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Kodak 125 Plus X Best B&W Film All Time

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cliveh

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Panatomic-X was the read deal. Plus-X was for wimps.

Are there any example images showing the wimpishness of Plus-X users?
 

Newt_on_Swings

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Great film, shot the last of my 120 rolls 2 years ago and they had very low fog. I shot my only 25 sheet 4x5 box a few months ago that expired a few years before the 120 and it had a bit of fog but hc110 helped.
 

Xmas

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The black short "lines" in the print are soft, not hard-edged. My lab has processed lots of brands for me, from Fortepan to Agfa et al. I think maybe Fomapan doesn't handle being frozen very well.
Id concur with Rick A the Forma film is not prehardened like Agfa, llford or Kodak film.
It needs to be handled different your lab may want a premium eg to use a harden bath like Rick.
Id have expected a lab to know.
Freezing mono is unnecessary a fridge is good for decades but if you let it unfreeze over a few hours before loading it in a camera it should be ok in original packing.
 

Roger Cole

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Acros is a radically different film from either Plux-X or FP4+ (ir anything else on the market.) The lack of reciprocity failure is the most glaring difference of course, but it's hard to see how that would ever be a negative. OTOH the spectral response is quite different and may or may not be what you want. Finally, while available in 4x5 it's rather absurdly expensive in 4x5 so unless I really needed the lack of reciprocity failure I can't see myself using it in sheets. I do shoot some of it in 120 though. It's a great film, don't get me wrong, but it's nothing like any other film I know.
 

Xmas

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As long as Acros is available, I dont see the problem.

If Acros is withdrawn you will only have

Delta 100
Fp4+
Formapan 100
Adox CHS 100 (II)
APX 100 (new)

and maybe others I don't use.

Noel
 

chip j

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There's your problem, you let a lab handle your film. Fomapan emulsion is "soft" and some care is needed when handling it. This is why I develope mine in pyro, to harden it and make it more scratch resistant. Labs are notorious for their machines being dirty and scratching film. I have shot many factory loaded cassettes and bulk load my own, none of it has shown scratches or debris of any kind. I don't get "soft focused" what do you mean by that? I find it a very capable film and the "old school" emulsion endearing, but it is far from soft looking.

Rick,What pyro do you use? there are several on the market. I can't use a toxic chemical because my hands are real sensitive. Thanks, Chip
 

markbarendt

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Rick,What pyro do you use? there are several on the market. I can't use a toxic chemical because my hands are real sensitive. Thanks, Chip

All chemicals pose some hazard; Pyros simply require slightly more stringent lab procedures, like adding latex or rubber gloves for example.
 

chip j

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All chemicals pose some hazard; Pyros simply require slightly more stringent lab procedures, like adding latex or rubber gloves for example.

I use rubber gloves now, for regular chems. I can't mix pyro "in the open air or w/a vented hood".
 

markbarendt

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Thanks, Mark . Chip

As I understand it, the RolloPyro I use is a variant of the PMK I linked to above. RolloPyro (available powder only) is formulated/buffered/whatever to be more suitable for rotary processing, which is important to me. Part of my decision to use RolloPyro was because of the good luck to have tried it first under the tutelage of Per Volquartz at a workshop where I got nicely printable results.

Now, the more I use RolloPyro the more I like it, but even after the success at the workshop with Per, I resisted using Pyros partly because of the concern about the toxicity, sticking to more mainstream developers for years.

There are differences that I can see in the prints between the Pyros I've tried and the mainstream developers, but the differences are not monumental. It has taken years of practice and refinement of my style to get my skills and prints to a point where differences are starting to truly matter.

What has remained the same over this time (and that I don't fully understand) is that the results of certain combos just seem to fit me. FP4+ in RolloPyro was the first combo that provided "automatically" good prints for me, literally from the first roll. I'm now having similar luck with Delta 400 in RolloPyro.

If you do, or plan to do, rotary processing there's also Pyrocat HD premixed http://stores.photoformulary.com/pyrocat-hd-in-glycol/

Anyone remember when Plus-X 36exp was $1.29 @ Jewel Mart?

I'm old enough I'm sure, but no.
 

Xmas

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For years I only used verichrome pan 127, then I switched to HP3, never used plusx once.
 
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I just printed some 35mm Kodak Plus-X, shot in a half frame old Agfa range finder.

The prints look very nice! The grain holds up nicely like this, and I really enjoy the results. The prints from the roll of FP4 I shot in the camera are not easy to tell apart from the Plus-X.
 

Harold33

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Every recently discontinued BW film is the best B&W Film All Time.
 
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