Try a hand-held meter. Does wonders.
Been there, done that, but sadly didn’t experience any wonders. Also, having accessory kit is alien to my nature. If it can be built into the camera, and still leave me in control, that’s perfect.
Try a hand-held meter. Does wonders.
Sorry to hear that. Seems limiting, but it's your choice, go for it.Been there, done that, but sadly didn’t experience any wonders. Also, having accessory kit is alien to my nature. If it can be built into the camera, and still leave me in control, that’s perfect.
Evidently your experience has been different. I'm curious to know what it is that you find advantageous?Sorry to hear that. Seems limiting, but it's your choice, go for it.
A hand-held reflective meter is not hard to use and there are many small ones that are not hard to carry in your pocket. Not using a camera with a built-in meter eliminates cameras such as the Hasselblad, Rolleiflex TLRs (most that do have meters are older Selenium cell ones that no longer work or are inaccurate), any LF camera and numerous older cameras.Evidently your experience has been different. I'm curious to know what it is that you find advantageous?
I've always liked the logic of incident meter readings, but in practice the subject is over there while I am over here, so it doesn't seem to help.
Not using a camera with a built-in meter eliminates cameras such as the Hasselblad, Rolleiflex TLRs...
I was replying to the previous post and that member's post #49, where he states that he would be lost without a built-in meter.No, it doesn't. If you use a camera with a meter you are in no way prevented to use a camera without one.
Hey, it's an option.Great, the only thing left now is to bring a Pentax spot meter (Zone VI modified, of course) into a thread about Leica M6 meter repairability.
Not any more irrational than most threads.This thread has degraded into irrationality.
1. Camera with working light meter. OK, use it. Or use an external hand-held light meter if you want to. Done, issue closed.
2. Leica (or Rolleiflex, etc.,) with no light meter. Use an external light meter. It can be shoe-mounted if reflected metering is suitable. 10+ compact models are sold now, and they work well.
3. M6 with broken light meter. Have it fixed or use an external meter.
4. No light meter, use Sunny 16 rule. We hear this superior pandering all the time ("I don't need a meter, I can guess perfectly.") Good for you. Just go buy a light meter and use it.

I haven’t used a meter in a long time. Sunny-16, experience, and a good compensating developer takes care of most any variation.
Meters are easier to fool than the above, and they slow the process with 35mm photography. I do use a spot meter shooting sheet film, 4x5 and bigger.
This from an earlier post. I suggest checking with them.My apologies for sparking off this disintegration of the thread. I only intended to emphasize how much I want to keep the meter of my M6 working.![]()
+1. Aesthetically, I prefer cameras without meters. That's why I, too, prefer the Leica M4-P: an M6 without any lights flashing in my eye. The only film cameras I use with a built-in meter are the Nikon FE2 and FM3a, because they have analogue match-needles. Even my spot meter, I use sometimes for MF, is analogue.
This from an earlier post. I suggest checking with them.
"Original classic M6 meter can be replaced (Amsterdam Camera Repairs is doing the replacements and supplying replacement boards to 3rd party repair shops). Meters in M6 TTL can not be repaired".
My apologies for sparking off this disintegration of the thread. I only intended to emphasize how much I want to keep the meter of my M6 working.![]()
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