Kentmere Pan 400 EI 250

[devecchi]

I exposed this film to 250 Asa, portraits in diffused light, I would like the develop with D76 1+1 but I don't know the times. Has anyone tried? Thanks.

 

[grain elevator]

You should be fine with the times for 400, if you have those, or even longer if your lighting was really flat. 2/3 a stop isn't much off, how you metered probably matters more.

 

[devecchi]

Measured with incident light. My perplexity is that Ilford only quotes ID 11 ( similar D76 ) at 16' 30" while Digiltaltruth 14' with D76. Perhaps the truth lies somewhere in the middle? ( 15 ' ). I am referring to your observation with EI 400 Asa.

 

[grain elevator]

Digitaltruth != truth. These are just data from random users, who knows what they want from the film, how accurate their thermometers are etc. I'd trust the film or developer manufacturers a smidgen more.

 

[aparat]

I exposed this film to 250 Asa, portraits in diffused light, I would like the develop with D76 1+1 but I don't know the times. Has anyone tried? Thanks.

If you are willing to develop in stock D-76, you can use the data I obtained when I tested the film a few weeks ago, right after the 120 size became available. I hope this helps. If not, let me know, and I will try to help you further.

Kentmere 400 120 size by Nick Mazur, on Flickr

Kentmere 400 D76 by Nick Mazur, on Flickr

 

[devecchi]

Thanks for the suggestion that can be a starting point. At 250 Asa l prefer D.76 1+1 and l will try 14' on a piece of this film and as sometimes happens when you cut in the dark you.....behead the best frame.

 

[miha]

Don't overthink it, just develop as normal, which would be for 14' indeed.

 

[aparat]

Thanks for the suggestion that can be a starting point. At 250 Asa l prefer D.76 1+1 and l will try 14' on a piece of this film and as sometimes happens when you cut in the dark you.....behead the best frame.

Sure thing. I am curious to see the results. Good luck!

 

[devecchi]

I will post the result in the next few days. I've been developing and printing for many decades but I don't have a scanner and l'm refractory and therefore totally ignorant on digital matters....even with a mobile phone, so forgive I will limit a simple written personal evaluation. Sergio

 

[Bill Burk]

Cut in the dark, it was a shot of two friends talking.

14 minutes in D-76 1:1 is probably just right.

 

[devecchi]

Thank Bill.

 

[BMbikerider]

I exposed this film to 250 Asa, portraits in diffused light, I would like the develop with D76 1+1 but I don't know the times. Has anyone tried? Thanks.

I spoke directly to Ilford some time ago about something similar involving differing development times for the film printed inside the box of the film and that quoted on the inside of the box of ID11. There response was to always refer to the times printed on their website and ignore the times in boxes with other Ilford material. (Nice to know)
The reason being when they have the boxes printed, they print thousands upon thousands at a time and occasionally development times do change before that run of boxes has been used up. That makes sense to me, so I always use the website figures.

 

[ags2mikon]

@BMbikerider , Thank you that it explains a lot. But still, you have to determine what times work for your enlarger, agitation, metering and work flow. But it is nice to have a good starting point.

 

[npl]

Out of curiosity, why expose at EI 250 in this situation ? In my experience there's no lost shadow detail at box speed, so it's probably a true 400 ISO film, or close. And it was very low contrast, I imagine it would be "worst" overexposed

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Out of curiosity, why expose at EI 250 in this situation ? In my experience there's no lost shadow detail at box speed, so it's probably a true 400 ISO film, or close. And it was very low contrast, I imagine it would be "worst" overexposed

No, there isn't lost detail at box speed but at EI 250, there will be more It really depends how the OP metred, me thinks. At the end of the day, people need to find their personal EI, and development times. We can only guess for him...

 

[devecchi]

Out of curiosity, why expose at EI 250 in this situation ? In my experience there's no lost shadow detail at box speed, so it's probably a true 400 ISO film, or close. And it was very low contrast, I imagine it would be "worst" overexposed

I exposed at 250 because the subject was wearing a very dark gray foulard with a nice texture that despite the diffused light was to dark compared to the face. I'm trying a film that l don't know how it will respond and at the moment l'm going by trial and error, then we'll see. Sergio

 

[devecchi]

No, there isn't lost detail at box speed but at EI 250, there will be more It really depends how the OP metred, me thinks. At the end of the day, people need to find their personal EI, and development times. We can only guess for him...

As that "guy" said: Elementary Watson...

 

[npl]

I exposed at 250 because the subject was wearing a very dark gray foulard with a nice texture that despite the diffused light was to dark compared to the face. I'm trying a film that l don't know how it will respond and at the moment l'm going by trial and error, then we'll see. Sergio

That makes sense thanks.
It might turn out quite OK, I didn't like some things about this film but blown highlight wasn't one of them so the lighter parts should be fine.

Tried it in HC-110 and Xtol (1:1, stock and with a replenished solution) and they all came out allright (a little too grainy for Xtol maybe), but the low contrast wasn't for me. If I remember correctly some prints needed a grade 4 equivalent or even higher with my enlarger, and I prefer punchier negs.
Good luck !

 

[BMbikerider]

I have just pulled this off the Ilford website, so this should be up to date with times and recommended agitation times the only one I would take issue with is the one for Rodinal and rely upon the times, dilution and method of agitation.

 

[retina_restoration]

IME, Kentmere 400 is a true 400 speed film, but it may (depending on circumstances) benefit from an extra half-to-one stop exposure. A great film for the price.

 

[pentaxuser]

@BMbikerider , Thank you that it explains a lot. But still, you have to determine what times work for your enlarger, agitation, metering and work flow. But it is nice to have a good starting point.

Yes everyone who remains even slightly dissatisfied with his results at his chosen speed and dev times really should do both the speed test and dev time test for his film, meter and camera.

I like the John Finch videos on this matter. They are well explained and seem easy to do. I haven't used them but that's because box speed and the manufacturer's development times are OK for me but if I kept on wondering if I was getting the best speed and dev time then I certainly would

pentaxuser

 

[devecchi]

That makes sense thanks.
It might turn out quite OK, I didn't like some things about this film but blown highlight wasn't one of them so the lighter parts should be fine.

Tried it in HC-110 and Xtol (1:1, stock and with a replenished solution) and they all came out allright (a little too grainy for Xtol maybe), but the low contrast wasn't for me. If I remember correctly some prints needed a grade 4 equivalent or even higher with my enlarger, and I prefer punchier negs.
Good luck !

I developed this EI 250 film in D.76d 1+1 for 14'. As a first starting point I think the result is very good with a low contrast even if not excessive for my tastes and which in any case can be increased through the development time (15' or 16') or in the printing phase. When I go to press I will let you know. Thanks for your contribution.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I exposed this film to 250 Asa, portraits in diffused light, I would like the develop with D76 1+1 but I don't know the times. Has anyone tried? Thanks.

You can always take the mass of development chart as a starting point

 

[faberryman]

I exposed this film to 250 Asa, portraits in diffused light, I would like the develop with D76 1+1 but I don't know the times. Has anyone tried? Thanks.

Is there some reason you exposed at EI 250? Might the reason you exposed at EI 250 guide you on selecting a development time?

 

[devecchi]

As I specified in my previous post, since it is a film that I am using for the first time, the reason for this slight overexposure is due to the "hypothetical" possibility of recovering a few more details of the plot of the scarf (a little dark) of the subject . Obviously it's about experimenting and it's not certain that depending on the shooting situations it can use the speed of the box (with other development tests.....).