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Large print - uneven development

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MarkL

MarkL

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We are going to prepare a power point presentation over the next couple of weeks of our facility for a few meetings that I will be showing our work.
Once that is done I will post the link..
I am really happy with the sink as it helps workflow tremendously.

Great Bob. A picture is worth a thousand words. Hope to catch a glimpse of your print washing routine as well!
 
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MarkL

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Just wanted to update the thread because it appears my problem is solved. I attached a scan of a section of a print with the subtle but noticeable vertical streaking in the sky.

Evidently the problem is defective paper. After 23 print/test runs trying different ideas and techniques, my problem disappeared immediately after I decided to cut the print out of the mural roll 90 degrees to the way I had been cutting it. In other words the inconsistent density is apparently in the emulsion, running in lines the length of the roll. In that case the streaks must still be in my 90 degree corrected prints, but they’re not noticeable because of the streaky cloud formations (see attachment).

Maybe there’s another explanation I haven’t thought of, but I think I’ve ruled everything else out. Are emulsion coating issues very common (or could X-raying of imported paper do this)?

Thanks, and hope the thread helps out others trying large prints – it’s great fun and really not hard to do even in my 6x11 darkroom!

Mark


Uneven Sky.jpg
 

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Mark;

Your problem was hard to diagnose from the earlier posts, but I think you nailed it here. It is probably a coating defect. But I hasten to add that it is rare with Kodak, Ilford and Fuji products. From posts here it is more common among the 2nd and 3rd tier manufacturers. Examples of this kind of defect have been posted here by myself and others from some of those 2nd and 3rd tier manufacturers.

You appear to have a valid complaint.

PE
 

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...my problem disappeared immediately after I decided to cut the print out of the mural roll 90 degrees to the way I had been cutting it...

That's what I already suggested, no...? (in my first post on the subject)
 
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That's what I already suggested, no...? (in my first post on the subject)

Yes Sparky, and you were right! I was reluctant to blame it on the paper and not my technique... There's a lot of bumbling and fumbling involved learning how to handle curly mural paper in a small darkroom. I uttered a few choice phrases from time to time for sure.

After several darkroom sessions and about 10 yards of paper working out this problem, I really got a lot of practice and worked some bugs out, thanks to all the APUG'ers who chimed in. Scrolling in a tray or trough is much preferable to see-sawing with a roller weight to hold the paper in the trough. That's too much like exercise for me. Someday I hope to post up an article/pictures/video on what I've learned to help others with smaller darkrooms get started. All size prints are cool but hey, why shouldn't a good photograph have the same presence and scale as the average painting if you feel like it?

Mark
 

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Hi Mark,

Read the thread with great interest (I also have a small darkroom, perhaps even smaller (about 2 by 2 meters, odd shaped).

2 questions: perhaps I missed is, but what paper did you exactly use?

How did you handle the projection, you made an extra large baseboard/easel under your enlarger?

Best,

Cor
 
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Hello Cor,

The paper I'm using is the wonderful Emaks glossy graded. I'm hoping it's a temporary manufacturing glitch in the order I had. It tones to a beautiful purple brown in selenium and the price is right.

My enlarger is a Beseler 45. I removed the baseboard and baseboard attachement arms. I then built a narrow shelf to support the chasis up a bit higher. I placed the shelf as high on the wall as I could without having the head hit the ceiling at maximum height. The shelf is probably 12" above my countertop. This is great also because now that my countertop is free of the enlarger, it extends under the enlarger to accomodate moving a 20x24 easel around freely and also I can put items under this shelf.

The work "countertop" section is removable for when I make prints larger than 20"x24". I framed it with 2x4 lumber and topped it with medium density fiberboard, which is thick, smooth and does not warp. The countertop section is fairly heavy but I have a carrying handle on the underside of it so I can slide it out and move it from the room. So when I remove the countertop I get maybe another 18" to 24" to the second level surface. With a 135 lens (and maybe a 150, haven't checked) I can make up to a 32x40.

In a small darkroom dispensing 42" wide paper from the roll, with it's tendancy to curl back up, is the hard part to do alone, but I'm a stuborn SOB. I found out it's frustrating to take the roll out of the bag and box and replace it every time you want to make another exposure. So what I did is make a paper safe box with a hinged drop-down door. You could mount this on the wall or else facing you right at the lower work surface like I did. There is a large wooden dowel inside it, onto which you put the tube of paper so that it dispenses out like paper towels! Just open the safe box door, pull out the paper you want and tack it down (it curls like crazy) and use a utility knife and a straight edge to cut a piece off. This lower work surface that you'll be enlarging onto is topped with homesote so you can put tacks in it. Also helpful are pieces of flat 1" aluminum stock as easel blades, which double as paper-cutting straight edges as well.

It would probably be easier to take a few pics of the way my pea brain has figured to do it than to try to explain it. I'm really just getting started with this but there are several tricks and tips. Let me know if you're serious about it and I'll get you some pics. Now that I'm comfortable scrolling paper I discovered that it's perfectly fine to use a couple quarts of solution in a rain gutter and just scroll it immediately above the gutter. I have a 6 foot sink and I can do large prints in gutters more easily than 20x24's in trays.

Mark
 

Cor

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Hi Mark,

Thanks for the detialed discription! You are quite brave and resourcefull..:wink:.. I am afraid my darkroom is too small for such adventures (my enlarger is realy crammed in a small space, max width would be 60cm). Emaks is made by EFKE, right? If you dig through this forum you'll find many reports on glitches with coating of EFKE products (admittingly mostly film), I hade my share with funny holes on PL100 film)

Last question: what kind of negatives are you enlarging?

thanks & best

Cor
 
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MarkL

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I use 4x5 TMax100 and Efke IR820. The image sample I uploaded is IR820. Here's the full image, with no streaks.

Ice House.jpg

Mark
 

Cor

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Nice image, Mike!

I too like to work with EFKE 820 (aka MACO 820c), I like the film a lot, despite the occasional pinhole and very slow speed,

Best,

Cor


I use 4x5 TMax100 and Efke IR820. The image sample I uploaded is IR820. Here's the full image, with no streaks.

View attachment 9645

Mark
 
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