Leica rangefinder appreciation

[snusmumriken]

I always advance the rest of the way and fire the shutter before loading film, because the last roll was removed after a partial wind, normally.

That’s not the answer then!

 

[Xylo]

Why on earth would anyone need a template? And it takes literally seconds to get the film on the spool and in the camera.

I'm never comfy trying to wrangle a bit of film in there, especially if it involves using a business card to spread open the pressure plate like some people do (yikes!).
As for hand cutting the leader, yes it works. But I'd rather have a bunch of neatly cut leaders for some reason as I feel it looks much more "professional" for some reason

One thing I find with mine is that the take-up spool's tab always requires a bit of persuasion before it will accept the film. That's a bit annoying.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

I'm never comfy trying to wrangle a bit of film in there, especially if it involves using a business card to spread open the pressure plate like some people do (yikes!).
As for hand cutting the leader, yes it works. But I'd rather have a bunch of neatly cut leaders for some reason as I feel it looks much more "professional" for some reason

One thing I find with mine is that the take-up spool's tab always requires a bit of persuasion before it will accept the film. That's a bit annoying.

My take-up spool on my 1949 IIIC (original spool) is tight, also. I have to work the film end under the lip and mash it as far as it will go.

I use a thin plastic washer on the knob on the bottom plate to push up the film canister about 1 mm. In the past, I also had the problem of the image area being down into the sprocket holes because the commercial canister was not the same size as the Leitz reloadable ones. Note how the IIIG camera had a metal tab on the bottom plate that, I assume, pushed the film up to the right position. (I have not used a IIIG so I am not sure if that tab works.)

 

[Xylo]

Note how the IIIG camera had a metal tab on the bottom plate that, I assume, pushed the film up to the right position.

I'm looking at the plate for the IC and there is no such tab, only the lock mechanism.
While designing a camera, I did measure that the plastic bulk loading canisters were a tiny bit longer than the metal ones, so that might be a solution.

 

[mshchem]

The Barnack, screw mount cameras are so easy with the leader cut to spec and the exact length of leader, exact number of sprocket holes showing, I think 2 ? A template makes leader trimming so easy.

M4 and beyond tulip is easy, however still takes some getting used to.

 

[georg16nik]

Ok. I have exactly 1 FILCA and have never used it - but I decided to give what you're doing a try. I took the cassette apart - that was the first mistake. I now realize that the thing should be left together and you should push the film into the little slot in the core. I don't know how you'd find that little slot with the core in the cassette while in total darkness.
I spooled a couple of feet of film onto the core and then tried to put the cassette back together. It went in the inside part easily enough but getting the film through the outside part was very difficult. I had to cut the film on an angle to convince it to do it. I think I ruined about 3 inches of film in that effort.
But now it's in a Leica III and I'll see if the image frame no longer touches the sprocket holes (which it does with all regular cassettes).

Taking the FILCA apart is how I do it and main reason is that I bulk load my cassettes from long rolls – 400 feet or longer.

Once I get in the darkroom, first I take the FILCA apart and then I measure ~ 36 frames from the 400 feet roll by stretching my arms to “measure” the length – holding the 400 feet roll with one hand and the pulling the end of the film with the other hand, then I cut the film to the desired length with scissors.

Depending on the length of your arms, you should end up with 36 to 40 frames.

So, with the film strip ready to load, and the end of the strip cut-out with scissors (so that it feeds and locks inside the center spool “rat-trap”)

• I wind the film on the center spool(core) by hand
• I reassemble the 3 parts of the cassette
• I open the gate to pull out the end of the film and close it afterwards.

All steps in complete darkness.
Takes about 20 minutes for 10 to 15 cassettes.

 

[Don_ih]

I take the FILCA apart

I reloaded the one I have yesterday, also from a bulk roll. I left it assembled and it took about a minute to get the film, cut the end, shove it in the slot, and wind the spool by hand to fill it.

My only problem with the thing is how easy it seems to open up.

The frames are nicely centred between the rows of sprocket holes when used in a III, though. So that's good. Not that my framing is usually accurate enough to matter....

 

[georg16nik]

...

My only problem with the thing is how easy it seems to open up.

...

Sounds like your FILCA spring plate is too loose / bent out of the proper tension required to keep the cassette locked.
The loose spring plate should be fast and easy to service by a nearby metal/mechanic shop.

 

[Don_ih]

Sounds like your FILCA spring plate is too loose / bent out of the proper tension required to keep the cassette locked.
The loose spring plate should be fast and easy to service by a nearby metal/mechanic shop.

I had no idea there was anything that locked it - I've only now used it once and paid no attention to it before then. I'll look it over after I finish the film that's in it.