OK.
I have a question about it before making any suggestions. Is that assembly spring loaded to compress the film against the glass? I'm not totally understanding why the clear plastic you have on there is not working as well as the original glass.
Tobias got back to me this morning..."The assembly is part number A1170 $410.00 2 week wait."
Quite unhelpful.
As I wrote earlier about this machine: there is a sensor that measures the light inside
My old EGG died a while back and nothing I can check appears to be bad so it must be the lamp. I guess I have to spring for one somehow.
PE
ic racer,I have an x-rite dual-color sensitometermodel334 in good condition for sale for $150 plus shipping from Florida.if interested send email to rlambrec@ymail.com or call 352-633-7236I just got my EG&G sensitometer today. I currently have an older Wejex and would like to put together a buyers guide comparing the two. If I can pick up an X-rite green/blue sensitometer for cheap I would like to include that in the comparison.
Before plugging in the EG&G I took the cover off to inspect the capacitors and visually check the components for signs of damage.
Everything looked OK so I fired it up. The electronics seem to work OK except the three buttons for flash duration do not seem to work in the correct order. The 10-4 button gives the shortest flash but the 10-3 button gives the longest flash, with the 10-2 button falling somewhere inbetween. I'll have to take the cover off again to check this out. The cover had been off previously and the power cord had been replaced.
It looks like there is a diffusor screen missing from the exposure chamber. If someone out there has an EG&G I wish they could comment.
My light path is as follows: xenon bulb then a clear plate with black border over it. Next was a Wratten ND filter just placed over the clear plate. Next was the exposure chamber which is empty. Next is the rectangular clear glass on top of the exposure chamber and taped on that was a plastic step wedge.
It seems like I am missing a diffusor in the light chain.
That original post is from 2007 and I have 4 sensitometers now (way too many).
(there was a url link here which no longer exists), I suspect someone on APUG would want that at that price.
To generate a control strip, any exposure and filtration that places the toe far to the left is fine. If you are speed testing, you need to choose the same exposure time as your camera.
Control strip gives slope or gamma = film+development quantification.
Speed test gives toe densities = film+light quantification.
10^-2 = 0.01 sec = 1/100
Actually I don’t really have a known film, is maybe
there some standard parameter to expose and develop the Delta 100 to have then a known
film to use to compare others?
There are a few different buttons on the EG&G.
These are the flash exposure times. The exponent -2 -3 -4 are 1/100th of a second, 1/1000th of a second and 1/10,000th of a second respectively.
1/100th second (the 10-2 setting) is the one designed for regular film tests. It's pretty bright so you need a neutral density or a physical filter. You can block the light with a piece of foil with stripes cut out of it... that's a physical filter. It would make sense to cut a piece of acrylic and glue foil to it and cut it to block the right amount of light (so it won't change much over time)...
But I use a piece of neutral density gelatin filter in the bottom of the well, I just checked it's about 1.84 density. This is good for a 100 ASA film. for a 400 ASA film I add another ND filter giving 0.6 density (2 stops) more blocking power.
As I said, the 10 -2 button gives you a flash of 1/100th second. I always use this for film because 1/100th is a good shutter speed.
One of the others is super bright and even though it's a short exposure time it can expose paper for a paper test... you just "ignore" the reciprocity for that situation.
Otherwise the other two buttons 10 -3 and 10 -4 are for "reciprocity studies" - unless you really want to study reciprocity you probably won't use them for that purpose.
"With the 10-3 compensator, the exposure for 10-2 was 20.3mcs. I then used ND filters to adjust for the different film speeds. I used .6 NDs. They brought the exposures down to 4.78mcs for 100 speed films, 1.18mcs for 400 speed films, and 0.28mcs for TMZ and Delta 3200."
I have also done that mis-matching of the compensators to help fit the film range to the wedge with the limited ND filters I have.
I really like the concept of those compensators. They will be almost as stable throughout time (unless the plexiglass yellows or something) as a carbon filter, at an order of magnitude less in production cost.
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