Just wanted to pass this on to dektol users

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I'm sure a lot of you guys know this already but for those that don't, and in the spirit of sharing I thought I'd post my findings today. The point is... There's a lot of wiggle room using dektol at different dilutions/times/temps.

I recently installed my beseler 810 conversion on an mcrx and am using special cut 12x12 ilford filters.

My favorite paper has been discontinued, kodak polymax fb. I'm exploring Ilford MGIVFB.

I made a print using Dektol 1:3 @70F for 2min with a filter grade of 4-1/2 and was happy with the contrast I got from a short SBR neg. However, the luminosity I experienced at the scene and with the 8x10 contact print was missing. The blacks were not making me happy either. So, I mixed up another batch of developer (Dektol) but this time used it 1:1 @ 70F for 3min. I was able to get more contrast and blacker blacks using a grade 2-1/2 filter than with the previous dilution/grade/time. And better still, the print "opened up" and the luminosity was back. Nice! (For what it's worth, the Film/Dev was txp320 hc-110 1:64 tray processed.) It is a whole lot of fun getting to know your tools! My next quest is to find a way to selenium tone the MGIV for the added depth without incurring any purple color change. Any suggestions?
 

gnashings

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I also find that at 1+3 I get border line warm tone results from neutral paper, at 1+1 I get neutral tones with the legendary blacks that Dektol is known for.
Not a true multi-tone developer, but there is definitely variation to be had for noticeable, albeit not dramatically so, resluts.
I also find that it seems to work no matter how old or hideously dark it gets, even when precipitae appears - it just keeps on ticking!:D

Peter.
 

Donald Qualls

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Extremely noteworthy in discussing times and dilutions for Dektol, is that different papers develop at different rates. I mostly use Arista .EDU Ultra VC RC, and 1 1/2 minutes in Dektol 1+3 is just right. I was given a packet of Bromofort Elegance FB Grade 3, however, and find this paper requires at least two minutes in the same soup, at the same temperature, to give confidence of full development -- based, in both cases, on processing for three times as long as it takes for the print to pass the point of visually obvious change.

I don't know if this is due to developing agents incorporated in the rebranded Foma paper, or just variations in the gelatin and halide structure, or perhaps a side effect of the poly underlayer in the RC paper -- but if you tell how long you develop, you need to say what paper, too.
 

Photo Engineer

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Dektol has a whole range of usable dilutions for both film and paper. It is very good over a wide range of time from 1 - 4 minutes for paper and 3 - 7 mins for film.

One thing I do find is that it undergoes a change in activity right after mixing so that you see a 'fresh' behavior, a 'day old behavior' and then 'normal behavior'. At least this is what I find. I also see a similar result with D76. This is due to the reaction of hydroquinone with oxygen and sulfite which initially causes a tiny pH rise and then a pH drop with a small loss in HQ with the formation of HQ monosulfonate. I can see it, but it is just barely noticeable.

This is explained in Mees, Mees and James and Haist.

PE
 

Tom Hoskinson

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David, To repeat Donald Quall's question, Which Paper are you developing in the Dektol at the 1:2 dilution? It does make a difference.
 

david b

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I must apologize. I had a long weekend in the sun on the ranch and I am still quite tired.

I use dektol with Ilford MG Fiber paper. I don't use anything else.

Here are my times and dilutions....please ignore the above thread.

1+2 for 2 minutes
1+4 for 4 minutes

I use the 1+4 when I have a flat negative.
 

gainer

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I have found differences in developing time between RC and FB papers of the same brand. I attributed it to the absorption by the FB. It seems to be mostly an increased induction period. After the image first appears, development rate seems to be about the same for both. Just for kicks, you who use both kinds of paper could time the appearance of the image and the time to completion for each with the same negative.
 

DannL

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David Brown said:
Am I the only one that uses Dektol at 1:2, the "recommended" dilution? :confused:

You're not alone. I also use the 1:2 dilution. I also cook my T-max in Dektol 1:2 for 3 min.
 

dancqu

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david b said:
I use dektol with Ilford MG Fiber paper....
Here are my times and dilutions....
1+2 for 2 minutes -- 1+4 for 4 minutes
I use the 1+4 when I have a flat negative.

A higher dilution for a flat negative? Dan
 
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