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Let's Build a (Dry) Sink

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Pictured: Late delivery.

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Now, the only question is whether or not to add chopped fiber to the filleting mix. 🤔
 
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Be careful with the silica!!!

Definitely. A little bit won't kill you, but with respirators being so cheap there's no reason to not use one.

Now, watch me knock over the entire container and then accidentally kick it across the floor.
 
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Squaring things with a very tiny square is fun.

Pictured: Fun.

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Improvisation seems to be the name of the game with this project; it's kind of a sketchy setup but the fun thing about geometry is that it basically always works. And on that note:

Pictured: Improvised scoring blade.

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As is evident, the Milwaukee blade isn't great at crosscutting...but most circular saw blades aren't, so that's no big loss. I didn't really need to pre-score the cut line, but I just wanted to see how well the blade would do with a scribe already cut into the top veneer. Answer: pretty good.

Pictured: I'll take it.

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There was basically no tear-out or splintering along the underside of the cut, so yeah: I'm going to get a few more of these blades and just keep them in stock from now on.

After the floor was cut, it was time for a quick sanity check to see if the everything fit properly...and for the most part, it did. I don't have the floor blocked up to the actual height in the following picture - I didn't have the subframe/bracing cut to length, yet - but even so, this gives me an idea of what the tray sink depth would have been if I didn't cut the extra 1/2" out of the side skirt height.

Pictured: So much room for activities.

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On the whole, I'm glad that I reduced the height a bit; even the large/deep paper trays feel a bit buried within a recess of this volume, and the small trays are completely lost. Doing a tray-within-a-tray helps a bit, but by reducing the inside height to 2-1/2", I made my wrists a lot more comfortable in general.

I'm still undecided on including a drain (or drains) so I'm going to table that issue for now, and instead just work on getting the floor and subframe assembled...and that means cutting some narrow stuff to length, which is not circular saw territory.

Pictured: Mostly because it would take too long, comparatively.

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I love pull saws...and some day, I'm going to get myself a nice, expensive one that's designed for cutting panels and other expensive bits of wood. Until then, I'm going to make do with this one, which is actually a timber-framing saw that cost me about $20. That makes it the absolute wrong tool for this job...but I'm not complaining too much about the cut quality, regardless.

Pictured: Or at all.

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That's the first of the subframe braces, and now that it's trimmed, I get to go buy some #8 trim screws, because I have evidently failed at being a person and I have exactly none of those in the correct 1-1/4" length that I'll need for basically everything I'm about to assemble. So, I'm off to remedy that oversight.

More later. Maybe.
 
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When it is all done you can paint it green and use it as a gaming table.

I have it on the best of authority that a 2-1/2" interior height is the ideal size for constraining errant d12 rolls.

Also: I made quite a bit of progress today, but it's late and I didn't really get to a good stopping point, so I'll post an update tomorrow. But: things are partially assembled. For now, at least. I mean, it all has to come back apart because literally none of it is glued together, but still: progress! 👍
 
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Looking good.


Sadly, nothing in skilsaw sizes.

For the Appleply, it looks like crosscut hardwoods up here in Seattle is your closest non-wholesale only option. You can drool over Ebony and other exotic woods there too.
 

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When it is all done you can paint it green and use it as a gaming table.

Or clad it in stainless steel and perform autopsies on shorter bodies! 😲
 
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Looking good.

Just wait; I'll fix that. 🤣

For the Appleply, it looks like crosscut hardwoods up here in Seattle is your closest non-wholesale only option. You can drool over Ebony and other exotic woods there too.

If they have legit ebony, I'll definitely be drooling. 🤤

Or clad it in stainless steel and perform autopsies on shorter bodies! 😲

All bodies are shorter after you cut them into bite-sized pieces. Hmmm... maybe I do need to install a drain. 🤔
 
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A small amount of sleep was had; things were then done.

Pictured: Things.

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Hmmm...let me back up a bit; I got rather ahead of myself.

So, having failed at heeding my father's advice about having enough clamps, I have realized that for a few dollars I can install permanent clamps into the workpiece...so I grabbed a bag of stainless #8's for about $15. I didn't really need stainless ones, but I bought them anyway because they made me feel a bit better about having done all of this the exact wrong way, so far. That, and the fact that their threads are like little razors, and razor-threading means good holding power in soft plywood cores... especially when pre-drilled with an actual countersinking bit of the correct size.

Pictured: Pay no attention to the JCH StreetPan box behind the curtain.

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I usually don't like attaching long, narrow strips of stuff to other pieces of stuff; either or both seem to often have the desire to wander out of place...so, that's why I used two of the clamps that I do own to hold everything together long enough to sink a screw on either end, which then made drilling all of the subframe parts very simple.

Pictured: Simple except for me being pedantic about alignment.

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I know it's just wood, but errors and misalignments stack; I try to keep them to a minimum. So, I gave myself a small bit of room in the very corners - I may knock them into a chamfer, yet - and kept the sides and ends as flush as possible.

Also, just in case you think plywood is uniform in it's thickness...

Pictured: It isn't.

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Annoying, but I've dealt with much worse; also, since this entire area will be completely hidden by the side skirts, I'm not that worried. Depending on how I glue it up, the glue itself may create enough of a height differential to somewhat even things out. On that note: I think I'm going to just use epoxy to join all of my plywood parts together. Originally I'd planned on Titebond III™ but I'm not 100% certain of how that'll play with epoxy...but I'm pretty sure that epoxy with play very well with itself. Also: phrasing.

I ran a single line of #8 screws down the center of each outer subframe/brace; the central brace got a double line because of its width, and the entirety got badly-photographed.

On that note, I'd like to address a few design notes that may or may not make sense, depending on how much smarter than me you happen to be:
  • I spaced the screws at somewhere around 6" apart, because that was an easy length to lay out and an easy length to work around, later on; the clamping pressure should be pretty good, overall. Honestly, it just has to hold together long enough for the epoxy to set; after that, they're just insurance.
  • I'm building the subframe for two reasons. Mostly, it's to create a wider surface for the side skirt attachment - it's a lot easier to glue to a double width of plywood, compared to a single - but the subframe will also make it simpler to bolt this entire thing to the frame/base/stand that I'll be using.
  • It wouldn't been simpler to just build a full double-thickness bottom, but that would've required an entire second sheet of plywood. Even though it's more time-consuming to build it in this way, it really saves a lot of material.
So, yeah: that's where we are as of tonight... excerpting, of course, the test joint that I whipped up a few minutes ago. It's currently drying/curing/setting...or doing whatever epoxy does when it decides to no longer be a liquid. I'll let that set up overnight, and in the meantime I'll try to figure out how to install these:

Pictured: ...wait for it...

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... because I just now realized that they have to be installed directly on top of an epoxy seam, and that seam will lie squarely between two pieces of plywood that are oriented 90° apart from each other.

See? Told you I could screw it up. 👍
 
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The results of a quick and shoddy epoxy test.

Pictured: Thixotropism? Thixotropy? Thixo- eh, whatever. It's runny.

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It's hard to see, but even at 68°F ambient this stuff likes to run and sag...so it's gonna have to go on in a very thin coat. I'd actually love to cut it with some kind of reducer, but I don't have any and I'm not even sure what the result would be; the last thing I want is some kind of unstable situation/reaction taking place. I'll check the paperwork and see if I have any options. It's worth noting, however, that the leftovers cured really well.

Pictured: Not a casting resin.

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It's hard to tell, but that layer on the bottom of the cup is just over 1/8" deep; that's almost 3 metric inch-tenths. I'm surprised it didn't foam or bubble or anything; it's actually quite clear...so that's thixotropy in action in a good way.

I may get some work done on the sink today, but I'm also in the process of rebuilding a missing part for a mat cutter that I just bought for very few of my monies, so that needs to get done and out of the way before I go too much further on anything else. And I may need to dredge up some kind of random orbital sander, because I don't have one that I can actually use...and that's a phrase that here means "I do own a very nice 5" Dynabrade that would make very quick work of this project, but it has no provision for dust collection and I don't have a compressor anywhere even close to being large enough to run it" and that means I don't actually have a sander. So, yeah... let's build a sliding nut for a mat cutter, instead.
 
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Pictured: Totally sidetracked...

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...but the mat cutter can actually work, now. Moving on...

I ordered some textured rollers for the bedliner, today; heretofore I've only sprayed it, so applying it via roller may be an exercise in disaster. To that end, I'm also going to pick up some standard 4" foam rollers for the epoxy resin; between those and a torch, I may be able to get the surface a bit smoother...or at least more uniform. The issue is porosity of the surface: as the epoxy resin wicks into the fibers of the plywood, the air already present has to go somewhere so it surfaces in the form of bubbles...and when we sand the cured result, we then have a not-uniform layer of not-waterproof epoxy, because of course we do: this would be too easy, otherwise.

The good news from today is that I may be able to just drill the bores for the threaded inserts into the plywood seam and then place a drop of resin into each hole; the result should be decently strong, and since there's very little load on those fasteners I shouldn't have to worry about them going anywhere or doing anything naughty. Key word: Shouldn't.

More tomorrow; gotta get the enlarger I bought cleaned up, because someone may need the remainder of it more than I do...which is to say that they need it at all. Turns out that I may just pull the head assembly off and bolt that to my spare 23, after all... because sure, that'll work.
 

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Wow, this is fascinating to read! I went through an extremely similar process of building a wooden sink and repairing (although not completely rebuilding!) one of those blue Beselers a few years ago. I used the same Total Boat epoxy resin and glassed the interior of my sink. Mine is meant to be wet and is plumbed with a drain. That said, your craftsmanship puts mine to shame! I look forward to seeing your finished sink - thank you for taking us through your build process!


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Wow, this is fascinating to read!

I'm glad! I try to keep thinking interesting; we'll see how long that holds up. 😉

I went through an extremely similar process of building a wooden sink and repairing (although not completely rebuilding!) one of those blue Beselers a few years ago.

In full disclosure, the one I rebuilt was actually an assembly of not just two, but three 45's and some spare parts, to boot. I pulled all three out of a dumpster behind a school; they were scrapping their photography department and these literally got thrown out. Not placed, not shoved, and definitely not gently nudged; they were thrown the actual f*** into a 30-yard construction skip. One had an intact carriage, the other had a mostly-intact head and carriage motor, and the last had an intact chassis and lens/negative stage. I found a small box of parts adjacent to them; it had a few springs and widgets and two bellows units. I was missing the X-braces, back stays and baseboard, so I remade all of those pieces with improved versions and assembled the entirety into a single, working, pristine 45.

And then, when I moved, I realized I didn't have space for it in the Pod, so I kept it in storage 3,000 miles away. Because I make really good decisions.

I used the same Total Boat epoxy resin and glassed the interior of my sink.

I would imagine that the glassing effectively prevented any of the issues that I'm dealing with, epoxy-wise. How's the resin holding up?

Mine is meant to be wet and is plumbed with a drain.

I should do that. I really should. It's intelligent. It's forward-thinking. It makes all the sense in the world. But I make really good decisions about things like this, so...yeah...

That said, your craftsmanship puts mine to shame! I look forward to seeing your finished sink - thank you for taking us through your build process!

I don't know about that; I'm looking at that quarter-sawn front skirt on yours and thinking that it looks a hell of a lot better than mine will. I'm mostly just making straight cuts and hoping that I can cover the mistakes with some tiny little corner round-overs and ten pounds of bedliner. But: thank you, nonetheless. I try to do a decent job, so hopefully some of that is coming through.
 

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I would imagine that the glassing effectively prevented any of the issues that I'm dealing with, epoxy-wise. How's the resin holding up?

The resin is holding up extremely well! I had initially planned to finish it with topside paint, and I may still do that at some point in the indeterminate future. I had also planned to build an 80/20 stand/frame for the sink that would allow for a drying screen rack underneath, but as of yet neither of those has materialized. In any case, even without topside paint the resin itself is extremely durable. My application of the resin was...less than ideal, aesthetically, but I am confident in the waterproofing. I did countersink the drain flange and epoxy it in place after finishing the hole, because that penetration in the sink basin terrified me.

As far as aesthetics go, I used the nicest #2 or better Doug fir 1x6s I could find within a few moments of digging at the lumber yard and a freebie piece of ACX for the basin. Besides which, my focus was more on completion than anything else. It looks pretty decent from a distance, but it's no great beauty and the fiberglassed corners, in particular, look absolutely terrible up close. Self deprecation aside,your approach is much more considered, neat, and craftsmanly.

In any case, I've worked without running water on a countertop and done alright. Having a full-blown basin is a luxury in comparison, and it's clear that you've considered its utility in your work. As mentioned before, I look forward to the rest of your work!

EDIT:

One thing I'll add is that I found brush application of the epoxy resin to be nearly impossible to do cleanly and evenly, at least given my skill level. I found the most success in using a high-density foam roller.
 
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The resin is holding up extremely well! ...

Good to know, and thank you for taking the time to post your ideas on the 80/20 system; same goes for the construction details. 👍

One thing I'll add is that I found brush application of the epoxy resin to be nearly impossible to do cleanly and evenly, at least given my skill level. I found the most success in using a high-density foam roller.

Yeah, the brush isn't the way to go with...well, anything visible. I picked up some cheap 4" foam rollers and tray liners today; hopefully those will do better. I'll try a test patch tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
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Round-over and templating bits are ordered; turns out that I didn't have one of the correct size, for either. #failsauce
 
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Okay...time to get things done. Remember the weird orange object from a couple of posts back? That was a router template.

Pictured: Because this wasn't difficult enough already.

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I decided that the front skirt of the sink needed...well, some kind of something to give it a bit of character; the blank 4" facade just wasn't working for me. So, I fired up Fusion and decided to create a few router templates for some lettering; it took a couple of tries to get them looking acceptable because I'm still pretty new to Fusion and I ran out of orange PETG filament during the printing, but at length I managed to create some that were workable.

Pictured: When Plan A fails...

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There's a long story behind "Plan B" and me, and someday I may tell it...but for no, let's just accept that I write that on a lot of things that I build, and let's pretend that it in no way represents my perennial propensity for having to do things at least twice. Let's also pretend that running out of orange filament and thus ending up with one non-matching template was all according to a grand and elegant design, and not merely an exercise in ridiculously divine irony.

I was really planning on taking a good action shot of the routing process with my third arm, but midway through doing the routing I realized that I was already using that arm to control the overly-stiff excuse of a hose that Shop Vac insists upon supplying with their otherwise-effective little vacuums; thus, not having a fourth arm - which I would have probably just used to beat on the Shop Vac in sheer frustration, if I did have it - I made do with an after-the-fact shot which proves that every once in awhile, I do something right.

Pictured: Seriously, I really hate those stupid hoses.

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I have no idea what font that is; I think it started as...maybe a Swiss Bold? Doesn't really look like that, but since I chopped it apart and stretched and pulled and otherwise-altered it in Fusion until I got what I wanted, it's not surprising. I like the way it turned out, though, and not least of all because the angled projections within the letter 'B" look like tiny cartoon sauropods. On that note: all of the mounting screw holes will get filled and sanded, so nobody will ever know that they were present. Also, in case anyone thinks that the letters look really shallow: it's because they are. They're right at 1/8" deep, which is why I got that unreasonably expensive Amana bit in the picture above; turns out that shallow-cutting pattern bits aren't that common, so that one was kind of a special-order thing...but it worked perfectly for these letters, even if I was running it right at the very ragged edge of its capacity. That's not something I normally like to do with any router, but it was especially dicey when paired with my baby Milwaukee; still, the cut quality was very good, even for plywood. In fact, the only downside to such a shallow cut was that I wasn't able to use a teeny-tiny roundover bit to radius the letter edged.

Pictured: So I did that by hand.

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That was not fun to do with 220-grit sandpaper and a key file, but it turned out well and it only took fifteen minutes to break and round the edges on all of the letters. My plan - ha... - is to not worry about the sharp inside corner at the bottom of the routed edge; hopefully, the epoxy that'll get rolled on in a day or three will give that space a tiny bit of filling, and thereby ease the crevice a bit before the bedliner goes on.

After the routing and sanding was done, I decided to go ahead and lay out the screw locations for the front and rear skirts, because moving directly into doing the rest of the sanding that I needed to finish today was evidently just way too logical of a work order for someone as organized and methodical as I am.

Pictured: Helter Skelter.

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Also, as proof of my organized and methodical nature, I humbly submit this image of my makeshift workbench; I trust this will end all debate on the subject.

Pictured: Vindication feels surprisingly like depression.

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See? Everything is exactly in its place; even the muffin tin looks happy! Anyway, moving on...

The rest of today's work was epoxy-related, because I decided to go ahead and prep the subframe pieces and the floor for assembly. There honestly wasn't much to document here; the effort was basically just a process of sanding with 220-grit to break the surface polish of the veneer, vacuuming up the bulk of the sawdust, and then wiping everything clean with a rag and some acetone...and let me tell you: doing even that small amount of sanding kind of sucks without a usable random-orbital sander.

Pictured: Depression feels surprisingly like vindication.

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In full disclosure: I do have a random-orbital sander - a few of them, actually - but none of them are usable, despite all of them being in perfect working order. The bulk of them are in storage about 3,000 miles away from me, and the one that I do have close-at-hand just so happens to be an air-powered Dynabrade...and since I don't have a compressor in my tiny garage that's even remotely capable of running a Dynabrade sander, the pile of sanders that are 3,000 miles away are actually more usable than the one sander that I own that's six feet away from me. Have I mentioned that I make really great life choices? Because I do that; I really, really do that.

After that light bit of sanding and prep was done, and after I fully realized how truly awful my life was going to be when it came time to sand a layer of cured epoxy resin by hand, I arranged all of the epoxy supplies on a convenient work surface...

Pictured: For some reason, my other work surface said it couldn't hold anything else.

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...and I got started with coating the interfacing subframes and floor surfaces with some heavily aerated epoxy. Much like the routing, there's also not much footage from this part; this time, my third arm was busy readjusting the 3M respirator that I was attempting to wear,because I don't always make really great life choices. I did, however, manage to get one shot of some chip brush bristles being abandoned.

Pictured: There goes my joint accuracy.

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Looking back at that image, I now realize that it's hard to see any of the epoxy that was on the right edge...but believe me when I say that I didn't really skimp on using it: epoxy was squeezing out of the screw holes in some areas as I was going down the fastener line, adding screws and clamping the parts together.

Pictured: Let's hope that I don't have to remove this one.

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I probably could have used very little epoxy in the joints and been totally fine; in fact, I know I could have done that, but I have plenty of the stuff so there was no reason to not use it. It did create some significant squeeze out in some areas where I went a bit heavy on the condiments, so to speak, but it was nothing that couldn't be fixed with some judicious brushing and a bit of acetone...and after that was done, I had to call it quits for the day.

Pictured: Stopping point.

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So yeah...that whole assembly is gonna hang out and dry for a day, and then I'm going to do some sanding, some existential weeping, and some light edge-routing; probably in that order, no less. But, that's a crisis for tomorrow. For now I have to clean a workbench, because even though I don't always make really great life choices, it still happens about 96% of the time.

Stay tuned. 👍
 
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So, uhhh...yeah; this wasn't part of the plan.

Pictured: Improvisation.

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I'll explain later; for now, let's just say that I yet again failed at having enough clamps.
 

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I don't see how you could get a whole lot of splashing when using a Nova.

A 20x24 tray would be sufficient containment - in fact, I'd tend to argue that modifying a 20x24 Paterson or Cescolite tray with external framing and a drain would make a pretty good sink for an awful lot of people.
 
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A 20x24 tray would be sufficient containment - in fact, I'd tend to argue that modifying a 20x24 Paterson or Cescolite tray with external framing and a drain would make a pretty good sink for an awful lot of people.

Or just a bus bin from the restaurant supply store. I thought about going that route as well. Instead, I made my life insanely complicated...but at least I got to play with string.

Pictured: Again.

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Yeah, so...since I waited a few days between cutting and layout/routing/assembly, the plywood had enough time to twist a bit; par for the course with imported stuff. It's not bad - maybe 1/32" at the worst - but that's enough to cause problems with thixotropomical resin; the stuff is so thin that it'll run out of a joint, and we want it to be thin so that it'll soak in to the end grain/plies of the plywood...so, I had to improvise methods to pull the joints closed, and that necessitated two different directions of pull, over two different days. Yesterday I had to set this up...

Pictured: State of the art, 6th Dynasty, Old Kingdom.

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...and that allowed me to pull this corner into place.

Pictured: It's not so terrible.

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Also, when I say "Not so terrible" I actually mean "Holy f***ing Moses, what the hell is that massive void doing RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF MY FASTENER LINE?!?!". Because yeah, that's exactly where the screws that join the front/rear skirts to the side skirts are supposed to go. So that had to get filled in...

Pictured: This resin stuff is useful.

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...and then I went ahead and ran a fillet in the inside corner with the leftover epoxy and some colloidal silica mixed in.

Pictured: Hmmm... probably could've just used latex caulk.

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PSA: Mix colloidal silica OUTSIDE, kids. Even in dead still air it's so light and fluffy that it goes literally everywhere when you so much as think about touching it. I mean, it does an amazing job of making a structural filler, but it's completely horrid to work with. Respiratory protection is an absolute must, as is vacuuming your work area immediately after mixing. Seriously, don't wait: the resin won't cure that quickly...but if it starts to, just use it as a hole filler.

Pictured: Like, for realsies, this stuff really is pretty awesome.

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And that's how we got to today: I needed all of that to cure overnight so that I could use this end of the sink structure to pull a tiny little bow and twist out of the other end. The center was bowed outwards at the base, the the upper edge of the entire piece wanted to tilt inwards as a result...so, I ran a string clamp underneath the floor, secured to the central mounting screw of the side skirt. This allowed me to pull that portion of the work almost directly towards the opposite side, and apply a slight rotational force on it at the same time.

Pictured: Torque moment.

1000026185.jpg



...and that's where I stopped, because I'm letting the epoxy mostly cure before I remove that string clamp. Hopefully the screw won't seize, but if it does I can fix it...and by "fix it" I actually mean "cut the head off entirely because once that resin is set, I could care less about the screw."

So, yeah, that's all for today. Stay tuned... 👍
 
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Sundowner

Sundowner

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Well, I think I don't have to worry about dry joints on this one...

Pictured: Flood the cowling; plenty of it.

1000026250.jpg



Epoxy drips are a bitch to clean up with sandpaper...and that's yet another reason that we have card scrapers.

Pictured: Most satisfying sound on the planet.

1000026251.jpg



With a fresh-turned burr, there's nothing better to work with...and I'm including a well-tuned plane in that category. I had to go back over these surfaces with 220-grit just to rough them up; the scaper makes them too smooth. That being done, however, we're now ready for more assembly tomorrow. 👍
 

mshchem

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Well, I think I don't have to worry about dry joints on this one...

Pictured: Flood the cowling; plenty of it.

View attachment 388494


Epoxy drips are a bitch to clean up with sandpaper...and that's yet another reason that we have card scrapers.

Pictured: Most satisfying sound on the planet.

View attachment 388495


With a fresh-turned burr, there's nothing better to work with...and I'm including a well-tuned plane in that category. I had to go back over these surfaces with 220-grit just to rough them up; the scaper makes them too smooth. That being done, however, we're now ready for more assembly tomorrow. 👍

Absolutely cabinet scrapers are the greatest tool ever invented!!! Especially when you have a (burnishing?) tool to get the burr just right.
 
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