The manual thumb operated grip/winder for the 645e is reportedly compatible with some of the older Mamiya 645 bodies.
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The manual thumb operated grip/winder for the 645e is reportedly compatible with some of the older Mamiya 645 bodies.
RezaLoghme
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If I understand correctly, the OP has some issues with the camera body. If the lenses are fine, why recommend a new system? Having the body fixed and CLA'd is probably the safest option, in many ways.
About the 553ELX:
I had one. It is a lovely, yet somewhat bizarre camera. And the youngest and probably most reliable of the motor-driven Hasselblads. I bought it when they were just several hundred EUR (body only). Compared to its predecessors it is using standard 1.5V batteries instead of Hasselblads proprietary accus. Yes, there are workarounds for the older models. 553 ELX is just "as it should have been from the beginning".
It is quite small for a MF SLR with motor, then again it is quite hefty. You can use it hand-held and then again it will be getting on your nerves quickly. The novelty of schlepping it around for street photography quickly wore off. I also had the metered prism and it added another hefty weight to the already heavy camera. I would say that a 553ELX with prisma and a 150mm lens is a perfect portrait / model kit for studio use, if that is what you want to do.
All lenses have their own shutter that needs to be looked after. Once you have your Hasselblad system up and running, it is very rewarding. But it is an emotional choice. A motor-less body is more expensive (but not much more, now that 553 prices picked up), but easier to carry, if that matters.
Due to Hasselblad's modular architecture (even the winding knob can be exchanged, there are several different versions of the focussing screen and so on), you might be getting sucked into never-ending loop of upgrading, exchanging, fixing components. I have been through it.
Keep in mind that most Hasselblads are naked, fully manual cameras, unlike your quite modern Pentax 645. Is that what you are looking for?
I made the mistake of buying cameras based on other people's recommendations instead of going to a shop and playing with lenses and bodies. Of course, that requires some effort (travel, or mail order with the option to return the camera).
One "mistake" was that I did not realize that the original focus screens are quite dark, and if you combine them with, say, a 4/150mm lens (great for portraits), that makes a sunny-day-only camera which is very difficult to focus. Even the 2.8/80 standard focal lens might surprise you when mounted on a HB with an older focussing screen, hence the Acute Matte (or any modern aftermarket) is key. Otherwise you will be disappointed.
I had 3 lenses (50/80/150), initially starting with the old silver ones, then the black ones with the scalloped focus rings and then the ones with the fine knurled / rubber covered focus rings. I found the older lenses uncomfortable to handle; the scalloped focus rings have a long throw and somehow cut into my finger. I simply did not gel with them. So, buyer beware and try before you buy.
About some of the recommendations here:
They all come from their owners' perspectives. A Mamiya Press is very big, very niche and very old (the final model was discontinued in the 1970s), and a rangefinder, not what you asked for. Mamiya 6 is a rangefinder, much younger, and also probably exceeding your budget. TLRs usually have fixed lenses and viewfinders (yes, there are few exceptions and workarounds). Your 645 has a prism; unless you are interested in the quite different WLF experience, its not what you want. Of all TLRs, the Roleiflex GX has a built-in TTL exposure meter, and is likely to exceed your budget. Bronicas are quite niche, with some known quirks, and approaching Hasselblad $$$ by now. Your 645 is probably one of the most modern MF SLRs (it was launched around the same time when the 553ELX was discontinued), and most of the suggested options would be quite a big step back in time and functionality.
To wrap it up: if you love your Pentax, just solve the body issue and keep on shooting. Or if you are hungry for something entirely new, think about what you want from it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P.S.: If you want to buy a Hasselblad, I would be happy to "review" the offers you are looking at - often sellers create a "Franken-blad" our of components from different eras, e.g. old waist-level finders on newer bodies etc. I can help to you decypher what you are actually looking at.
An example of a kit that I would buy (I have no relationship with the seller btw):
fotohandeldelfshaven.nl
The lens and WLF are from the same era as the body, and the seller mentiones the build year of each component (all are coded and you can easily find out when a body, lens or film back was made). The seller explicitly mentioned the desirable (and period) bright Acute-matte focussing screen (often sold separately). From my own experience, 553 bodies sell for 400-600 EUR (depending on condition and history), 80mm lenses usually go for 600-900 EUR, and a A12 film back is 150-250 EUR. Add some margin for the dealer (for warranty and all) and you end up where we are here. Can you save some $$$? Sure, by buying from a private seller. It that like for like? Well, unless they offer some sort of return policy, otherwise no.
I would want a chrome example, not a black one, but that is just my personal preference.
Let's look at another offer:
kamerastore.com
Period-correct WLF with plastic button, but old-style darker focussing screen. Upgrading to Acute-Matte is 200-350 EUR. Add a A12 magazine (150-250 EUR) and a lens of your choice (modern 80mm most expensive, chrome 150mm is cheapest).
That dealer also has an older "EL" (minus "M" which means you cannot easily exchange the focussing screen). Probably the least desired (not "desirable") Hasselblad body, reflected in its price.
This one looks good (seller is in NL though):
Here is another good example, unfortunately the auction is already over, but it gives you an idea "what good looks like":
www.leitz-auction.com
I also looked at the offers on KEH's website. It is difficult for me to judge them correctly, as the photos do not seem to resemble the actual camera on offer. But by now you already know that to the "naked" body (excluding WLF and focussing screen and film back) you have to add a lot of components.
Bottom line:
The 553ELX is a very special camera. Niche, yes. At its time, it was one of the expensive offerings in Hasselblad's product range. Looking at a 1996 price list, it was 40% more than the 503 body! It is a charming camera with a somewhat limited use case.
I would buy a complete kit from a reputable seller (with a decent return policy), and go for a late model (e.g. 553ELX) which has all the correct accoutrements.
About the 553ELX:
I had one. It is a lovely, yet somewhat bizarre camera. And the youngest and probably most reliable of the motor-driven Hasselblads. I bought it when they were just several hundred EUR (body only). Compared to its predecessors it is using standard 1.5V batteries instead of Hasselblads proprietary accus. Yes, there are workarounds for the older models. 553 ELX is just "as it should have been from the beginning".
It is quite small for a MF SLR with motor, then again it is quite hefty. You can use it hand-held and then again it will be getting on your nerves quickly. The novelty of schlepping it around for street photography quickly wore off. I also had the metered prism and it added another hefty weight to the already heavy camera. I would say that a 553ELX with prisma and a 150mm lens is a perfect portrait / model kit for studio use, if that is what you want to do.
All lenses have their own shutter that needs to be looked after. Once you have your Hasselblad system up and running, it is very rewarding. But it is an emotional choice. A motor-less body is more expensive (but not much more, now that 553 prices picked up), but easier to carry, if that matters.
Due to Hasselblad's modular architecture (even the winding knob can be exchanged, there are several different versions of the focussing screen and so on), you might be getting sucked into never-ending loop of upgrading, exchanging, fixing components. I have been through it.
Keep in mind that most Hasselblads are naked, fully manual cameras, unlike your quite modern Pentax 645. Is that what you are looking for?
I made the mistake of buying cameras based on other people's recommendations instead of going to a shop and playing with lenses and bodies. Of course, that requires some effort (travel, or mail order with the option to return the camera).
One "mistake" was that I did not realize that the original focus screens are quite dark, and if you combine them with, say, a 4/150mm lens (great for portraits), that makes a sunny-day-only camera which is very difficult to focus. Even the 2.8/80 standard focal lens might surprise you when mounted on a HB with an older focussing screen, hence the Acute Matte (or any modern aftermarket) is key. Otherwise you will be disappointed.
I had 3 lenses (50/80/150), initially starting with the old silver ones, then the black ones with the scalloped focus rings and then the ones with the fine knurled / rubber covered focus rings. I found the older lenses uncomfortable to handle; the scalloped focus rings have a long throw and somehow cut into my finger. I simply did not gel with them. So, buyer beware and try before you buy.
About some of the recommendations here:
They all come from their owners' perspectives. A Mamiya Press is very big, very niche and very old (the final model was discontinued in the 1970s), and a rangefinder, not what you asked for. Mamiya 6 is a rangefinder, much younger, and also probably exceeding your budget. TLRs usually have fixed lenses and viewfinders (yes, there are few exceptions and workarounds). Your 645 has a prism; unless you are interested in the quite different WLF experience, its not what you want. Of all TLRs, the Roleiflex GX has a built-in TTL exposure meter, and is likely to exceed your budget. Bronicas are quite niche, with some known quirks, and approaching Hasselblad $$$ by now. Your 645 is probably one of the most modern MF SLRs (it was launched around the same time when the 553ELX was discontinued), and most of the suggested options would be quite a big step back in time and functionality.
To wrap it up: if you love your Pentax, just solve the body issue and keep on shooting. Or if you are hungry for something entirely new, think about what you want from it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P.S.: If you want to buy a Hasselblad, I would be happy to "review" the offers you are looking at - often sellers create a "Franken-blad" our of components from different eras, e.g. old waist-level finders on newer bodies etc. I can help to you decypher what you are actually looking at.
An example of a kit that I would buy (I have no relationship with the seller btw):
Hasselblad 553ELX black + CF Planar 80mm f/2.8 T*+ WLF + A12 back - Fotohandel Delfshaven / MK Optics
Inkoop / Verkoop. - Vintage camera store in Delft - Good working Hasselblad 553ELX kit with CF Planar 80mm f/2.8 T* and a A12 back, fully in black finish. The camera kit is in excellent shape with just some light wear. The camera body is perfectly working and comes with a Acute matte focusing...
fotohandeldelfshaven.nl
The lens and WLF are from the same era as the body, and the seller mentiones the build year of each component (all are coded and you can easily find out when a body, lens or film back was made). The seller explicitly mentioned the desirable (and period) bright Acute-matte focussing screen (often sold separately). From my own experience, 553 bodies sell for 400-600 EUR (depending on condition and history), 80mm lenses usually go for 600-900 EUR, and a A12 film back is 150-250 EUR. Add some margin for the dealer (for warranty and all) and you end up where we are here. Can you save some $$$? Sure, by buying from a private seller. It that like for like? Well, unless they offer some sort of return policy, otherwise no.
I would want a chrome example, not a black one, but that is just my personal preference.
Let's look at another offer:
Hasselblad 553ELX (Chrome, 10067) + Waist Level Finder (New / Chrome,
Hasselblad 553ELX (Chrome, 10067) Manual focus 6x6 V-mount medium format SLR camera introduced by Hasselblad in 1989. This is an improved version of the ELX with better internal reflection coating (palpas), 5 AA batteries as a power source, and an acute matte focusing screen. Metal body...
kamerastore.com
Period-correct WLF with plastic button, but old-style darker focussing screen. Upgrading to Acute-Matte is 200-350 EUR. Add a A12 magazine (150-250 EUR) and a lens of your choice (modern 80mm most expensive, chrome 150mm is cheapest).
That dealer also has an older "EL" (minus "M" which means you cannot easily exchange the focussing screen). Probably the least desired (not "desirable") Hasselblad body, reflected in its price.
This one looks good (seller is in NL though):
Hasselblad 553 ELX + cassette
De Hasselblad 553 ELX met cassette is een topklasse mediumformaat filmcamera. Met zijn betrouwbare elektronische sluitertijden (tot 1/500 seconde) en geavanceerde belichtingsfuncties, kunt u uw fotografie naar een hoger niveau tillen. Inbegrepen is een handige opbergcassette voor gemakkelijke...
www.profotica.nl
Here is another good example, unfortunately the auction is already over, but it gives you an idea "what good looks like":
Hasselblad 553ELX chrome | AI_11_16305
with acute-matte D screen and magazine A12 30074 no.30ET4446, connecting cord LK150 and release cord FK300, all new in original maker's boxes, brochure
www.leitz-auction.com
I also looked at the offers on KEH's website. It is difficult for me to judge them correctly, as the photos do not seem to resemble the actual camera on offer. But by now you already know that to the "naked" body (excluding WLF and focussing screen and film back) you have to add a lot of components.
Bottom line:
The 553ELX is a very special camera. Niche, yes. At its time, it was one of the expensive offerings in Hasselblad's product range. Looking at a 1996 price list, it was 40% more than the 503 body! It is a charming camera with a somewhat limited use case.
I would buy a complete kit from a reputable seller (with a decent return policy), and go for a late model (e.g. 553ELX) which has all the correct accoutrements.
Last edited:
John Wiegerink
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If you like Pentax glass then you can go for another 645 or a Pentax 67. I have the Pentax 67 and plenty of lenses and have no complaints. Well, almost no complaints. I do wish or miss interchangeable backs a lot. That's the reason I bought a Bronica GS-1 to see if I liked that setup. I must say that if I had bought the Bronica GS-1 first I wouldn't take a second look at the Pentax 67. Yes, the Bronica is what I should have bought first, but that's all hindsight. For 6X6 it's Hasselblad for me. My main camera is the old 500C and then the 553ELX. If I were to buy a Hasselblad today it would be something on the order of a 503CX/CM/CW or 501CM and a 555ELD.
I think the Bronica cameras are the "best bang for the buck" cameras out there today. Cheap enough to have a spare body or two and the glass on the front is really first rate stuff.
I think the Bronica cameras are the "best bang for the buck" cameras out there today. Cheap enough to have a spare body or two and the glass on the front is really first rate stuff.
Thanks for the tip! Just comparing pictures of the two, both the winder and shutter interfaces do seem to be suspiciously similar.
Will have to give it a try. While the ergonomics of the M645 are far from terrible, I find it rather easy to bump one of the two shutter releases during handling.
Naturally, the manual winder goes for twice what the motorised unit does on eBay - typical!
Even though I have 2 Hasselblad 500c's and a Fujica G690, I prefer my Mamiya 1000s and use it most often. It provides 15 exposures per roll and really enjoyed getting 30 shots when 220 was available.
If you have no issues, I would also recommend you just get another Pentax 645N body as you know its ins and outs and probably have other accessories for it. The devil you know...etc.
I did see a Pentax 645NII body on ebay for $829.00 and some 656N bodies for as low as $349!
Be well! Ed
If you have no issues, I would also recommend you just get another Pentax 645N body as you know its ins and outs and probably have other accessories for it. The devil you know...etc.
I did see a Pentax 645NII body on ebay for $829.00 and some 656N bodies for as low as $349!
Be well! Ed
Same from me, if you liked the Pentax and have lenses, stay in the system. Even without AF I prefer the 645n over the 645, mostly the button/control layout of the newer model, plus it gives 16 instead 15 exposures on 120 film.
brian steinberger
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As others have mentioned I would recommend the Mamiya 645 1000s. It’s the last of the all metal Mamiya 645 versions. I use mine with the Mamiya 645e grip and it’s great. One thing I like about the camera not always mentioned is the instant return mirror. With the grip and instant return mirror it feels like a large 35mm SLR.
prado333
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Having using several models and formats o ver the years i have clear two things . There is no camera perfect for all types of Photography . Hasselblad v is perfect if you like quality and square format on tripod . Mamiya rz same . Mamiya 7 is the best for documentary hand held same as Fuji gw67 gw69 . Fuji gx680 is the best for studio work . My advice is choose your type of work and search for notable photographers . You ended using the best for you , not for others.
John Wiegerink
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All of what you say is very true and finding the right camera that fits you and fits your needs is sometimes hit and miss. Forums like this can help remove a lot of pain and save money when it comes to trying to find the right camera for you. I think cameras like the Hasselblad 500 series are actually dual purpose type cameras. By that I mean they work perfect in the studio and are portable enough to carry just about anywhere. The film format is where I always had a problem when picking a camera. I had a beautiful full Mamiya 645 1000s camera system with the 80mm f1.9 as the standard lens, but just never grew to liking 645 format so I sold it. I'm not a real lover of 6X6, but it's better for me than 6x45 was. My liking is 6X7 and 6X9, but that's just me.
I prefer 6x6 format over 645 format.
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