Both the Fujinon and Nikkor telephotos infinity focus at about 80% of their actual focal length, that helps some. I have the 400mm Fujinon, very good lens.
I also have the 65mm Nkkor, My revenge for all the years I struggled to focus my F8 65mm Super Angulon. I think the Nikkor is slightly retro focus and the actual infinity focus is longer. It came in a recessed lensboard but it doesn't need it.
It's an offer i can't refuse...
Your Symmar-S is a keeper !
I would recomend you to purchase glass slowly, before assembling a kit I'd practice a lot with the symmar 150mm you have.
One shots with what he has, but you only can select your kit properly after you learn what you want from the glasses, and you only will learn what you really want after some extensive practice.
For example, portrait glass is an entire world, please read this https://www.largeformatphotography.info/portrait-lenses/ , you will find that Out of Focus depiction may more important than technical performance, LF delivers sharpness in excess for portraits, but the way you play with the OOF may allow an amazing 3D depth. It's more what you do than the particular glass you use, but you may wnt some nuances from a glass.
In general for LF lenses you consider 3 factors
1) Coverage, a large circle is desired for architecture, but the lens gets slower and/or heavier.
2) Lightweight, desired for the field, but an smaller lens is slower and/or it has an smaller circle.
3) Speed, it can be desired for wet plate and portraiture, but a fast lens is heavier and/or has an smaller coverage
Also you may want smooth Out of Focus, you may get a lens that also covers larger formats in the future, but the large image circle may deliver flare if not using a compendium shade. Also you have to learn about shutters, those available may have not been serviced for decades, you have to learn what shutters you want and how to check their accuracy.
Of course, you also should assemble your kit in a way focals are progressive, with a 30% longer focal in each step, or a 50%. For example you may get a 65-90-120-180-240-360 kit, or perhaps 75-105-150-210-300
then you may want certain great coverage in some focals and a narrower one in others...
What I'm saying is that time is in your side, first you should mature your LF style before you assemble your personal kit, for the moment perhaps I'd buy a single additional lens, better if it's cheap for now.
What i have in mind is 90-150-210-300
I dont shoot interior or landscape very much so maybe 90 will be my widest lens.
210 for portrait and 300 i want to keep it in case i want to move up to 8x10 in the future.
because besides shoot on film i will shoot on wet plate also, so bigger size of plate maybe will be my option later.
And also im interest to have an option to shoot with 617 film back so 90 and 150 is ideal for this
and have never even owned a "normal" 150. My idea of normal for 4x5 is a 250 !
...get a 210 for ...its bigger image circle
+1Buy the lot. Try each lens and see which one(s) you like best, sell the rest at reasonable prices. It's that simple.
FUJINON :
- 90/8
- 210/5.6
- 250/6.3
- 600/12
NIKKOR :
- 65/4
- 300/5.6
- Tele 360/8 Rear lens + Front lens
- Tele 500/11 Rear lens
- Tele 800/12 Rear lens + Front lens
RODENSTOCK :
- Sironar N 150/5.6
- Geronar WA 90/8
SINARON :
- Sinaron S 360/6.8
That's probably a 600T/12 - a telephoto - which doesn't sell for much these days, and not the expensive 600C. None of those lenses are realistic for 8x10 except the Sinaron 360 and the Nikkor 300/5.6.
The 250/6.3 would not be realistic for 8x10 - 7mm wiggle room is nothing; it's the 250/6.7 that works for 8x10.
Rise just for architecture and not for landscape applications? Ever hear of mountains and tall trees?
Don't tell me the Pyrenees have already eroded away!
And why wouldn’t that selection be for aIt looks like a 4x5/ 5x7 lens kit, probably for a Sinar. I've often seen 360mm plasmats on 4x5 Sinar setups. The 250/6.3 and 600/12 are pretty clear giveaways that it wasn't supposed to stretch to 8x10. I wonder what the percentages of people using the 250/6.3 Fujinon on 8x10 are, compared to the 250/6.7 - not high, I'd hazard a guess.
And why wouldn’t that selection be for a
LInhof Kardan, a Cambo, an Arca, a Toyo, a Plaubel or lots of other camera brands?
Lachlan - as you've probably noticed yourself, over on the dedicated LF Forum, the recommendation of the 250/6.7 is so habitually prominent that it's as if the 6.3 version didn't even exist (although it would be versatile for up to 5X7).
Hmmmm.... It has to be said that this is a very well balanced kit, the original owner sported some remarkable wisdom when he gathered this collection, he knew what he was purchasing. It allows from 4x5, 8x10 and even ULF, and it covers very well all general and studio and field shooting. Personally I would not replace a single lens if having that kit. I would value conserving the integrity of the collection, perhaps like if it was a little tribute to the former owner that gathered that collection for you.
It would not be a surpise that those shutters are also ok, somebody owning such a collection probably had the gear in shape, if you had to gather that asset probably you would not be able to avoid owning some "dogs" and faulty shutters.
If you are to take seriously LF for sure and wanting to upgrade to 8x10 then this is a great kit. If you are not to shot 8x10 in the short term and wanting to make cash you may sell some of the expensive 8x10 lenses, like the fantastic 600/12 to take $2000 to $3000, it is a true keeper but if not using it often perhaps it's better investing that cash to assemble a LF darkroom, this is the practical side. We don't know what will happen with prices of old gear in the future, but this is 2020 and still this kind of photography has enthusiasts and artists at work, but the value of the collection may vary (up or down)over time, one has to consider also the investment nature.
While it is a perfect general kit, of course one may make future additions depending on speciaized needs. One may add some old fashion portraiture glass, like an Heliar, or a super symmar xl for extreme achitectural shots.
When I started I also bought the kit of a former Pro, it was 1/3 of the lenses and 1/20 of the value compared to that kit, but it was great to start having the tools gathered by somebody sporting some wisdom in then gear acquisition.
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