OP can’t seem to focus reliably.

Most probably because he doesn't use his glasses, shoots with a wide aperture when it's not needed, and isn't stable enough when taking the shot or pressing the shutter I really think the "problem" is solved and we can let this post be buried now without any regret Thank you all for your comments and advice, it's been quite helpful !

 

[BrianShaw]

I’d love to write that we’ve all had the same experience as you, but that would cause the thread to go on and on and on. So let me write… me too, once.

Best way to bury the thread would be to post a few well-focused pictures. Few would probably comment on them. LOL

 

[foc]

When I studied photography (many, many) years ago, I was shown how to hold a 35mm camera and how to focus a manual lens.

The "secret" was to cup the lens between the thumb and forefinger and just move the finger and thumb to adjust focus. When the image appeared in focus in the viewfinder, I was told to focus just a little beyond it and then return to maximum shartness.

I had to practice this for a week until it became second nature. A few years later when I shot photos for the local papers, the practice never let me down. All images were sharp even when focusing in low light.

Maybe the OP could try something similar.

 

[Yaeli]

Best way to bury the thread would be to post a few well-focused pictures. Few would probably comment on them. LOL

I have some, as can be seen in my reply to @foc below

When I studied photography (many, many) years ago, I was shown how to hold a 35mm camera and how to focus a manual lens.

The "secret" was to cup the lens between the thumb and forefinger and just move the finger and thumb to adjust focus. When the image appeared in focus in the viewfinder, I was told to focus just a little beyond it and then return to maximum shartness.

I had to practice this for a week until it became second nature. A few years later when I shot photos for the local papers, the practice never let me down. All images were sharp even when focusing in low light.

Maybe the OP could try something similar.

This is very good advice, thanks ! It's roughly what I do : I use the middle finger and not the forefinger, and I tend to do more "back and forth" with the focus than just "focus beyond and return". I'll try that technique next time instead of "pumping"
I've had good results over the years, as seen below, but it was before my eyesight went down quite a bit. So maybe it's just a matter of wearing my glasses when I shoot, even if I don't like it

 

[Yaeli]

Greetings everyone,

So, I've made another test with my glasses on and... no, it's not gonna work. I can't see the whole image in the viewfinder because I can't get my eye close enough, and the variofocals really are a pain. So I'm gonna sell my OM1 and OM2 and do what @MattKing suggested : get an OM4 with the diopter built in.

Thanks again for your help !

 

[grain elevator]

Greetings everyone,

So, I've made another test with my glasses on and... no, it's not gonna work. I can't see the whole image in the viewfinder because I can't get my eye close enough, and the variofocals really are a pain. So I'm gonna sell my OM1 and OM2 and do what @MattKing suggested : get an OM4 with the diopter built in.

Thanks again for your help !

That's one way to solve it, but you can also get or make (from old glasses or get made by an optometrist) a diopter to use on the existing cameras. That should be far cheaper.

 

[neilt3]

That's one way to solve it, but you can also get or make (from old glasses or get made by an optometrist) a diopter to use on the existing cameras. That should be far cheaper.

As I suggested in #41 on the 9th May .
A simple solution to correct your vision threw the viewfinder.

 

[Yaeli]

That's one way to solve it, but you can also get or make (from old glasses or get made by an optometrist) a diopter to use on the existing cameras. That should be far cheaper.

As I suggested in #41 on the 9th May .
A simple solution to correct your vision threw the viewfinder.

I have thought about this solution too, but I don't see how to place a diopter on the OM1 or OM2. I know it sounds stupid but... do you just slide it inside the "viewfinder plastic hole" ??

 

[MattKing]

I have thought about this solution too, but I don't see how to place a diopter on the OM1 or OM2. I know it sounds stupid but... do you just slide it inside the "viewfinder plastic hole" ??

From the OM-2 manual:

The Diopter correcting lenses are used with the accessory Eyecup.

 

[Yaeli]

From the OM-2 manual:
View attachment 373175

The Diopter correcting lenses are used with the accessory Eyecup.

Thank you so much !!

Can be found on Ebay, and the diopter lenses too. I'll look into it.