Just as curious would go right back to you. You stated a problem w cds cel and I stated it is placem so well it meters extrema well.Note the OP's line I quoted as that is the reason I suggested the FTB and not the EF.
BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .
I have addressed this part earlier on, this is NOT an issue, unless someone wants to make one out of it. Same battery is required by F1 and F1n, don't forget that.Please be aware that the Leica SL2 meter requires the long discontinued 1.35v mercury battery (PX625), so you will need to use a Wein Cell MRB625 zinc-air battery, 1.4v hearing aid battery and o-ring, or an MR-9 adapter that reduces the voltage for a silver oxide 386 or equivalent battery from 1.55v to 1.35v for accurate meter readings.
Not getting into words game here, call it what you want and I guess you seem to think all in camera meters are either good or not, nothing in between. No idea which world you live in, but I don't subscribe to black and white evaluation of anything.BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .
Just a minor correction, the F-1N AE / New is not a fully mechanical camera. The shutter speeds slower than sync (1/90) are electronically regulated, and will all fire at 1/90 without a battery and working electronics system.Both F1n (the second F1n) and the F1N AE are fully mechinal cameras, with various metered and unmetered finders
Not getting into words game here, call it what you want and I guess you seem to think all in camera meters are either good or not, nothing in between. No idea which world you live in, but I don't subscribe to black and white evaluation of anything.
SL2 has a great in built meter. Whoever does not like CDS cell this is not a camera to consider, simple as that. Still, I could name a number of cameras that do not produce equal measurements of exact same scene, but that is actually just a well know fact.
As for FTB vs. EF, EF is closest brother to F1, FTb is far from it. But this could go on with end.
Just a minor correction, the F-1N AE / New is not a fully mechanical camera. The shutter speeds slower than sync (1/90) are electronically regulated, and will all fire at 1/90 without a battery and working electronics system.
Interestingly, the dead battery in the New F1 has to be physically removed first. Maybe there's a switch actuated?
BTW, appreciate the enthusiasm for the Leicaflex SL2's "extreme" meter accuracy but curious how you qualify that. Afterall, meters are either accuracte or not . . .
Accurate to 1 stop, 1/2 stop, accurate to 1/3 stop etc.
...in the ballpark, pretty close, good enough, if you screw up the developing exposure won't matter, fixable in Photoshop, that is what I intended all along, what's this about mercury batteries?, I prefer a dense negative, film has a lot of latitude, meter error compensates for shutter speed error, my personal exposure index is about half box speed, these are not the meter readings you are looking for...Accurate to 1 stop, 1/2 stop, accurate to 1/3 stop etc.
My experience is of one. But do an internet search. A-1, Ae-1, T series all have a high failure rate with shutters and giving error codes..
Neither of these cameras are able to give you ANY kind of error code save for perhaps the T90
Perhaps the Canon AE-1 squeak is in morse code . . .
BTW, have you amased factory manuals or just learn as you go? Pretty soon I will want to start cracking some of these open.
All in all Canon cameras often have very resilient/reliable electronics. Your glorification of Nikon cameras is very funny, precisely some of the cameras with the worst reliable electronics i've seen are the Nikon EM and FA...
I always like these threads where people argue about whose child is "best".
FWIW, there are enough old cameras of these types out there that I would make my decision on local availability and what appeals to me at the present time - mostly paying attention to things like ergonomics and the viewing system.
That way you can get out and use your choice.
It is a different question if you are paying large money for new.
In the 35mm SLR world I made my decision back in the 1970s and have been greatly satisfied with a near half century of Olympus OM equipment use. So clearly the choice presented by the OP wouldn't be for me.
But it was an informed call back then - around that time I was selling lots of Canon, some Leica and a reasonable amount of Olympus too.All I got from this is you made the wrong call 50 years ago.
;p
Is that an OM2.?But it was an informed call back then - around that time I was selling lots of Canon, some Leica and a reasonable amount of Olympus too.
And the Olympus OM line was then and remains now particularly suited to my wants and needs.
Bought new in the 1980s, and still serving me well, along with both earlier and more recently acquired brethren:
View attachment 293300
The film box tag was put into the frame to celebrate/mourn the last ever roll of Kodachrome - of many - that were run through it.
FWIW, the OM bodies suit well someone who uses his left hand to do most things with a camera - something I need.
All of which is to say that I believe the most important thing is to find a camera that suits you!
I was not the Photographer/Camera Guy that you and many others here Were/Are, but...........I remember reading good reviews about the OM2.It is an OM-2s/OM-2SP (depending on the market it was sold into).
The OM-1 and OM-1n were the only two that used the mercury batteries. Every other OM body uses silver oxide batteries.
The OM-2s was rather ground-breaking: spot meter plus off the film shutter priority metering plus a relatively simple program mode.
Plus the same interchangeable screens and other system camera capabilities that the OM-2 and OM-2n offered.
Some of them early in the production run had a problem with a circuit board, and all of them use more batteries than would be ideal, but I never had a problem carrying an extra pair of MS-76 batteries (as they were originally referred to) with me.
That camera has done a lot of travelling with me, shot many rolls of film, and required exactly one repair - when the mirror adhesive gave way about 33 or so years into its life. A bit of new glue and my camera repair technician had it fixed in no time.
Drat! Now you tell me- like Matt I guess I made the wrong call 50 years ago as well. To make it worse I added 4 more OM bodies and a pile of Zuiko glass. The horror!All I got from this is you made the wrong call 50 years ago.
;p
Drat! Now you tell me- like Matt I guess I made the wrong call 50 years ago as well. To make it worse I added 4 more OM bodies and a pile of Zuiko glass. The horror!
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