LPL 7700 transformer issues

Jerevan

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The reason I am wondering is that I may have to source another transformer for the LPL 7700 colour enlarger. If they still are in business, does anyone know of a european supplier?

I just got it, tried it out with the transformer and nothing happens - it struck me, that even if the bulb is burnt, shouldn't the small lights for the Dichroic filtration work?

EDIT: I was a bit sloppy in the wording above - the enlarger does not come with an original transformer. The transformer supplied has no on/off switch and it is likely custom built. It has two fuses, one 10 A (primary) and one 2 A (secondary). As far as I can ascertain checking it today, the 10 A fuse seems blown (I am approaching the limits of my electronic knowledge here), while the secondary seems fine. The 10 A is a ceramic fuse while the 2 A has a glass encasing if that matters.

On it (see photo) there is a sticker that says (I guess) that the output ("Uaus") is 11.4 V, while max ("Pmax") is 114 W.
 

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AgX

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Lumiere Shop state to have access to all accessories.
 
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Jerevan

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I sent off a query to Lumière and then we'll see ... keeping my thumbs.
 

BMbikerider

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New LPL enlargers are still being sold in UK
 

AgX

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LPL is still in business and they still list darkroom stuff including enlargers (4x5 and 6x7).
 

StepheKoontz

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On my besseler color head, the bulbs for the enlarger also illuminate the dials. When the main bulbs are off, the dials don't light up. I wouldn't assume the bulbs are good from what you posted. Also, mine didn't come with a transformer, I just got a generic 25V transformer with enough amp capacity for the bulbs.
 

voceumana

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The LPL power supply sold in the USA contains a transformer (line voltage to 12 VAC), a switch, and the connector to the enlarger cord. The only two things likely to fail are the switch and the connector. If you have a voltmeter, you can check for output voltage at the connector--if there is none, you could try to short the switch (do so with the mains disconnected) to see if the switch has failed.

If the switch has failed, and you short it out, you can turn the enlarger on and off with a darkroom timer.

If the connector has failed, you could replace it with a suitable connection method. I plan to change my connector on the power supply for mine with a barrier terminal strip, as I do not care for the connector that LPL used for an 8 Amp load.
 
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Jerevan

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I have amended the original post and updated the thread title accordingly. It seems to be going to be a bit of a ride, this. Well, one learns something every day.

In addition, the bulb needs to be changed out - looking at it, it says "12 V JER100W" - what would then fit correctly?
 
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Jerevan

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I got an answer back from Lumière: no transformers available for the enlarger (at least not from them, anyways).

As for the fuse, I think it is named "Feinsicherung" locally, but where to find these? I assume they should be for 12 V, 10 A? Or is it 220 V, 10 A since it goes into the box?
 

ozphoto

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I've contacted LPL Japan on several occasions and they have always been super helpful. Not sure how prices are in the EU, but even with postage, buying stuff from them is a darn sight cheaper than buying through our supplier in Australia.

Our local supplier is useless - they really don't care about parts at all (new obviously provides more profit and less work!), once I explained the difficulties I was having with them, LPL JP was more than happy to help me out.

Chances are they'll direct you to their local supplier quite happily, but I'd bet they'd also help out if said supplier wasn't a feasible solution for you.
 

bdial

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The fuses are likely not specialty items (though some are), a shop dealing with electronics, or automotive parts, or a general hardware store may have equivalents. Sometimes fuses fail for no particular reason, so replacing them is a good first step, but if the replacement fails immediately, then your power supply has some internal fault. A good electronics shop could probably repair it.
As mentioned, KHB in Canada is also a good source for parts and service. I've found them to be very responsive, and they keep a good stock of parts.
The gallery I volunteer with needed a couple of the little bulbs for the display a couple of months back, which KHB was able to supply very quickly.
 

markbau

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Totally agree, the Australian supplier is less than useless. When I moved back to Australia from the US I had an LPL enlarger and wanted a power supply for 240V, the local supplier told me they would have to order 6 and the cost would be over $1000!!! More recently I wanted to buy a Patterson print washer basket. (A product easily purchased from Patterson if you live in the UK, they wont deal with overseas customers) Even though the biggest photo retailer in Melbourne has tried to source the basket they have no luck because of the Australian agent/importer. I can't believe how some companies stay in business with such poor customer service.
 

Ian C

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Regarding post #1:

“Even if the bulb is burnt, shouldn't the small lights for the Dichroic filtration work?”

Yes. It’s a separate screw-base lamp. See page 13 of the manual (page 15 of the following PDF) part 5281-01 Illumination Lamp.

When I switch the power to the “ON” position on the power supply of my Saunders/LPL 7700 with the main lamp off, the filter dials are illuminated. They stay lit when the main lamp is engaged in the FOCUS or EXPOSE modes on the separate timer. The dichroic head on mine is the same as the one in the following LPL 7700 manual, except that mine is labeled Saunders/LPL DXL 670.

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/lpl/LPL_7700.pdf

The main lamp is the 12-volt 100-watt EFP.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/2341253-Eiko-Wiko-Bulb-EFP-12V-100W
 
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Jerevan

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I've contacted LPL Japan on several occasions and they have always been super helpful.

Chances are they'll direct you to their local supplier quite happily, but I'd bet they'd also help out if said supplier wasn't a feasible solution for you.

Thanks, that sounds like an idea! ... but I don't know even where to start to find an email address on their homepage, since my japanese is non-existent.

KHB got back to me promptly but it would cost me something like 450-500 euros (y'know shipping and customs fees) so I will have to try other stuff first, like locating the right fuses.
 

voceumana

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The KHB Fototografix web site has an image of the 7700 power supply--the one for US/Canada voltage (120 Mains) shows no fuse, consistent with the supply I have; the one for 220 V mains (Europe) has a fuse, and it is listed at 1A (as shown on the front image of the power supply). This is consistent with having the fuse on the mains supply voltage side of the transformer rather than on the secondary (12V) side. Usually this type of fuse is a 5 x 20 mm glass cartridge fuse. It should be readily available at any electronics store or even, perhaps, an automobile parts store. It might be a "slow-blow" type.
 

AgX

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As for the fuse, I think it is named "Feinsicherung" locally, but where to find these? I assume they should be for 12 V, 10 A? Or is it 220 V, 10 A since it goes into the box?

These are likely of the type "glasstube fuse"
https://www.google.de/search?q=glas...2r_jAhWRy6QKHU_EBVYQ_AUIESgB&biw=1024&bih=546

Typical dimensions are 5x20mm, max. current and sensitivity vary though.
12V or 220V, it doesn't matter, as they stand both...

Get exactly the type indicated on the casing (otherwise, as you find installed).
You find them at any electronics dealer, some versions even at a DIY store.
 

voceumana

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I should mention that fuses are generally rated for a maximum voltage, and any lower voltage is OK--the maximum voltage is based on dielectric strength (breakdown because of voltage) and insulation resistance. Most glass cartridge fuses are rated for 250 V max, so it really is the current rating that is important to match.
 

John Koehrer

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Sometimes fuses fail for no particular reason, so replacing them is a good first step, but if the replacement fails immediately, then your power supply has some internal fault. A good electronics shop could probably repair it.
I think this is a good option.
 

AgX

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Sometimes fuses fail for no particular reason, so replacing them is a good first step.
First time I read such, if you mean replacing a still conductive fuse.

The only problem I experienced is contacts corrosion in car fuses located in a box in the engine compartment. These were torpedo shaped fuses in brass holders.
 
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Jerevan

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Thanks! I'll see what I can source locally at first. The 10 A fuse had the metal cap fall off on one side, underneath it is brown (possibly from corrosion) - the 2 A looks fine, but I'll change out both.
 

AgX

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If you still got a tv/audio repair shop in town you should try there. The hobby electronics retail shops have vanished from german towns.
 

bdial

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...The hobby electronics retail shops have vanished from german towns.

Sadly, they have vanished from our towns too.
Up above, I was saying that occasionally a fuse has failed because of some cause that doesn't repeat itself. So simply replacing the fuse puts things to working again. I've had it happen on more than one occasion, and in many different devices. Perhaps the failure is the fuse itself. In any case, it looks like Jerevan has a defective fuse, and hopefully that is the only issue that needs to be resolved.
@Jerevan, there is a hardware shop near where I live that may well have a 10a glass tube fuse, I'll check and see if they have one. As a last resort, I can fetch up one there for you (if they have it), if you can't find it locally. Good luck in your quest.
 
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