Kodak D-76 Issue

Hatchetman · Sep 23, 2020

Saw a post on Kodak Professional Facebook. Catalog#1058270, batches 1/23/20 and 10/09/19. Contact ProPaperChem@KodakAlaris.com for next steps.

Sorry if already posted, I didn't see it anywhere.

Donald Qualls · Sep 23, 2020

Was there an indication what the "issue" is?

grat · Sep 23, 2020

Do not apologize... I hadn't seen it. Anyone care to guess what the date stamp on my (about to use) bag of D76 is?

If I find out any details, I'll pass them on.

For what it's worth, it appears to have discolored. I haven't opened my bag, but the powder in it looks suspiciously dark-- like, brownish-orange dark.

Hatchetman · Sep 23, 2020

Donald Qualls said:
Was there an indication what the "issue" is?

Said a "discoloration" issue but they did not say it was harmless and said to contact them. I wouldn't risk it.

MattKing · Sep 23, 2020

Quoted here:
Kodak Professional
4 hrs ·
"Let’s talk D-76.

If you have Catalog #1058270 (Batch 2020/01/23 8438 & Batch 2019/10/09 8432), you may have noticed a discoloring of your product. Please know we’re aware of this and apologize for the inconvenience or confusion this may have caused for a product you’re well used to.

Rest assured we want to get this taken care of for you. Please email us at ProPaperChem@KodakAlaris.com and our team will be back in touch to provide you with next steps on this specific product.

*If you have the product in your care and have not yet opened it, we encourage you to reach out to us for next steps as well.

For any questions in the meantime, please don’t hesitate to be in touch with us via email or private message!"

Donald Qualls · Sep 23, 2020

Fortunately, I have no D-76 of any vintage, and since I have all the ingredients, I'd mix my own if I needed some.

grat · Sep 23, 2020

That was fast. Kodak/Alaris already responded and will be shipping me replacement chemicals.

Any suggestions for what do with a bag of oxidized D76 (I'm guessing that's what happened)?

mklw1954 · Oct 11, 2020

Matt King, thanks for sharing this. I have 2 bags of the 2020/01/23 8438 and will contact Kodak.

grat · Oct 12, 2020

Got my replacement D76, decided to rebag it using my vacuum sealer. Then for grins, re-bagged my bad batch (I confess, I bagged the bad stuff as a test run).

Any guesses as to which is which?

Brendan Quirk · Oct 12, 2020

I have used dark colored D-76 (back in July) with no issues.

grat · Oct 12, 2020

I was considering trying to use the bad batch, but I noticed some black bits in there as well (not visible in the photo), and it was seriously clumpy.

MattKing · Oct 12, 2020

grat said:
I was considering trying to use the bad batch, but I noticed some black bits in there as well (not visible in the photo), and it was seriously clumpy.

I wonder whether concentrated D-76 would function as a print developer?

cliveh · Oct 12, 2020

MattKing said:
I wonder whether concentrated D-76 would function as a print developer?

D76 is a film developer (not a print developer) which has no issues if used correctly.

grat · Oct 12, 2020

MattKing said:
I wonder whether concentrated D-76 would function as a print developer?

Funny you should ask-- I bought it for two reasons. One, while I'm happy with Ilfosol 3, there's some question about longevity. If bottling in airless 100ml bottles extends that, it may not matter.

Two, combined with a bit of baking soda, it can be apparently be used for developing Harman Direct Positive paper, which appeals to me.

https://diyphotography.home.blog/2019/02/20/using-kodak-d-76-to-develop-ilford-photographic-paper/

MattKing · Oct 12, 2020

cliveh said:
D76 is a film developer (not a print developer) which has no issues if used correctly.

Yes, but this thread is discussing discoloured developer that may be contaminated.
If you are concerned about whether a developer has been contaminated, it is far safer to use/test it with prints than it is with film, because at most you are risking a sheet or two of photographic paper.
As an example, somewhat concentrated X-Tol can be used as a print developer, if you don't mind how uneconomic it is.
And diluted Dektol can be used for film. .

Donald Qualls · Oct 12, 2020

I recall reading (from PE, I think) that D-76 stock is a monobath for paper. Apparently the sulfite level is enough to completely dissolve the halide (though it does so slowly enough that you get a normal-looking fixed print, not a pale barely-there image).

Pioneer · Oct 12, 2020

It is nice to see Kodak responding quickly.

I rarely use D-76 but I usually mix my own if I want some.

I have been doing this for quite awhile now, ever since I started playing around with Caffenol. I like fresh.

I am experimenting with Parodinal as a substitute for Rodinal. Assuming that works out, as I suspect that it will, then the only other developer I am not mixing myself is HC110. That one may take awhile as it seems a little more complex.

Donald Qualls · Oct 12, 2020

I'd probably make a case that by the time you have mix-your-own D-76, D-72, Parodinal, and Mytol, (plus Caffenol) you might find you don't need HC-110 any more.

drpsilver · Oct 13, 2020

MattKing said:
Yes, but this thread is discussing discoloured developer that may be contaminated.
As an example, somewhat concentrated X-Tol can be used as a print developer, if you don't mind how uneconomic it is.
And diluted Dektol can be used for film. .

12 Oct 2020

When I was beginning to do photography a long time ago in junior high school (grade 7 & 8) I did not have very much money. In order to have more dollars for film I used Dektol to develop both film and prints. I think I used Dektol (1+3) in order to make the chemistry that I had last longer. At that time I probably also over-worked both developer and fixer for the same reason. Now I know better.

Regards,
Darwin

Donald Qualls · Oct 13, 2020

Standard film dilution for Dektol has been 1+9 since the 1940s. Different workers use different dilutions for prints -- some prefer 1+1, other 1+2 or even 1+3.

cliveh · Oct 18, 2020

If you are using D76 repeatedly with the addition of a replenisher, then it can turn the colour of black as old socks with no decrease in performance.

David Lyga · Oct 19, 2020

Donald Qualls said:
Standard film dilution for Dektol has been 1+9 since the 1940s. Different workers use different dilutions for prints -- some prefer 1+1, other 1+2 or even 1+3.

DEKTOL:
You can EASILY get away with a 1 + 19 for film and a 1 + 4 for paper (while still getting max black for paper). However, these are largely one shot situations and require ample development times. (Rodinal is not the cheapest film developer; Dektol is.)

What is important to understand is that Dektol (or home-made D-72) is substantially more powerful than D-76 in terms of BOTH accelerator AND development components. As far as developer is concerned, per liter size, D-76 has 2g Metol and Dektol has 3g. D-76 has 5g Hydroquinone and Dektol has 12g. Dektol has a LOT of carbonate and D-76 has VERY LITTLE accelerator, none of which is sodium carbonate. There is much said about minimum quantities of stock developer needed: I find this prerequisite overblown. Get used to one shot using specific amounts of highly diluted working solution per frame and you will have little trouble. 10 mL per frame is a good standard. I have carried this out to an extreme where I have cut down reels to fit into smaller vessels, but you do not have to go that far. One or two frames fit into a film can and development can be carried out though rotation in a water bath. Make certain to do this in complete darkness as the newer cans, even if black, are not necessarily light-tight.

If you have D-76, it is still a very potent developer and can be used also for excellent printing. The only modification you will have to make is to add some sodium carbonate (washing soda is sodium carbonate, mono) and you are good to go. Try D-76 1 + 1 and add a one or two mL of the washing soda to it and you will make great prints. For negatives, adding a bit of carbonate will allow one shot dilutions to about 1 + 7, easily. Try adding about 1 mL of the carbonate to this film tank dilution and experiment with one or two frames of film. It is potent. You might even be able to dilute D-76 to 1 + 9. Experiment with one or two frames. (in other words. sacrifice ONE roll of good film and shoot 36 identical shots of a contrasty subject, properly exposed. Then, periodically, use individual frames for development testing.) Using FULL ROLLS for 'a test' like the newbies feel that they have to do is wasteful and ridiculous.

About developer powders which have turned brown: Do not fret, they will work almost as fast as new. I speak with great experience. - David Lyga

Donald Qualls · Oct 19, 2020

Using only a couple frames for testing is valid for some things, but fails to consider overall exhaustion in highly dilute developers. The reason Kodak recommends a minimum amount of stock solution for D-76 and Xtol when used diluted is to avoid inconsistent development between rolls with little exposed halide to develop (lower overall exposure, or mostly dark scenes with small areas of highlight) and those with an exceptionally high level (exposed at lower EI for some reason, or high key scenes, perhaps). That is, your heavily exposed film will underdevelop relative to the lightly exposed one.

By using the recommended minimum of stock solution per roll (I recall that as 100 ml of Xtol, don't recall the figure for D-76), you ensure there's enough active developer for a maximally exposed film, so that film gets the same level of development in the same time/temp as one that's barely exposed at all.

Note, this is different from local exhaustion in highly diluted developers used for stand, semi-stand, or reduced agitation development -- in that case, there's still enough developer to develop all the exposed halide for a maximum exposure, but it's dilute enough that without agitation the developer in and near the emulsion will exhaust in the more exposed areas and won't where the halide has less latent image density. This is what produces the compensating effect, and a related phenomenon produces the edge effects that increase local contrast and give the illusion of increased sharpness.

Now, this is a "rule" that, like most of the other rules of photography, can be broken more or less freely, but like the others, it should be broken only intentionally, for a specific end, not out of ignorance -- the latter will leave the operator wondering why this film needs a Grade 4 filter to print well, and that one prints with a Grade 1 1/2, when they had the same (beyond recommended dilution) development offered.

mklw1954 · Oct 20, 2020

I contacted Kodak Alaris about the two bags of dark D76 on October 11 and received the replacements on October 19.

Donald Qualls · Oct 20, 2020

mklw1954 said:
I contacted Kodak Alaris about the two bags of dark D76 on October 11 and received the replacements on October 19.

Can't argue much with their level of user support...

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