Leicaflex SL2 vs Canon F1

[Deleted member 88956]

Note the OP's line I quoted as that is the reason I suggested the FTB and not the EF.

BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .

Just as curious would go right back to you. You stated a problem w cds cel and I stated it is placem so well it meters extrema well.

Please be aware that the Leica SL2 meter requires the long discontinued 1.35v mercury battery (PX625), so you will need to use a Wein Cell MRB625 zinc-air battery, 1.4v hearing aid battery and o-ring, or an MR-9 adapter that reduces the voltage for a silver oxide 386 or equivalent battery from 1.55v to 1.35v for accurate meter readings.

I have addressed this part earlier on, this is NOT an issue, unless someone wants to make one out of it. Same battery is required by F1 and F1n, don't forget that.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .

Not getting into words game here, call it what you want and I guess you seem to think all in camera meters are either good or not, nothing in between. No idea which world you live in, but I don't subscribe to black and white evaluation of anything.

SL2 has a great in built meter. Whoever does not like CDS cell this is not a camera to consider, simple as that. Still, I could name a number of cameras that do not produce equal measurements of exact same scene, but that is actually just a well know fact.

As for FTB vs. EF, EF is closest brother to F1, FTb is far from it. But this could go on with end.

 

[woodlandSerenade]

Both F1n (the second F1n) and the F1N AE are fully mechinal cameras, with various metered and unmetered finders

Just a minor correction, the F-1N AE / New is not a fully mechanical camera. The shutter speeds slower than sync (1/90) are electronically regulated, and will all fire at 1/90 without a battery and working electronics system.

 

[Les Sarile]

Not getting into words game here, call it what you want and I guess you seem to think all in camera meters are either good or not, nothing in between. No idea which world you live in, but I don't subscribe to black and white evaluation of anything.

SL2 has a great in built meter. Whoever does not like CDS cell this is not a camera to consider, simple as that. Still, I could name a number of cameras that do not produce equal measurements of exact same scene, but that is actually just a well know fact.

As for FTB vs. EF, EF is closest brother to F1, FTb is far from it. But this could go on with end.

Don't let your SL2 enthusiasm cloud your judgement here as there are no word games at play. I simply stated a fact that you yourself acknowledged, "Responsiveness may be true, ".

The FTB is simply a fully manual Canon body that meets the OP's stated requirements as opposed to the autoexposure capable EF. The OP further states an interchangeable viewfinder was not necessary so that does makes the FTB closer to an F1. I have no benefit if the OP chooses to go the SL2 or any other camera that may not even be represented here.

 

[Les Sarile]

Just a minor correction, the F-1N AE / New is not a fully mechanical camera. The shutter speeds slower than sync (1/90) are electronically regulated, and will all fire at 1/90 without a battery and working electronics system.

Interestingly, the dead battery in the New F1 has to be physically removed first. Maybe there's a switch actuated?

 

[Mackinaw]

Interestingly, the dead battery in the New F1 has to be physically removed first. Maybe there's a switch actuated?

Yes, that's exactly it.

 

[Huss]

BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .

Accurate to 1 stop, 1/2 stop, accurate to 1/3 stop etc.

 

[Huss]

These are the best battery voltage adapters. Very happy w mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130646083632

 

[Les Sarile]

Accurate to 1 stop, 1/2 stop, accurate to 1/3 stop etc.

Likely no more or less accurate then any other properly performing CDS equipped manual exposure camera typical of the era. As I understand it -as CDS meters goes, response times from very bright to very dark scenes can take some time. No biggie if user is aware.

 

[faberryman]

Accurate to 1 stop, 1/2 stop, accurate to 1/3 stop etc.

...in the ballpark, pretty close, good enough, if you screw up the developing exposure won't matter, fixable in Photoshop, that is what I intended all along, what's this about mercury batteries?, I prefer a dense negative, film has a lot of latitude, meter error compensates for shutter speed error, my personal exposure index is about half box speed, these are not the meter readings you are looking for...

Seriously, I am sure that Leica SL2 metering is fine.

 

[flavio81]

My experience is of one. But do an internet search. A-1, Ae-1, T series all have a high failure rate with shutters and giving error codes..

Neither of these cameras are able to give you ANY kind of error code save for perhaps the T90. So your internet search brought up some tales or stories that can be readily dismissed.

You should take a second look at the things you are reading on the internet. "High failure rate with shutters"? What kind of wild fantasy is that? The shutter in all A-series cameras is mostly the same and extremely reliable, an extremely proven design made from 1976 to 1985 and present in dozens of millions of cameras. I've yet to find an A-series camera with an actual shutter failure.

Same for the EMAS shutter in the T70: a reliable shutter. The T90 suffers from degraded foam that can cause problem in the shutter. It can be repaired with no spare parts needed.

Moreover "T-series" means tying up in the same level three cameras that are very distinct in quality of construction and reliability: T50, T70, T80, and T90.

As for the A-series camera, my experience as a camera repairman is as follows:

AE-1 : Resilient electronics, tungsten wire tends to break rendering metering useless - a mechanical issue
AE-1P: Resilient electronics overall
A-1: Resilient electronics, many more switches than usual can get corroded and cause problems such as increased battery consumption -- usually an electrical issue. Also, tedious to disassemble.
all A-series: Mirror governor squeak caused by lack of lubrication -- a mechanical issue, lack of maintenance
all A-series: Shutter magnet dirty -- a mechanical issue, lack of maintenance.

Any of these cameras, as any other camera with electronic control, relies on electrical switches that need to be periodically cleaned and adjusted to work properly. Something that is as easy (or even easier) as doing routine maintenance of a mechanical piece such as a speed governor.

All in all Canon cameras often have very resilient/reliable electronics. Your glorification of Nikon cameras is very funny, precisely some of the cameras with the worst reliable electronics i've seen are the Nikon EM and FA...

 

[Les Sarile]

Neither of these cameras are able to give you ANY kind of error code save for perhaps the T90

Perhaps the Canon AE-1 squeak is in morse code . . .

BTW, have you amased factory manuals or just learn as you go? Pretty soon I will want to start cracking some of these open.

 

[MattKing]

I always like these threads where people argue about whose child is "best".
FWIW, there are enough old cameras of these types out there that I would make my decision on local availability and what appeals to me at the present time - mostly paying attention to things like ergonomics and the viewing system.
That way you can get out and use your choice.
It is a different question if you are paying large money for new.
In the 35mm SLR world I made my decision back in the 1970s and have been greatly satisfied with a near half century of Olympus OM equipment use. So clearly the choice presented by the OP wouldn't be for me.

 

[flavio81]

Perhaps the Canon AE-1 squeak is in morse code . . .

BTW, have you amased factory manuals or just learn as you go? Pretty soon I will want to start cracking some of these open.

The factory manuals are widely available on the net. You can request me any via PM and i'll give you a link.

 

[eli griggs]

This is one solid bookmark you need in your task bar.

https://www.butkus.org

Too many manuals to list here, for all kinds of kit.

Cheers

 

[CMoore]

Wow...........this really heated up.

If i was the OP had had Canon Lens, i would just go with (if it is important) the mechanical SLR, from Canon, that have been mentioned.
I had great experience owning the AE1-P and A-1.
I also own the F1-New so sold the A-Series just because i had way too many 35mm SLR

 

[George Mann]

All in all Canon cameras often have very resilient/reliable electronics. Your glorification of Nikon cameras is very funny, precisely some of the cameras with the worst reliable electronics i've seen are the Nikon EM and FA...

Yes, that whole generation has potential problems. But the generation before and after are the best anyone has produced.

 

[Huss]

I always like these threads where people argue about whose child is "best".
FWIW, there are enough old cameras of these types out there that I would make my decision on local availability and what appeals to me at the present time - mostly paying attention to things like ergonomics and the viewing system.
That way you can get out and use your choice.
It is a different question if you are paying large money for new.
In the 35mm SLR world I made my decision back in the 1970s and have been greatly satisfied with a near half century of Olympus OM equipment use. So clearly the choice presented by the OP wouldn't be for me.

All I got from this is you made the wrong call 50 years ago.

;p

 

[MattKing]

All I got from this is you made the wrong call 50 years ago.

;p

But it was an informed call back then - around that time I was selling lots of Canon, some Leica and a reasonable amount of Olympus too.
And the Olympus OM line was then and remains now particularly suited to my wants and needs.
Bought new in the 1980s, and still serving me well, along with both earlier and more recently acquired brethren:

The film box tag was put into the frame to celebrate/mourn the last ever roll of Kodachrome - of many - that were run through it.
FWIW, the OM bodies suit well someone who uses his left hand to do most things with a camera - something I need.
All of which is to say that I believe the most important thing is to find a camera that suits you!

 

[CMoore]

But it was an informed call back then - around that time I was selling lots of Canon, some Leica and a reasonable amount of Olympus too.
And the Olympus OM line was then and remains now particularly suited to my wants and needs.
Bought new in the 1980s, and still serving me well, along with both earlier and more recently acquired brethren:
View attachment 293300
The film box tag was put into the frame to celebrate/mourn the last ever roll of Kodachrome - of many - that were run through it.
FWIW, the OM bodies suit well someone who uses his left hand to do most things with a camera - something I need.
All of which is to say that I believe the most important thing is to find a camera that suits you!

Is that an OM2.?
Does it use a different battery than the OM1n.?

I ask because i have an OM1n that i had modified to use modern batteries. I probably only achieved to prep the camera for a new owner as i STILL have too many 35mm SLR and need to sell this as well.
Oh Well

 

[MattKing]

It is an OM-2s/OM-2SP (depending on the market it was sold into).
The OM-1 and OM-1n were the only two that used the mercury batteries. Every other OM body uses silver oxide batteries.
The OM-2s was rather ground-breaking: spot meter plus off the film shutter priority metering plus a relatively simple program mode.
Plus the same interchangeable screens and other system camera capabilities that the OM-2 and OM-2n offered.
Some of them early in the production run had a problem with a circuit board, and all of them use more batteries than would be ideal, but I never had a problem carrying an extra pair of MS-76 batteries (as they were originally referred to) with me.
That camera has done a lot of travelling with me, shot many rolls of film, and required exactly one repair - when the mirror adhesive gave way about 33 or so years into its life. A bit of new glue and my camera repair technician had it fixed in no time.

 

[CMoore]

It is an OM-2s/OM-2SP (depending on the market it was sold into).
The OM-1 and OM-1n were the only two that used the mercury batteries. Every other OM body uses silver oxide batteries.
The OM-2s was rather ground-breaking: spot meter plus off the film shutter priority metering plus a relatively simple program mode.
Plus the same interchangeable screens and other system camera capabilities that the OM-2 and OM-2n offered.
Some of them early in the production run had a problem with a circuit board, and all of them use more batteries than would be ideal, but I never had a problem carrying an extra pair of MS-76 batteries (as they were originally referred to) with me.
That camera has done a lot of travelling with me, shot many rolls of film, and required exactly one repair - when the mirror adhesive gave way about 33 or so years into its life. A bit of new glue and my camera repair technician had it fixed in no time.

I was not the Photographer/Camera Guy that you and many others here Were/Are, but...........I remember reading good reviews about the OM2.
But NOW.......perhaps it is just the 4-5-6 threads i have read on APUG, but the camera seems to get "Odd Criticism" here.?
Trying to remember WHY.
Is it because the 1 and 3 were "All Mechanical;" and the 2 gets some "Niche Hate" for being electronic.?
I don't know, maybe i am imagining this and my comments are all foreign to you.

Thanks for the battery info.

On a side note.............I Really LIKE my OM1n and would happily keep it, i just have too many of these 35mm boxes laying around.
I probably do not, really, have the experience to say, but it seems Olympus is an underappreciated brand.
I guess people say the same about Minolta and Pentax.
Nikon and Canon were such heavyweights for a time.
Thanks Again

 

[btaylor]

All I got from this is you made the wrong call 50 years ago.

;p

Drat! Now you tell me- like Matt I guess I made the wrong call 50 years ago as well. To make it worse I added 4 more OM bodies and a pile of Zuiko glass. The horror!

 

[Huss]

Drat! Now you tell me- like Matt I guess I made the wrong call 50 years ago as well. To make it worse I added 4 more OM bodies and a pile of Zuiko glass. The horror!

As long as you know now.

 

[Huss]

p.s. my first 'real' camera was an OM-10. That little nugget was my pride and joy!