Kentmere Kentona in Fotospeed LD20 lith developer

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Tom Kershaw, Mar 1, 2009.

  1. Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

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    After making my initial set of lith prints on Fomatone MG, I recently tried lith developing Kentona. The results were rather dull compared to the Fomatone MG paper and seemed to require a stronger developer for the image to start to appear after 10 minutes; and produced a less "luminous" result with more conventional tonality, probably due to the stronger developer I used (50ml A + 50ml B + 500ml old brown + 1000ml water, versus 20ml A + 20ml B + 500ml old brown + 1000ml water). The old brown was rather old (early January) and hadn't been replenished.

    Evidently I can process the Kentona paper in a fresh developer but I know Kentona is suggested as being suitable for lith printing, or at least the old version...

    Tom.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2009
  2. palec

    palec Member

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    I have similar "dull" experience with Kentona in LP-Superlith. What's worse in high dillution Kentona produces peppering which infects also subsecutive non-Kentona papers.
     
  3. Mark Fisher

    Mark Fisher Subscriber

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    I look at it as more of a subtle effect than dull :smile: I use Maco/Rollei also and found a similar behavior. It is OK for the right image, but it sure isn't like Kentmere Warmtone VC or Foma. I like it for some landscape images where I want something closer to a conventional print.
     
  4. Pete H

    Pete H Member

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    I agree - I have tried Moersch SE5 lith at various dilutions with Kentona and I also find it difficult to get much beyond a conventional print. It comes out somewhat green looking, which can look good with partial gold toning for the right image, but it isn't something I want every day.

    Pete
     
  5. OP
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    Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

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    Tim Rudman's book of 10 years ago shows more prominent results, but either there or in another text he refers to changes in Kentona that altered lith characteristics.

    Tom.
     
  6. Travis Nunn

    Travis Nunn Member

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    Kentona in lith has its followers. I'm certainly not one.
     
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    Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

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    Perhaps I should continue to refine my technique with the Fomatone MG paper and ignore the Kentona for lith work; I've not tried Kentmere VC warmtone yet however.

    Tom.
     
  8. Mark Fisher

    Mark Fisher Subscriber

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    Give the Kentmere Warmtone a try. It has an interesting look both untoned and toned in strong selenium (like 1:2!).
     
  9. Mark Layne

    Mark Layne Subscriber

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    There is nothing like old Kentona if you like pink colour. New Kentona does not please me in lith, but it is a beautiful paper for conventional printing.
    Mark
     
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    Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

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    The Kentona has given me good results in conventional printing and seems to provide a good deal of flexibility depending on developer choice. However, I have noticed a tendency towards a milk chocolate brown colour in selenium toner depending on developer.

    Tom.
     
  11. David Lingham

    David Lingham Member

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    I still use Kentona for lith, sometimes. I normally use Foma and use LD20 @ 20A+20B+1200 water+50mls ob. When the bath is starting to go at around the 5/6th print, that's when I'll try a sheet of Kentona. It's nothing like it used to be, but in exhausted v.weak diluted dev it will produce something.
     
  12. mikeg

    mikeg Member

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    I agree with David, I use Kentona with LD20 at 10A+10B+600 water + 200ml OB at 25 degrees. I get 3 10x8 prints out of this dilution. The prints have an orange/brown colour. Some pepper fogging in highlights, but I like this effect for some landscapes. Stronger dilutions give me a olive green colour.

    Mike
     
  13. Erik L

    Erik L Member

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    I as well wanted to like Kentona in lith and haven't been successful with ld20 15+15+1000. I think it is just me because I have seen some results
    that appeal to me from others but I can't make it work to my vision no matter what I try. It is nice for straight printing however I think
    Erik