Looking for buying advice for Hasselblad

[RalphLambrecht]

I have always wanted one and now I can't get it out of my head. I have been looking for one in my price range of $850 but most are more. What should I be checking if I do find one? Should I stay away from the 500C?

I went with a 501c and never regretted it.

 

[ruilourosa]

i regret not buying that 40mm cf fle and 350 that passed under my nose a few years ago for little money... i also had the chance to buy another 501cm but it was yellow...

 

[film_man]

i regret not buying that 40mm cf fle and 350 that passed under my nose a few years ago for little money... i also had the chance to buy another 501cm but it was yellow...

I always wanted one of the coloured ones but they are impossible to find *and* ridiculously expensive.

 

[wjlapier]

Recently I purchased a 500c but all pieces by themselves. Total spent was about around $650. The body has some usage marks in the leatherette mainly around the WLF area. The back is one of the original versions with the peep hole. The lens was purchased from Roberts with a 6 month warranty--but it was listed in 96% condition--it is super clean and works perfectly. Each time I purchased something I asked plenty of questions and crossed my fingers they arrived as advertised. So far, around 8 rolls through it and its running great. It's a camera to use for fun. If it jams like some folks think is possible I'll think about sending it in.

 

[brent8927]

Recently I purchased a 500c but all pieces by themselves. Total spent was about around $650. The body has some usage marks in the leatherette mainly around the WLF area. The back is one of the original versions with the peep hole. The lens was purchased from Roberts with a 6 month warranty--but it was listed in 96% condition--it is super clean and works perfectly. Each time I purchased something I asked plenty of questions and crossed my fingers they arrived as advertised. So far, around 8 rolls through it and its running great. It's a camera to use for fun. If it jams like some folks think is possible I'll think about sending it in.

Good decision--the lens is the most important part of your kit. Backs can be a weak area as many sellers don't know how to (or don't want to) check for light leaks, but that's typically fairly easy to repair (new light seal--you can even buy them on ebay and replace yourself).

I have had only one of the "famous" Hasselblad jams, and it was when I was using extension tubes. It was extremely easy to unjam--I don't think I even needed to use the unjam tool. (I do own one, just because if you have to unjam the camera while the lens is attached, the tool decreases the risk of slipping and hitting the rear element of your lens).

Hasselblads are actually quite rugged--I take mine hiking all the time, and have it dangling from my neck when scrambling over rocks/etc (I try not to let it bounce against the granite obviously). The only other jam I ever experienced in my 16 years of shooting was when used an after-market remote shutter release, which had a pretty powerful solenoid and it dislodged something that de-synchronized the winding mechanism. I sent the camera in for repair--$80 fixed it. I did get a CLA as well, since my camera is from the mid 90's and I figured I may as well get a CLA...

 

[pressureworld]

I own a 501C and I love it. Changing the film is easy and it's really a nice camera. The only thing I wasn't crazy about was the waist level finder. I picked up a PM45 (w/ built in diopter) and everything has been great. I shoot in environments with a lot of water and the camera has held up well. Accessory's are very expensive so choose a kit that has what you want already in it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I own a 501C and I love it. Changing the film is easy and it's really a nice camera. The only thing I wasn't crazy about was the waist level finder. I picked up a PM45 (w/ built in diopter) and everything has been great. I shoot in environments with a lot of water and the camera has held up well. Accessory's are very expensive so choose a kit that has what you want already in it.

I have been using the 45 degrees PME from the first day.

 

[GLS]

If you go with an older model, I would *highly* recommend budgeting for an Acute Matte D screen too, as they are incredibly bright and clear. That screen (along with the gliding mirror) is one of the major reasons I went with a 501CM. The viewfinder in my Pentax 6x7 MLU is very dim in comparison, and is quite difficult to precisely focus with using slower lenses and/or in dark conditions. Not so with the Acute Matte D. Mine also has a central rangefinder patch, which is a real boon for achieving critical focus.

Secondly, although it makes the whole setup heavier and bulkier I would also recommend a prism of some kind, as it really helps with critical composition & focus, and also protects the focusing screen (I personally never got on very well with the WLF). A 45 degree prism is most useful hand-held; I went with the unmetered PM45 as it is far cheaper than the metered PME45 (and I use a Sekonic L-758 DR to meter anyway). A 90 degree prism is generally better on a tripod.

 

[guangong]

After reading some of the earlier replies to this thread I realize that my life has been charmed. Not counting my very early disastrous 1000F which turned me on to Rollei TLR and Super Ikonta B for MF, my next Hasselblad was 2000FCM bought in 1982-83, which has never jammed. Couple years ago bought a 500cm from KEH as backup...also no jams.
As for viewfinders, I use three, depending on how much I want to carry. Usually, for convenience, just the folding finder, sometimes either 45 degree or chimney. Chimney finder makes excellent lupe for viewing slides and negatives.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If you go with an older model, I would *highly* recommend budgeting for an Acute Matte D screen too, as they are incredibly bright and clear. That screen (along with the gliding mirror) is one of the major reasons I went with a 501CM. The viewfinder in my Pentax 6x7 MLU is very dim in comparison, and is quite difficult to precisely focus with using slower lenses and/or in dark conditions. Not so with the Acute Matte D. Mine also has a central rangefinder patch, which is a real boon for achieving critical focus.

Secondly, although it makes the whole setup heavier and bulkier I would also recommend a prism of some kind, as it really helps with critical composition & focus, and also protects the focusing screen (I personally never got on very well with the WLF). A 45 degree prism is most useful hand-held; I went with the unmetered PM45 as it is far cheaper than the metered PME45 (and I use a Sekonic L-758 DR to meter anyway). A 90 degree prism is generally better on a tripod.

I agree about the Acute Matte D screen.

I use the metered 45 degree PME prism which I use with my 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, 250mm and 500mm lenses. The 500mm lens and the 500mm lens with the 2XE extender work well with the 45 degree prism on a tripod. In fact I have never felt the need for the 90 degree prism and most will agree that the 45 degree prism is better on the tripod than the 90 degree prism. The 90 degree prism interferes with some film backs including the Polaroid and with some of the digital backs.

The the metered 45 degree PME prism has a superb light meter that works in low light level situations. I have not had a bad exposure with it in the over ten years that I have owned it.











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[GLS]

In fact I have never felt the need for the 90 degree prism and most will agree that the 45 degree prism is better on the tripod than the 90 degree prism. The 90 degree prism interferes with some film backs including the Polaroid and with some of the digital backs.

To some extent it depends on the maximum height of your tripod, and consequent ease of use. I chose my tripod such that a normal, 90 degree viewfinder would be arranged pretty much exactly at eye level when the tripod is at full extension. However with my PM45 viewfinder on the Hasselblad this puts the eyepiece too high to look into (unless the camera happens to be angled upwards). Of course I can shorten the tripod legs, but this takes longer to do in an even fashion than just extending them fully. A minor complaint to be sure, but worth mentioning.

 

[jerrybro]

PME45 with an Acute Matte D is a very nice combination. While it is nice to be able add a metered prism and hand grip to the camera it does change the camera into to a heavy package approaching Speed Graphic weight. OK, maybe a little exaggeration, but you get the point.

 

[Sirius Glass]

PME45 with an Acute Matte D is a very nice combination. While it is nice to be able add a metered prism and hand grip to the camera it does change the camera into to a heavy package approaching Speed Graphic weight. OK, maybe a little exaggeration, but you get the point.

Adding the prism does significantly raise the weight, bit it gets rid of the left right reversal and adds a great light meter in one fell swoop. That is just part of my physical fitness regime.





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