Leitz Focomat 1c wiring

[joby]

I acquired a very complete and mint (though dusty) Focomat 1c last night, the variety with the filter drawer that says "color" just above the condenser. Everything is present as far as I can tell, including the AN glass ring that slips between the condenser and negative.

The only thing that it needs is a rewiring, which leads me to my questions:

Where does one source the type of cable that goes from the lamp housing to the column? It has a braided exterior, a rubber insulation, and three wires inside. I tried calling around to some light fixture stores with no luck. it seems to be the same diameter as the Ikea braided light fixture cords, but i'm not sure if those are grounded, i'm almost sure they're not.

Is the main source of worry and only area that needs replacing where the cable enters the lamp housing? there was a visible crack in the cord just above the head, with wiring exposed. The wiring underneath and to the illuminated enlargement factor scale seems okay, but I haven't pulled the wiring in the column yet.

I suppose i'm wondering if I should go through the trouble of rewiring the entire assembly from the head, through the column, and under the baseboard to the switch, or if I should just wire a cord directly from the head and run that to my timer to control exposure and focus.

If anyone has any experience rehabbing one of these beauties, I would be interested to hear your take on the appropriate steps to take here.

 

[baachitraka]

I have bypassed the switch on the base and ran the wire from the head of the enlarger to plug point on the wall and I have Ic without filter drawer.

 

[joby]

I have bypassed the switch on the base and ran the wire from the head of the enlarger to plug point on the wall and I have Ic without filter drawer.

thanks. what type of wire did you use to replace the existing wire?

 

[Hilo]

Nice! You got a great enlarger. Is it the black or the grey one?

I have done both: gone directly from the lamp head to the timer, and I have re-wired them. With the latter I took detailed pictures of the wiring under the baseboard. Where the three wires from the lamp head were attached under the base board, the same for the wires of the scale indicator and what happened direction switch. It is not very difficult and I am far from smart in these things.

Of course, using a modern timer you don't need the side switch. And the scale indicator I have never used. On the other hand, there's something nice about restoring to machine to how it was meant.

 

[baachitraka]

I don't really know but it has to lit a 60 W-100W opal lamp with 220 volts. You may ask appropriate wire gauge for this application in DIY shop.

 

[joby]

Nice! You got a great enlarger. Is it the black or the grey one?

I have done both: gone directly from the lamp head to the timer, and I have re-wired them. With the latter I took detailed pictures of the wiring under the baseboard. Where the three wires from the lamp head were attached under the base board, the same for the wires of the scale indicator and what happened direction switch. It is not very difficult and I am far from smart in these things.

Of course, using a modern timer you don't need the side switch. And the scale indicator I have never used. On the other hand, there's something nice about restoring to machine to how it was meant.

thanks!

it's a black one. i do see the appeal to restoring it to its full original condition, but wiring the lamp directly to a plug that goes to the timer is just the first step in that full resto, aside from rewiring in the plug that goes to the column later and so on...

i think i will do that for now, and see how i get on with it, if it lives up to the hype still open to suggestions though.

 

[baachitraka]

It will work. I connect the enlarger to Kaiser digital timer and the time to plug-point. Also I still use original bulb.

 

[Hilo]

I don't really know but it has to lit a 60 W-100W opal lamp with 220 volts. You may ask appropriate wire gauge for this application in DIY shop.

As far as I know (and have done for over 30 years) the 1c takes the 150 watt opal lamp that is still being made by Fischer, for 220 and for the OP's 110. For some negs I even use the 250 watt lamp. You can't keep it on for a long time, but exposing is always okay. If you have the earliest version 1c it may come with a bakelite fitting, then I would not use the 250 bulb . . .

Just bring a piece of the old wire to an electricity store, they'll know what you need. Make sure the thickness is the same as the original because you will need to run it through that metal tube towards the fitting . . .

 

[baachitraka]

I stand corrected my lamp rating is 75 W.

 

[Trask]

Interesting thread as I’m in the same boat as OP — a Ic Color that needs rewiring. I tried it without rewiring and proved to myself the inherent value of circuit breakers —- the wire was fractured in several places and shorted. I too would like to restore it to original spec, but wiring directly to the head as a first step makes sense. Good luck with your project, and let us know how it goes.

 

[Loren Sattler]

I rewired mine (to the timer only, not to the switch under the base) with 3 conductor wire typically used for an outdoor type extension cord. Sixteen or eighteen gage wire is more than sufficient for the load of a light bulb. Great enlarger.

 

[joby]

I rewired mine (to the timer only, not to the switch under the base) with 3 conductor wire typically used for an outdoor type extension cord. Sixteen or eighteen gage wire is more than sufficient for the load of a light bulb. Great enlarger.

well, this is exactly what i did. the bright orange looks pretty nifty on top too

mine came with a 150w bulb that still works. good to know that replacements are still made.

it was a tight fit through the metal post that goes to the bulb, but it works fine. it cleaned up veeery nicely. i will post a photo shortly before i put it through its paces.

thank you for the help, all!

 

[joby]

 

[Hilo]

I stand corrected my lamp rating is 75 W.

Yes, the 75 watt lamp is fine too, in particular when you do prints no larger than 30X40cm (12X16). I print a lot of 50X60cm and this needs the 150 watt lamps for sure.

Nice looking 1c !! A suggestion for the black paint (taken from my Leitz repairman who worked for them most of his life): you can first clean it with a moist piece of cloth. Then you prepare in an empty jam jar: some clear domestic benzine (white spirits or perhaps this is called Naphtha where you are), about 50cc and you add to that 4 - 5 drops of normal oil (Handy oil . . . nothing special). Take a small to medium sized paint brush, mix the benzine with the oil, press the brush to the inside of the jar so less of the mix is in the brush and just apply this to the black paint. The benzine will evaporate in a couple of minutes, the oil will stay and make it look like it is new . . . Just be careful not to have a dripping wet brush, you do not want this mix to go everywhere.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I just wired mine up directly like everyone suggests. I zip tied it to the column too to keep the cord out of the way.

Looks like you have a nice one. Congrats!

 

[joby]

Yes, the 75 watt lamp is fine too, in particular when you do prints no larger than 30X40cm (12X16). I print a lot of 50X60cm and this needs the 150 watt lamps for sure.

Nice looking 1c !! A suggestion for the black paint (taken from my Leitz repairman who worked for them most of his life): you can first clean it with a moist piece of cloth. Then you prepare in an empty jam jar: some clear domestic benzine (white spirits or perhaps this is called Naphtha where you are), about 50cc and you add to that 4 - 5 drops of normal oil (Handy oil . . . nothing special). Take a small to medium sized paint brush, mix the benzine with the oil, press the brush to the inside of the jar so less of the mix is in the brush and just apply this to the black paint. The benzine will evaporate in a couple of minutes, the oil will stay and make it look like it is new . . . Just be careful not to have a dripping wet brush, you do not want this mix to go everywhere.

thank you for the tip! i already wiped it all down with a damp cloth, but some slight dust remains. this seems like a more elegant solution than the "thin film of vaseline" suggested in the manual...

it's a very well built enlarger. the focusing will take some getting used to as i'm used to using a knob on the side to adjust. not quite sure how to position myself when viewing through the grain focuser and twisting the focus just yet.. i'm sure i'll get used to it.

does anyone have any recommendations for a 75w bulb for this specific enlarger? id like to do more 5x7s with this enlarger and the 150 seems like it would be overkill for that. my times (with a filter in the tray) were between 10-20 seconds, i figure 5x7 would yield too short times.

 

[baachitraka]

Get it to focus using the stiff ring and then adjust the knob on the side for fine tuning.

 

[baachitraka]

I am yet to experiment with Opal LED lamps with 6500K, then I can go higher wattage without spending too much on energy bill.

 

[AgX]

If one insists on a braided cable: Such has on the spares markets in white or checkerd for drying irons here all time. The last years they became popular again for lighting and thus other colours emerged again.

https://www.amazon.de/Stoffkabel-Textilkabel-Lampenkabel-Leuchtenkabel-Schwarzkabel/dp/B06WW6Z72Q

 

[Hilo]

does anyone have any recommendations for a 75w bulb for this specific enlarger? id like to do more 5x7s with this enlarger and the 150 seems like it would be overkill for that. my times (with a filter in the tray) were between 10-20 seconds, i figure 5x7 would yield too short times. View attachment 193384

This is what you need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PH211-PH-2...221626?hash=item1e90d9f37a:g:q6wAAOSwbqpTzZQX

 

[joby]

Get it to focus using the stiff ring and then adjust the knob on the side for fine tuning.

i don't believe i have such a knob on mine, i took another look this morning, strange.

 

[baachitraka]

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.de/images/6/66/Focomat_I_c_Anleitung.pdf

Page 8-9, the one which is marked 'e' is for fine tuning the focus.

 

[BMbikerider]

The Lietz enlarger will have a screw base fitting lamp, I don't know about in the USA but I have been able source a 15w Opel LED lamp with a colour temp of 6500 degree kelvin. The equivalent out put is equal to an 80w tungsten bulb. This fits directly into my enlarger with no problem. The condenser is the original and gives a completely even light output.

The replacement wire you could use is one that can handle quite a low loading. No more than 5amp is needed and they should be readily available at a decent hardware shop. Connected directly to the timer, there is little problem with making it to work and away you go.

If the lamp of whatever type shows uneven lighting, the central column is adjustable to help you find the optimum position

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Here is the bulb you need-

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/74800-REG/Wiko_PH211_Lamp_75.html

You may read on the interwebs that you need a short neck bulb that is rare, but that is not the case. The regular ph211 works fine.

It sounds like you aren't aware that your enlarger has the ability to autofocus. To set it up, you need to put the head up to around 10x enlargement then focus using the helical (and use one of the tabs to lock it in place). Next put it down to around 3-5x and adjust it using the thumbscrew on the side that pushes on the cam. To adjust the thumbscrew you will need to loosen the setscrew. Go back and forth a few times and it will be all set up.

One thing to mention before you start the process is if you are going to use the Saunders easel in the picture you will need to set the enlarger at the appropriate height on the column. Measure the thickness of the easel, then the enlarger needs to be set on the column the measured thickness above the bottom hole in the column. The column should have two holes. The bottom hole is for printing straight on the baseboard, and the top hole is for using a Leica easel which is 1" thick. You will end up with the head in between these two holes.

Hope that helps!

 

[joby]

Here is the bulb you need-

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/74800-REG/Wiko_PH211_Lamp_75.html

You may read on the interwebs that you need a short neck bulb that is rare, but that is not the case. The regular ph211 works fine.

It sounds like you aren't aware that your enlarger has the ability to autofocus. To set it up, you need to put the head up to around 10x enlargement then focus using the helical (and use one of the tabs to lock it in place). Next put it down to around 3-5x and adjust it using the thumbscrew on the side that pushes on the cam. To adjust the thumbscrew you will need to loosen the setscrew. Go back and forth a few times and it will be all set up.

One thing to mention before you start the process is if you are going to use the Saunders easel in the picture you will need to set the enlarger at the appropriate height on the column. Measure the thickness of the easel, then the enlarger needs to be set on the column the measured thickness above the bottom hole in the column. The column should have two holes. The bottom hole is for printing straight on the baseboard, and the top hole is for using a Leica easel which is 1" thick. You will end up with the head in between these two holes.

Hope that helps!

thanks! i was aware of the autofocus capabilities. the previous owner actually used it with a saunders and el-nikkor which i have both, and the autofocus seems close-ish as is, though the head is resting on the top pin on the column. i'm not sure if he had the autofocus calibrated for that setup or just readjusted for each enlargement factor.

is the autofocus calibration procedure outlined in the manual (and by you) the same for lenses other than the focotars? i haven't been able to determine this searching around.

i'm so used to non-autofocus enlargers that the fact that the focus stays in the ballpark when changing enlargement factor slightly for cropping purposes is very nice. it would be nice to fully calibrate the autofocus, though.