For m42 lenses, there's the M42 Lens Database (https://m42lens.com/): it's incomplete, but more extensive and systematic than anything else I've seen online; I guess by registering one should be able to add lenses to the database. Never seen anything like it for m42 bodies.Don't thank me. I had nothing to do with it, but it was obviously a lot of work -- and like most lists probably not 100% complete.
What i would like (and I'm sure others would like, as well), would be a similar list of M42 cameras and lenses. Those two lists would be even longer!
Probably not. The metering is more sophisticated. But that doesn’t necessarily equal better results.
Thanks, that sounds like a useful feature, though perhaps not the best way to learn how slide film behaves.Matrix metering uses a number of cells, each cell measures the light in a given cell then a chip with an algorithm figures out what you are shooting and adjusts the exposure to match a given pattern, such as back lite or side lighting. My understanding is in the days of film cameras Matrix was optimized for slides. All modern DSLR and Mirroless cameras use Matrix metering. Below is a link the Minolta 5 manual. But I would also look at a Nikon N80, N75, Canon EOS rebel, other than top of the line Pentax I would avoid Pentax as Pentax used plastic gears that strip out.
Minolta Maxxum 5 instruction manual, PDF user manual
Minolta Maxxum 5 instruction manualwww.butkus.org
Thanks, that sounds like a useful feature, though perhaps not the best way to learn how slide film behaves.
For m42 lenses, there's the M42 Lens Database (https://m42lens.com/): it's incomplete, but more extensive and systematic than anything else I've seen online; I
It’s not just “point at what you want and meter.
You need to point at two, three or more targets and do an intelligent assessment of what you want as middle.
If your subject does not have anything approaching middle gray and/or your spot meter has too large a spot, it becomes a matter of “guess what is middle gray in the scene” if you want to go by a single reading.Once one learns where to meter most scenes, it can be this simple.
Some scenes require this careful approach. Being able to identify them is the key.
I am a beginner, but I think I understand the theory, at least in theory. I get that the averaging meter might produce better results than the spot meter improperly used, but I don't think the former is a good way to learn. With the spot meter, I will know what I'm metering for, and if I err, next time (or the time after the next) I will know how to adjust (and of course it doesn't have to be a single metering). And if you use exposure lock (i.e. don't automatically trust the averaging meter, but make adjustment for where you believe should be middle grey), it's still basically the same technique as spot metering, but with a less precise instrument.If you don’t know about matrix metering, you might be a beginner. So maybe you are not really ready for spot metering?
It’s not just “point at what you want and meter.
You need to point at two, three or more targets and do an intelligent assessment of what you want as middle.
For example: Point at the middle of a Caucasian face and you will get underexposure of the whole scene. A totally black African face will give you overexposure.
Matrix metering (especially first gen) might misunderstand your intention with the scene and expose it wrong. Not that a big deal with negative film, but can be with reversal.
Do you think it's just the contacts in the battery compartment, or somewhere inside the camera? I seem to remember that the meter was rather jumpy when I tried to meter inside the house, but seemed more stable when I pointed out through the window -- perhaps it gets a better current with more light? Despite the DSX's heft, I rather liked its shutter and overall feel, so it'd be nice if I could make the meter work.I prefer the Mamiya's spot meter. But finding one that works is difficult these days.
The jumpy meter on the OP's is likely do to dirty contacts.
Do you think it's just the contacts in the battery compartment, or somewhere inside the camera? I seem to remember that the meter was rather jumpy when I tried to meter inside the house, but seemed more stable when I pointed out through the window -- perhaps it gets a better current with more light? Despite the DSX's heft, I rather liked its shutter and overall feel, so it'd be nice if I could make the meter work.
Thanks, yes, I definitely need to take it out for a walk on a bright day.If it meters correctly in good light, then your good to go.
CDS cells have poor low light sensitivity. The jumpiness could be related.
I am a beginner, but I think I understand the theory, at least in theory. I get that the averaging meter might produce better results than the spot meter improperly used, but I don't think the former is a good way to learn. With the spot meter, I will know what I'm metering for, and if I err, next time (or the time after the next) I will know how to adjust (and of course it doesn't have to be a single metering). And if you use exposure lock (i.e. don't automatically trust the averaging meter, but make adjustment for where you believe should be middle grey), it's still basically the same technique as spot metering, but with a less precise instrument.
I'm late to reply here, but (as someone who started shooting film Back In The Day, including lots of slide film) I would disagree -- I actually think a spot meter is a *bad* idea for slide film. What are you going to "spot" on? You need to find the element in your scene that approximates middle gray, and if you don't get that right, your exposure will be off -- and with slide film that means the lightness of the photo won't be right. (Unless you're scanning it, in which case the scanner takes its own exposure so it doesn't matter if your exposure isn't perfect -- and if you're doing that, you may as well save money and shoot color negative film.)For shooting slide film, an accurate and reliable spot (or rather partial) meter seems to be a top priority.
Nifty camera -- I inherited my uncle's 1000 DTL -- but if the meter doesn't work, they are apparently difficult to repair, or so was told to me by a Mamiya repair guy.Second, there are the Mamiyas (DTL, DSX): I got a DSX almost for free, but haven't tried it so far (its meter behaves weirdly)
If you were to lose your M42 and spot meter requirements, I'd also consider the Pentax KM, which is basically a Spotmatic F with a K-mount. It was "decontented" to become the K1000.4) preferably metal and mechanical; (5) cheap. I'll be hugely grateful for any recommendations!
I'm late to reply here, but (as someone who started shooting film Back In The Day, including lots of slide film) I would disagree -- I actually think a spot meter is a *bad* idea for slide film. What are you going to "spot" on? You need to find the element in your scene that approximates middle gray, and if you don't get that right, your exposure will be off -- and with slide film that means the lightness of the photo won't be right. (Unless you're scanning it, in which case the scanner takes its own exposure so it doesn't matter if your exposure isn't perfect -- and if you're doing that, you may as well save money and shoot color negative film.)
I think what you want is a center-weighted averaging meter, which evaluates the whole scene and grants a little more importance to what's in the middle. It's a much better method of metering, and the good news is that most cameras (including most M42s) have it. I shot slides for quite a while with two center-weight cameras (Pentax KX and MG) and did just fine, though I did sometimes bracket to cover my bases (especially at night).
You mentioned learning about metering, and what you need to learn is what situations will throw the meter off -- things like a very dark subject (say, a dark-blue car) or a very light one (a snowy scene). You have to look at what exposure your meter is recommending and think "Is this right?" There are a few easy checks to learn (which, unfortunately, I did not learn until I went back to film in 2019). One is the Sunny 16 rule -- it's a great guideline. (One of my favorite rail photographers, Don Ball Jr., never used a meter; he just looked at the lighting conditions -- what we now call Sunny 16.) Another is to meter off grass that is in the same light as your scene. Grass is pretty close to middle gray. If you have a fair complexion, you can meter off your arm. It's not perfect middle gray (and differs based on your skin tone), but it can tell you if the meter's way off.
Matrix metering is a great idea. Matrix divides the scene up into bits, meters each one, and decides what bits it should pay most attention to. Problem is, you will generally find it in cameras made in the late 1980s-90s. They are very automated and probably won't give you what you want.
Anyway -- spot metering is a red herring. Center-weighted is much, much better for what you want to do.
And -- if I may ask -- why shoot slides? Back in the day, we loved slide film for the way the colors exploded off the screen, and shooting it was a bit of a he-man macho thing because you had to nail the exposure. Now that we scan most film, I think scans of negs and slides look equally good on screen. From my own photos, here and here are scans of slides and here and here are scans of color neg; I think they both pop equally on screen. (You can see the film types at the links; note the night shot is cheap drugstore film.)
If you are trying to learn to get your exposure right, I would suggest a cheaper alternative: SHoot B&W and learn to read the negative density, which isn't difficult to do. That's the problem with color neg: That strong orange cast makes it hard to read the negative.
Honestly I'd still shoot color slide if it wasn't so flippin' expensive. That's why most of my color is digital and I do most of my film in B&W.
Nifty camera -- I inherited my uncle's 1000 DTL -- but if the meter doesn't work, they are apparently difficult to repair, or so was told to me by a Mamiya repair guy.
If you were to lose your M42 and spot meter requirements, I'd also consider the Pentax KM, which is basically a Spotmatic F with a K-mount. It was "decontented" to become the K1000.
HTH!
Aaron
Thanks! 1/2000 top speed could indeed be useful -- will look into this one.
I actually think a spot meter is a *bad* idea for slide film.
HTH!
Aaron
I'm confused.
...you would never ever use the latter for slides?
seems rather easier to do with a spot meter. ... (though I'm still waiting to see the results)
I have both the original CE and the CE-3: the CE is too heavy for my liking, but I keep it for the sake of its top speed of 1/2000; the CE-3 is nice overall (as is the CM-3), but its shutter release button puts up too much resistance, which I think contributes to camera shake.No spot metering but should meet most of your other requirements PLUS aperture priority auto exposure with M42 mount lenses:
I have a CE II, but it is a tank of a camera. The 3 is 620 grams.
I just bought a Mamiya 1000dtl + 50mm f2 from the original owner.
This camera was made the year I was born.
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