Looking for a light meter

[runswithsizzers]

Gossen Super-Pilot SBC.

Weighs almost nothing. Much smaller than most. As sensitive as the Luna Pro. Built-in incident dome. VERY inexpensive.

This is advise from a dedicated Minolta meter user!

I like the size and look of that one!

But - what batteries does the Gossen Super-Pilot SBC need? I'm afraid it might need the banned 1.35V mercury batteries, yes? no? I am familiar with the various alternatives to the old Mallory PX 13 / PX 625 mercury batteries, but a person should be aware of what they are getting into before buying any device which was designed to use mercury batteries.

 

[xkaes]

Two 1.35 batteries. There are lots of alternatives -- and it's adjustable on the back.

 

[snusmumriken]

I have a few gripes about the Gossen Digisix.
- It's very easy to press the lower button by accident (e.g. in your pocket or camera bag), which can do things like setting the alarm and thus run the battery down very fast. A solution is to glue a ring of plastic around the button, and that does fix the problem. But why didn't the manufacturer do this?
- It's very complicated to calibrate the meter to match (for instance) another trusted device, and you have to do this again every time you change the battery.
- There is no simple way to set a filter factor.
- If your eyes are getting old and you don't yet wear glasses full-time, it's very difficult to read the numbers.
- It's surprisingly non-durable. I take care of my equipment. The Digisix is the only item I have that looks as though I have dragged it behind the car.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have a few gripes about the Gossen Digisix.
- It's very easy to press the lower button by accident (e.g. in your pocket or camera bag), which can do things like setting the alarm and thus run the battery down very fast. A solution is to glue a ring of plastic around the button, and that does fix the problem. But why didn't the manufacturer do this?
- It's very complicated to calibrate the meter to match (for instance) another trusted device, and you have to do this again every time you change the battery.

I avoid that and have the meter adjusted by a professional that has calibrated light sources, calibrates light meters often and knows that one adjustment is not enough often. If one only adjusts for the light level the straightness and nonlinearities will not be corrected. When done correctly, changing the battery will no cause the need for readjustment [which is a sign that it is not calibrated correctly.

- There is no simple way to set a filter factor.

Take the reading and then adjust the number of f/stops as specified by the manufacture. Same for the Zone System adjustment.

- If your eyes are getting old and you don't yet wear glasses full-time, it's very difficult to read the numbers.
- It's surprisingly non-durable. I take care of my equipment. The Digisix is the only item I have that looks as though I have dragged it behind the car.

 

[itsdoable]

This thread had me look into my "working" meters which surprised me - maybe I have a problem here...

On the left are mostly selenium meters. all of which are working, and most are still calibrated!

The Zeiss Ikophot T was my father's, he bought it in the early '60s in Asia (oddly he bought most of his German cameras in Asia, but that is another story!). It still works perfectly, the entire dial lights up when the reading is correct, so you can read it in low light, where it is accurate.

The Sekonic L86 was the 1st meter I bought, it came with an underwater housing which I used when scuba-diving. It was not very useful as it's sensitivity was mediocre, and it gets dark at any appreciable depth.

Thee Gossen Sixtino is brilliant, small, simple, quick, still accurate. I came with a snap-in incident filter, which I've since lost. Good in daylight.

The Hasselblad knob meter is still used on my 500cx, it's made by Gossen and works perfectly.

The Gossen Luna-Pro is an industry standard. This one has been converted to silver oxide batteries, I have the spot attachments too.

The Gossen N100 and Polysix use a Wheatstone bridge circuit, so you can use any battery. The PolySix has reflected, incident, and variable angle spot meter built in with no attachments necessary.

The digital meters are the ones I use mostly now, you can see the Gossen Sixtomat digital has been through a lot. The Sekinic L318 shown is my second one, I also have the flash meter version, but unfortunately it failed (and I'm only showin working meters), but it porbably has been ny most used meter.

The Digisix is brilliant with Hasselblads (or any L-value shutter), except the battery is always dead. The functionality is great, but the small size makes reading the dial difficult in later years when you near sight does not match your far sight. The buttons are exposed, so if you carry your meter in your pocket, or in a camera bag, it's constantly turned on until the battery dies.

The Voigtlander VCII is exceptionally made, but I never really got along with it.

The Reveni is the lightest shoe mount around, but I've not had good consistency with it's readings, I think it's too sensitive to IR.

Missing is my Minolta III, which is excellent, it's a little on the larger side.

Digital meters are nice, because you can press a button and have the reading, you don't have to read/null a needle and transfer that to a dial, then read off that dial.

If I was buying a meter now, I'd probably get the Sekonic 308, small, light, reliable, no attachments needed (I'd rather not be fumbling and losing attachments), there is a reason it's still on the market after 30 years!

If I need a spot meter, the Pentax Digital is the one. Although I think the iPhone is just as good.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

This thread had me look into my "working" meters which surprised me - maybe I have a problem here...

On the left are mostly selenium meters. all of which are working, and most are still calibrated!

View attachment 317793

View attachment 317794

The Zeiss Ikophot T was my father's, he bought it in the early '60s in Asia (oddly he bought most of his German cameras in Asia, but that is another story!). It still works perfectly, the entire dial lights up when the reading is correct, so you can read it in low light, where it is accurate.

The Sekonic L86 was the 1st meter I bought, it came with an underwater housing which I used when scuba-diving. It was not very useful as it's sensitivity was mediocre, and it gets dark at any appreciable depth.

Thee Gossen Sixtino is brilliant, small, simple, quick, still accurate. I came with a snap-in incident filter, which I've since lost. Good in daylight.

The Hasselblad knob meter is still used on my 500cx, it's made by Gossen and works perfectly.

The Gossen Luna-Pro is an industry standard. This one has been converted to silver oxide batteries, I have the spot attachments too.

The Gossen N100 and Polysix use a Wheatstone bridge circuit, so you can use any battery. The PolySix has reflected, incident, and variable angle spot meter built in with no attachments necessary.

The digital meters are the ones I use mostly now, you can see the Gossen Sixtomat digital has been through a lot. The Sekinic L318 shown is my second one, I also have the flash meter version, but unfortunately it failed (and I'm only showin working meters), but it porbably has been ny most used meter.

The Digisix is brilliant with Hasselblads (or any L-value shutter), except the battery is always dead. The functionality is great, but the small size makes reading the dial difficult in later years when you near sight does not match your far sight. The buttons are exposed, so if you carry your meter in your pocket, or in a camera bag, it's constantly turned on until the battery dies.

The Voigtlander VCII is exceptionally made, but I never really got along with it.

The Reveni is the lightest shoe mount around, but I've not had good consistency with it's readings, I think it's too sensitive to IR.

Missing is my Minolta III, which is excellent, it's a little on the larger side.

Digital meters are nice, because you can press a button and have the reading, you don't have to read/null a needle and transfer that to a dial, then read off that dial.

If I was buying a meter now, I'd probably get the Sekonic 308, small, light, reliable, no attachments needed (I'd rather not be fumbling and losing attachments), there is a reason it's still on the market after 30 years!

If I need a spot meter, the Pentax Digital is the one. Although I think the iPhone is just as good.

Nice collection! Where did you find a functioning Leicameter-M? All the ones I have seen in the last 5 or 10 years were kaput. Many (most?) of the Leicameter-MR4 CDS meters are ruined now, as well, because of leaking batteries and internal corrosion.

I agree that the Sekonic L318 is handy and easy to read. The clumsy part is you need to change the incident dome with a reflected unit if you change from one type of measurement to the other.

 

[etn]

The Voigtlander VCII is exceptionally made, but I never really got along with it.

If you like the form factor of the VCII, you might want to look at the KEKS meter:

KM02 OLED Light-meter

Introducing the all new KM02 OLED light-meter, which inherits all the simplicity of its predecessor the EM01, yet includes ground-breaking new features, compact dimensions and outstanding performance. All in all, making your photography experience easier

www.kekscameras.com

I have the previous version (EM01) and I like it a lot.

 

[snusmumriken]

This thread had me look into my "working" meters which surprised me - maybe I have a problem here...

On the left are mostly selenium meters. all of which are working, and most are still calibrated!

View attachment 317793

View attachment 317794

The Zeiss Ikophot T was my father's, he bought it in the early '60s in Asia (oddly he bought most of his German cameras in Asia, but that is another story!). It still works perfectly, the entire dial lights up when the reading is correct, so you can read it in low light, where it is accurate.

The Sekonic L86 was the 1st meter I bought, it came with an underwater housing which I used when scuba-diving. It was not very useful as it's sensitivity was mediocre, and it gets dark at any appreciable depth.

Thee Gossen Sixtino is brilliant, small, simple, quick, still accurate. I came with a snap-in incident filter, which I've since lost. Good in daylight.

The Hasselblad knob meter is still used on my 500cx, it's made by Gossen and works perfectly.

The Gossen Luna-Pro is an industry standard. This one has been converted to silver oxide batteries, I have the spot attachments too.

The Gossen N100 and Polysix use a Wheatstone bridge circuit, so you can use any battery. The PolySix has reflected, incident, and variable angle spot meter built in with no attachments necessary.

The digital meters are the ones I use mostly now, you can see the Gossen Sixtomat digital has been through a lot. The Sekinic L318 shown is my second one, I also have the flash meter version, but unfortunately it failed (and I'm only showin working meters), but it porbably has been ny most used meter.

The Digisix is brilliant with Hasselblads (or any L-value shutter), except the battery is always dead. The functionality is great, but the small size makes reading the dial difficult in later years when you near sight does not match your far sight. The buttons are exposed, so if you carry your meter in your pocket, or in a camera bag, it's constantly turned on until the battery dies.

The Voigtlander VCII is exceptionally made, but I never really got along with it.

The Reveni is the lightest shoe mount around, but I've not had good consistency with it's readings, I think it's too sensitive to IR.

Missing is my Minolta III, which is excellent, it's a little on the larger side.

Digital meters are nice, because you can press a button and have the reading, you don't have to read/null a needle and transfer that to a dial, then read off that dial.

If I was buying a meter now, I'd probably get the Sekonic 308, small, light, reliable, no attachments needed (I'd rather not be fumbling and losing attachments), there is a reason it's still on the market after 30 years!

If I need a spot meter, the Pentax Digital is the one. Although I think the iPhone is just as good.

That's the most useful post I've seen in ages. Really helpful insights. Which exposure meter app do you use on the iPhone?

 

[snusmumriken]

I avoid that and have the meter adjusted by a professional that has calibrated light sources, calibrates light meters often and knows that one adjustment is not enough often. If one only adjusts for the light level the straightness and nonlinearities will not be corrected. When done correctly, changing the battery will no cause the need for readjustment [which is a sign that it is not calibrated correctly.

Take the reading and then adjust the number of f/stops as specified by the manufacture. Same for the Zone System adjustment.

To quote the Digisix manual:
<<
2.4 Setting correction values
In order to deliberately change the exposure of your photos, you may adjust the factory calibration.
>>

The ability to do this separately from adjusting the film speed would be useful if it weren't so darn' fiddly, and if it persisted in memory between battery changes (which as noted are frequent and unexpected unless you modify the button surround). For instance, I wanted to bring the meter in line with that in my Leica M6, against which my film speeds and development times were established. From new, the Gossen was 2/3 stop different on very careful testing.

I would also have liked a separate persistent memory in the meter for the filter factor, given that I don't use a filter for every shot on the same roll of film. Mental agility is very healthy, but unless you are in constant practice you would often miss a shot where the subject is anything transient.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I like the Minolta but you have to replace the dome with the reflective attachment when you want to swith to reflective. Of course except for the flashmeter VI which you don't have to do that switching from spot to incident.

Yes, that's annoying and wastes time.

 

[itsdoable]

Where did you find a functioning Leicameter-M?.... <snip> .... Many (most?) of the Leicameter-MR4 CDS meters are ruined now, as well, because of leaking batteries and internal corrosion.

I'm sure my Leicameter-M is no longer accurate, I have not checked it in 10+ years. The intention was always to replace circuit with a silicon cell, but the MR4 is better (cleaned and converted to Silver-Oxide cells), and I don't have a camera that they fit on anymore.

Which exposure meter app do you use on the iPhone?

Been using this one for years

, but I have not checked for newer apps. I don't use a spot meter much, and this does everything I need (EV, color temp, etc....). If I used a spot meter more, I think I've would have bought the Pentax Digital by now.

________________________

I have too say, a big digital display that tells you everything you need in one button press is unbeatable. Dead batteries and having to change attachments sucks. That's about as simple as I get.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Two 1.35 batteries. There are lots of alternatives -- and it's adjustable on the back.

I believe that adjustment on the back of the Gossen Super-Pilot SBC is simply a zero adjustment screw so you can align the needle with the zero setting mark. I am pretty sure changing that adjustment will not compensate for inaccurate readings due to incorrect battery voltage.

The only presently available battery that I know of which has the correct 1.35 voltage is the Wein cell, MRB625. They are the right voltage and the right size. But not commonly available, and a bit pricey ($8-12USD each), especially considering their relatively short lifespan (about 9 months?).

Zinc-air hearing aid batteries, ZA675, are more like 1.4-1.45V which is probably close enough (but maybe not for slide shooters?). Zinc-air cells are inexpensive and easier to find than the Wein cells, but they are not exactly the right size and may require spacers to make them fit. Once activated, they have a short lifespan (2-4 months?) whether you use the meter, or not.

There are several other batteries that will fit, but they are the wrong voltage. There are adapters which can convert the higher voltage of alkaline or silver oxide batteries to the required 1.35V - like the one from C.R.I.S. - but add the price of two of those, and the meter is no longer cheap.

For someone who does not want to fool around with zinc air batteries or adapters, the best solution would be to have a repair technician modify the meter circuit to use modern silver oxide batteries (303/357/76).

 

[xya]

Being a photographer all my life, I certainly have 40 or so working meters somewhere in my storage cases, half of them old selenium meters. I (IMHO) think the use the right meter is largely overestimated. Personally I use a Gossen Sixtomat Flash (several times renamed but still in production) if flash is necessary, or a tiny Digisix. I have a Minolta IV f with ground glass attachment, but I never got used to it, it's too complicated to calibrate.

I can still get fine results with a tiny selenium Gossen Sixti or a Sixtino (or an old Wein flash meter in case of flash). If a hint of a cloud passes between measuring and your photo, all your careful calibrating is gone.

The range of possible error between deleloping your film and making a print is large, so are the possible correction options...

BTW: To save the battery of my Digisix, I just pull the battery tray out before storing...

 

[MattKing]

To save the battery of my Digisix, I just pull the battery tray out before storing...

I found a replacement for the case that is a bit harder sided, and doesn't press against the buttons.
I think it was designed originally for the smallest cel phones.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Being a photographer all my life, I certainly have 40 or so working meters somewhere in my storage cases, half of them old selenium meters. I (IMHO) think the use the right meter is largely overestimated. Personally I use a Gossen Sixtomat Flash (several times renamed but still in production) if flash is necessary, or a tiny Digisix. I have a Minolta IV f with ground glass attachment, but I never got used to it, it's too complicated to calibrate.

I can still get fine results with a tiny selenium Gossen Sixti or a Sixtino (or an old Wein flash meter in case of flash). If a hint of a cloud passes between measuring and your photo, all your careful calibrating is gone.

The range of possible error between deleloping your film and making a print is large, so are the possible correction options...

BTW: To save the battery of my Digisix, I just pull the battery tray out before storing...

I pull the battery out of my Minolta III F as well even though they say it shuts off. I found that it will drain the battery over a period of weeks or months if not used. So just when you need it, it's dead. The Minolta IV had an on-off switch added to prevent that.

 

[Randy Stewart]

To look at the specifications of the Gossen Digisix, you would think it is the perfect fit for a small, light meter with reflected and incident capacity. That's what I though when I bought one a few years after the were introduced. Unhappily, what you get is a lightly built meter using cheap plastic which easily breaks. Its requires that you read an EV reading and manual transpose that to an exposure scale, both of which are unreasonably hard to see. The worst part of it is that to move from one function to another, including setting ISO, you have to push combinations of little buttons many times to cycle through a variety of "added features" which no one wants, like a stop watch and several other things. It takes a while to set ISO, but after that it's fairly easy to use until you change film. The rest of the "features" seem to be just bullshit, included because the microchip they use came from the supplier with the other features encoded. I use mine only as a backup out in the field because it fits in a shirt pocket out of the way. I would recommend not buying this meter generally, and certainly not as a primary meter.

 

[IMoL]

Its requires that you read an EV reading

This is actually one of the features that I look for in a meter - the ISO-adjusted EV number is what I am after. I am one of the few (?) people that actually likes cameras with EV scale exposure settings, so I need a meter that works that way too.

Your other points about the Digisix I cannot comment on, but it doesn't look like a sturdy piece of kit from what I see online.

The meters I actually use:

- A Soligor "digital" meter (early 90s vintage, takes a 9v battery) that gives me an EV readout in massive red LED numbers that I can read without glasses, or

- The app "Viewfinder" on my iPhone - which gives me the EV number I am looking for and seems as accurate as anything else. I also use it for its intended purpose to visualize for the film format and focal length and then meter for different parts of the scene. Bonus: I never forget to take it with me.

 

[maltfalc]

I believe that adjustment on the back of the Gossen Super-Pilot SBC is simply a zero adjustment screw so you can align the needle with the zero setting mark. I am pretty sure changing that adjustment will not compensate for inaccurate readings due to incorrect battery voltage.

The only presently available battery that I know of which has the correct 1.35 voltage is the Wein cell, MRB625. They are the right voltage and the right size. But not commonly available, and a bit pricey ($8-12USD each), especially considering their relatively short lifespan (about 9 months?).

Zinc-air hearing aid batteries, ZA675, are more like 1.4-1.45V which is probably close enough (but maybe not for slide shooters?). Zinc-air cells are inexpensive and easier to find than the Wein cells, but they are not exactly the right size and may require spacers to make them fit. Once activated, they have a short lifespan (2-4 months?) whether you use the meter, or not.

There are several other batteries that will fit, but they are the wrong voltage. There are adapters which can convert the higher voltage of alkaline or silver oxide batteries to the required 1.35V - like the one from C.R.I.S. - but add the price of two of those, and the meter is no longer cheap.

For someone who does not want to fool around with zinc air batteries or adapters, the best solution would be to have a repair technician modify the meter circuit to use modern silver oxide batteries (303/357/76).

1.4v zinc-air cells are actually 1.3 something volts for most of their discharge curve and a very good match for mercury cells. weincells are just normal zinc-air cells. dirt cheap lr44 cells are in the right voltage range half way through their discharge curve and work great in meters with a battery check feature.

 

[MattKing]

My Gossen Digiflash (Digisix + flash metering) meter has been great since I bought it new several years ago. I like the EV system it uses, and don't mind the somewhat cumbersome method to change EI or modes.
It is incredibly light, which may give the impression of not being durable, but mine has performed flawlessly for years and in all sorts of conditions, and it literally shows no sign of wear.
It will go through a 30 cent battery quickly, if you carry it in the included case, but if you put it in some place that stops you from inadvertently pushing the buttons, the battery lasts for a long time.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

I use this on the devices that need a 1.35 volts battery.

MR9 MR-9 PX625 PX13 Battery Adapter for Film Camera & Exposure Meter / Mercury | eBay

Price is for one adapter only. Use of 386 / SR43W Silver Oxide battery (1.55 V) to.

www.ebay.com

There are other options on the bay/amazon but find this is the cheapest one. Having no issues at all.

Marcelo

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Those devices includes multiple Gossen lightmeters, Olympus OM1, Konica T3, Canon F1 and Yashica 124g.

 

[Sirius Glass]

To look at the specifications of the Gossen Digisix, you would think it is the perfect fit for a small, light meter with reflected and incident capacity. That's what I though when I bought one a few years after the were introduced. Unhappily, what you get is a lightly built meter using cheap plastic which easily breaks. Its requires that you read an EV reading and manual transpose that to an exposure scale, both of which are unreasonably hard to see. The worst part of it is that to move from one function to another, including setting ISO, you have to push combinations of little buttons many times to cycle through a variety of "added features" which no one wants, like a stop watch and several other things. It takes a while to set ISO, but after that it's fairly easy to use until you change film. The rest of the "features" seem to be just bullshit, included because the microchip they use came from the supplier with the other features encoded. I use mine only as a backup out in the field because it fits in a shirt pocket out of the way. I would recommend not buying this meter generally, and certainly not as a primary meter.

This is actually one of the features that I look for in a meter - the ISO-adjusted EV number is what I am after. I am one of the few (?) people that actually likes cameras with EV scale exposure settings, so I need a meter that works that way too.

Your other points about the Digisix I cannot comment on, but it doesn't look like a sturdy piece of kit from what I see online.

The meters I actually use:

- A Soligor "digital" meter (early 90s vintage, takes a 9v battery) that gives me an EV readout in massive red LED numbers that I can read without glasses, or

- The app "Viewfinder" on my iPhone - which gives me the EV number I am looking for and seems as accurate as anything else. I also use it for its intended purpose to visualize for the film format and focal length and then meter for different parts of the scene. Bonus: I never forget to take it with me.

My Gossen Digiflash (Digisix + flash metering) meter has been great since I bought it new several years ago. I like the EV system it uses, and don't mind the somewhat cumbersome method to change EI or modes.
It is incredibly light, which may give the impression of not being durable, but mine has performed flawlessly for years and in all sorts of conditions, and it literally shows no sign of wear.
It will go through a 30 cent battery quickly, if you carry it in the included case, but if you put it in some place that stops you from inadvertently pushing the buttons, the battery lasts for a long time.

I prefer the EV system. Once I starting using the Hasselblads I finally understood all those discussions about the EV system in the 1960's Popular Photography and Modern Photography.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I use this on the devices that need a 1.35 volts battery.

MR9 MR-9 PX625 PX13 Battery Adapter for Film Camera & Exposure Meter / Mercury | eBay

Price is for one adapter only. Use of 386 / SR43W Silver Oxide battery (1.55 V) to.

www.ebay.com

There are other options on the bay/amazon but find this is the cheapest one. Having no issues at all.

Marcelo

Back when I was doing research about batteries for my Konica T4 - that was about a year ago - I did not find this product. Glad to see this is now available as a more affordable option to the ones from Kanto (in Japan) and C.R.I.S.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Back when I was doing research about batteries for my Konica T4 - that was about a year ago - I did not find this product. Glad to see this is now available as a more affordable option to the ones from Kanto (in Japan) and C.R.I.S.

Agree. These are almost half the price of Kanto in some stores. I previously had a Kanto one but I gave it away when I sold my Leica M5. I don't see any remarkably difference versus the Kanto one.

 

[StanMac]

Are those digital meters allowed to be discussed or mentioned in an analog tagged post? Just asking . . . . .

Stan