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Kodalith Ortho film question

I've used Rodinal at 1:100 for microfilms and got useful grayscale. Not the rich tonality of an ISO 100 conventional film, but definitely a range of gray. I don't recall the time I used, but most likely I used my usual 3 minute agitation cycle, which improves film speed (compared to same developer in conventional agitation) while keeping contrast from blowing out.
 
Back in 2002, I rescued 10, 100 sheet boxes of 4x5, and 2, 100 sheet boxes of 8x10, that were tossed by the then yearbook teacher, when they switched over to digital. Expiry dates from '95 to '98. Perhaps it's time to start playing around with it...I'll mix up some POTA. Hopefully the fog isn't too bad
 

so you're saying about 3 minutes if I use Rodinal 1:100?
 
Don_ih said:
At 1:100, you'll get nothing after 3 minutes. 40 minutes - maybe 30.
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With microfilm (Imagelink from around 2000) I recall my time being around fifteen minutes with agitation every 3rd minute, but I'd have to dig in the Wayback Machine (if it's back up) or check my personal copy of my dev records to be sure.
 
Donald Qualls said:
With microfilm (Imagelink from around 2000) I recall my time being around fifteen minutes with agitation every 3rd minute, but I'd have to dig in the Wayback Machine (if it's back up) or check my personal copy of my dev records to be sure.
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At 1:100, the Rodinal may be spent by 15 minutes.

TheGreatGasMaskMan said:
thinking about trying ISO 10
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You'll get better results photographing lower contrast scenes. Makes for slower shutter speeds, but helps keep highlights from zooming to max density.
 
Don_ih said:
At 1:100, the Rodinal may be spent by 15 minutes.
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Certainly possible, though I was processing 20-24 inch Minolta 16 rolls in not much over two ounces of developer (in my homemade low volume tank) -- I used a time I found online, applied my usual "+40% time, agitate every third minute" to it, and then decided Caffenol LC+C gave better results. In fact, that's probably what I'll try when I finally find a way to expose the ortho halftone film I have on hand (it won't fit a 4x5 film holder, so I have to either find a way to cut it down or come up with another way to hold it in the camera).
 

This is a litho film, not continuous tone. It was used for line work, where only black and white were desired. It would be extremely difficult to get anything like normal negatives from it.
 
Back in the 1960s(?) I used Kodalith sheet film. But I wanted everything reduced to black or clear and used the Kodalith developer because I was making etched parts and printed circuit boards.

(Gad -- sitting here today that seems like the late Bronze Age!!!)
 
When we did posterizing in my high school photography class, we developed the Kodalith in Dektol at print strength (1+2 as I recall, small school and economy was king; we never printed enough in one session to exhaust the print developer) for two or three minutes, same as a print. That got us just a soft edge between the solid black and clear film. I think we also developed sometimes in film strength (1+9) for a similar time to get gray scale, but that's been 50+ years...
 
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