Mamiya Paramender lever dimensions

[Sigurd Veronetta]

My type 2 Paramender has a broken elevating lever - the long end is snapped off - it was like this when I bought it.
I'm considering getting a replacement 3D printed so I'll have to create a CAD drawing and model first.
Would someone be so kind as to measure the length of their lever please?
For clarification, this is the style of lever:

Many thanks,

Sig.

 

[grat]

The tab is 38.75mm long from the base (the round bit around the shaft).

16.85 across at the widest part, 10.6 at the end.

The tab is 4.6 at the thinnest part (the end) and about 5.5 at the thickest part (just past the central shaft), although I'd probably make it the same thickness all the way out.

 

[Sigurd Veronetta]

The tab is 38.75mm long from the base (the round bit around the shaft).

16.85 across at the widest part, 10.6 at the end.

The tab is 4.6 at the thinnest part (the end) and about 5.5 at the thickest part (just past the central shaft), although I'd probably make it the same thickness all the way out.

Thank you Grat, that's just what I need.

Now I just have to master creating a 3D model!

Sig.

 

[grat]

If you're starting from scratch, there's a package called DesignSpark Mechanical out there. It's free for personal use, and there are a number of tutorials on getting going with it.

It's more designed for object prototyping, than being a generic full-functioned cad package like Fusion360.

 

[MattKing]

One caution - that lever requires a surprising amount of inherent strength. I've had one break on a Paramender 3 head, and it was difficult to repair in a way that the result was sufficiently strong.

 

[grat]

Yeah, I was considering the best way to print it. Probably best option is with the layer lines running the length of the entire lever. Have to use supports to deal with the cut-out on the top part of the lever.

I might extend the long part of the lever all the way back to the short end, just for additional strength.

Alternatively, and more difficult-- model a hollow cylinder running down the middle of the lever, into the round area. Pause printing when you're halfway through printing that tunnel, and insert a metal rod into the print, then resume the print.

.... or skip the lever entirely, use the set screw for leverage, and push your thumb against the bottom of the shaft to elevate the camera.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Wouldn't it to be easier and faster to just buy another Paraminder?

 

[grat]

Wouldn't it to be easier and faster to just buy another Paraminder?

For me? No. I have two 3D printers, and more than a little experience with 3D printing.

Paramenders aren't exactly unobtainable, but the last time I went hunting for one, it took a few weeks to find one that wasn't more expensive than the C33 I wanted to use it with.

 

[Sigurd Veronetta]

Well, I haven't got very far with making a new lever but it is still on my to-do list. Another option I'm looking at is substituting a different lever entirely, for example something from this page: https://www.wdscomponents.com/en-gb/machine-hardware/hand-levers/ball-handles/c-402 I quite like the look of the double leg ball handles.