A site with good basic instructions is
The Black & White Darkroom. You can learn most of what you need for basic B&W development there. Another option is to buy a book, such as Tom Grimm's
The Basic Darkroom Book. Most books will give more details than most Web sites, and sometimes having a printed reference is handy, but of course you'll probably have to pay to own a book. You might consider checking one out of your local library, though.
Note that different sources will recommend slightly different procedures, times, etc. Don't get too hung up on these differences. B&W film processing is surprisingly robust to differences in technique, so just pick one technique and use it. As you learn more, you'll learn why different sources recommend different techniques and be better able to decide whether it's worth changing your technique. One partial exception to this rule is the film development time, which must be matched to both film and developer. Most commercial developers come with time recommendations for common films, and most films come with time recommendations for common developers. If you can't find a time with your film or developer, you can check a site such as
the Massive Dev Chart, which lists times for most combinations. Even these times aren't absolute, though; you might adjust them up or down depending on your personal preferences, agitation style, and other factors.
As to chemistry, options will seem overwhelming when you first start out. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of commercial developers alone, and many choices for stop baths, fixers, hypo clearing agents, and wetting agents. (Those are the five main categories of chemicals used in B&W film processing, although you can omit some of these items with greater or lesser impact on how other steps are performed and on the quality of the final result.) My advice would be to pick a common general-purpose developer, such as Kodak D-76, Ilford ID-11 (which is nearly identical to D-76), Agfa (now A&O) Rodinal, Kodak XTOL, or Kodak HC-110, and then buy the rest of your chemistry set from the same manufacturer. That way you'll have a single source for authoritative instructions on using the chemistry, with greatly reduced chance of confusion because of conflicting instructions or finger-pointing by the manufacturers if something goes wrong and you ask for advice. Once you're familiar with the process and run out of one or more components, feel free to experiment with other products and to mix-and-match products from different manufacturers. Note that I'm not trying to say the specific developers I've mentioned are necessarily the best, and if something else seems appealing or is more readily available, feel free to use it. The products I've mentioned are all simply reasonable general-purpose products that are readily available (although Rodinal's availability is spotty at the moment because of Agfa's demise and the takeover of the Agfa chemistry line by A&O). If you locate a product and want to know if it's an appropriate one for a beginner to use, just post back and ask.
As to the rest of your workflow, scanning and printing digitally can be a good way to get from negative to print if you lack an enlarger and/or a darkroom in which to use it. This site is dedicated to analog techniques, though, so extensive discussion of the scanner route would be frowned upon here. You might be interested to know that it's possible to put together a fully functional darkroom, including an enlarger, in a surprisingly small space. Check
this site, which describes one setup of a makeshift darkroom in a bathroom. With a little thought, you should be able to put something together using a cart on wheels that you can move in and out of even a fairly small bathroom within a few minutes. I believe Kodak's got a PDF buried somewhere on their site with darkroom construction tips, covering everything from makeshift kitchen or bathroom darkrooms up to dedicated "dream" darkrooms. I don't have an exact URL, though.
