Kentmere Kentona in Fotospeed LD20 lith developer

[Tom Kershaw]

After making my initial set of lith prints on Fomatone MG, I recently tried lith developing Kentona. The results were rather dull compared to the Fomatone MG paper and seemed to require a stronger developer for the image to start to appear after 10 minutes; and produced a less "luminous" result with more conventional tonality, probably due to the stronger developer I used (50ml A + 50ml B + 500ml old brown + 1000ml water, versus 20ml A + 20ml B + 500ml old brown + 1000ml water). The old brown was rather old (early January) and hadn't been replenished.

Evidently I can process the Kentona paper in a fresh developer but I know Kentona is suggested as being suitable for lith printing, or at least the old version...

Tom.

 

[palec]

I have similar "dull" experience with Kentona in LP-Superlith. What's worse in high dillution Kentona produces peppering which infects also subsecutive non-Kentona papers.

 

[Mark Fisher]

I look at it as more of a subtle effect than dull I use Maco/Rollei also and found a similar behavior. It is OK for the right image, but it sure isn't like Kentmere Warmtone VC or Foma. I like it for some landscape images where I want something closer to a conventional print.

 

[Pete H]

I agree - I have tried Moersch SE5 lith at various dilutions with Kentona and I also find it difficult to get much beyond a conventional print. It comes out somewhat green looking, which can look good with partial gold toning for the right image, but it isn't something I want every day.

Pete

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Tim Rudman's book of 10 years ago shows more prominent results, but either there or in another text he refers to changes in Kentona that altered lith characteristics.

Tom.

 

[Travis Nunn]

Kentona in lith has its followers. I'm certainly not one.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Perhaps I should continue to refine my technique with the Fomatone MG paper and ignore the Kentona for lith work; I've not tried Kentmere VC warmtone yet however.

Tom.

 

[Mark Fisher]

Perhaps I should continue to refine my technique with the Fomatone MG paper and ignore the Kentona for lith work; I've not tried Kentmere VC warmtone yet however.

Tom.

Give the Kentmere Warmtone a try. It has an interesting look both untoned and toned in strong selenium (like 1:2!).

 

[Mark Layne]

Perhaps I should continue to refine my technique with the Fomatone MG paper and ignore the Kentona for lith work; I've not tried Kentmere VC warmtone yet however.

Tom.

There is nothing like old Kentona if you like pink colour. New Kentona does not please me in lith, but it is a beautiful paper for conventional printing.
Mark

 

[Tom Kershaw]

The Kentona has given me good results in conventional printing and seems to provide a good deal of flexibility depending on developer choice. However, I have noticed a tendency towards a milk chocolate brown colour in selenium toner depending on developer.

Tom.

 

[David Lingham]

I still use Kentona for lith, sometimes. I normally use Foma and use LD20 @ 20A+20B+1200 water+50mls ob. When the bath is starting to go at around the 5/6th print, that's when I'll try a sheet of Kentona. It's nothing like it used to be, but in exhausted v.weak diluted dev it will produce something.

 

[mikeg]

I agree with David, I use Kentona with LD20 at 10A+10B+600 water + 200ml OB at 25 degrees. I get 3 10x8 prints out of this dilution. The prints have an orange/brown colour. Some pepper fogging in highlights, but I like this effect for some landscapes. Stronger dilutions give me a olive green colour.

Mike

 

[Erik L]

I as well wanted to like Kentona in lith and haven't been successful with ld20 15+15+1000. I think it is just me because I have seen some results
that appeal to me from others but I can't make it work to my vision no matter what I try. It is nice for straight printing however I think
Erik