When getting the developer up to development temperature, do you just put the bag in the water bath as-is
Why would you heat the entire bag? Just drain the required amount of developer into a bottle and put that in a water bath. A lot more convenient than having to handle a wet, floppy bag and having to wait for potentially several liters of developer to come to temperature when you only need a few hundred ml.
Thanks for clarifying, that makes good sense!
I never warmed up (hehe) to the wine bags.
Sorry missed that question. Once I mix all the chemicals for the entire 5L kit, I separate them into 4x 1L light-tight air-tight wine bags, and 2x 0.5L wine bags.
My regime is like this for the 1L working solution:
- Use Paterson 1L tank (3x 135 or 2x 120 rolls)
- Use full 1L chemical
- Time compensation for color developer (in minutes): 3:15 for rolls 1-4, 3:30 for 5-8, 3:45 for 9-12, 4:00 for 13-16
- I did not bother to compensate for bleach and fixer
- Pour 1L chemical back to the wine bag, squeeze out air and foam, cap
And repeat the above for next few rolls. As I said I use up 5L over about 11 months, so use up 1L every 2 months or so.
Could you please give a link to the wine bags you use?
Much appreciated!Despite some chaff, there is a lot of "wheat" tips in these forums! Thank you for your many useful contributions as well...
Thanks, they look more practical!
That's a nice design. The bags I purchased will not be as convenient. I'll figure something out though... The ones I ordered are this style:
View attachment 415732
For the wine bags there's a stand that can be purchased with them (although it's easy to DIY one) that the bag can be suspended in, and a regular funnel can be used to fill it.
I did a "wet" run with water to test all of the procedures I knew what I would have to do priort to putting chemicals and chemical exposure of me at risk. These are terrible. Well, not intrinsically, but I do not have the right tool to remove the tap easily and re-filling them is a nightmare. The dispensers are so tight that would require superhuman strength to remove them without a tool. I'm using PET bottles in 1 L and 0.5 L size for now. Developed my first two rolls today and it went well and the negatives look good. The final rinse left a few stains (I can probable rinse in distilled water to remove), but I was proud of my first C-41 negatives ever and using this kit.
Just out of curiosity - why use so much material for something that only acts as a spacer? I imagine that takes ages to print, but you could achieve the same functionality with about 80% less material and thus a far quicker print job.
I see; I honestly never really try and just make what I need from scratch.
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