Jobo ATL-2 rebuilding project

Brian Rotsten

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I see what you are saying. Yes, the problem was an internal short of the capacitor, it was an input filter to a 7805 voltage regulator that was connected to 10v on one side and ground on the other.

The original part was actually a tantalum capacitor, I replaced it with the electrolytic because that is what I had.

Fingers crossed that is the only one that goes!
 

mtjade2007

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I have had 2 tantalum capacitors shorted in my Tektronic 485 and another on my HP54845A oscilloscope that not only shorted but burnt yet still shorted and looked perfect without a sign of the short. In each case the power supply refused to power up but did no harm to anything else. It took me several years to eventually find the time to troubleshoot the two fairly high end test gears and found the culprit. I replaced them with tantalum caps still. For some reason old tantalum caps have this problem. But there is a reason these test equipment use it all over everywhere inside.

By the way I have an ATL-2300 in perfect working order. It once had a problem with the main water pump. It was frozen. I soaked the internal chamber with Isopropryl Alcohol and WD-40 then give it a shot of higher voltage. I got it work again. The pump is a 12 volt DC pump if I remember it correctly. The ATL-2300 is too a microprocessor based machine. It has an EEPROM on the main board. I believe the processor is an 8 bit processor, When I was in college I build a microprocessor based instrument as a research project from which I earned a degree from it. I still kind of remember how the processor worked, especially how it booted and loads the main program from the EEPROM to run. There should be a SRAM on board as well which serves the memory for the program real time data. Pretty interesting stuff. The EEPROM can be taken out to a EEPROM programmer to make copies. But to develop the code in it you will need to have a development system for the processor on the board. The development system could be just an app now. The one I used was a work station kind of equipment made by Intel.The processor I used in my project was a Z-80.

Good luck in fixing your ATL-2.
 

davidbv

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Hello everyone

Amazing thread this is. I have just gotten an atl2 and will be trying to get it to work in the next months, and will probably have lots of questions... At the moment, when the machine is plugged without any water connected only the fan actually starts. No other response. No light anywhere whatsoever. I know the second fuse is blown although I dont really know what is connected to them. Literally just got it into my studio. I was wondering if anyone has the service manual for the machine? I was also wondering if the atl2 and atl2 plus have compatible electronic parts?

Kind regards

David
 

nbagno

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David,

There are a couple of other resources on Facebook groups:
"Jobo Film Developing" - There is a service manual in the files section.
"Jobo Analog Users"
 
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Fred of Wisconsin

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Welcome to the Jobo ATL repairing world... I can answer a couple of your questions here simply. Starting in the lower section the power supply (94016) and the interface board (94015) that helps control the motor functions and is where the fuses reside and you see the blown #3 fuse are cross compatible with the ATL-2, 2 Plus and 3 because that has been the constant. I have seen the issue that you are experiencing and I have had to make the repair on a regular basis on an initial power-up. It usually stemmed from a processor sitting and a particular capacitor or 2 shorting to ground with age. It can be an easy fix if that is the issue but you will need to be able to solder on small components. As for the display board (94018) that is also a common board between the 3 processors. Finally the control head interface board (94017) has also been compatible with all 3 processors. The ATL2, 2 Plus and 3 are 24 volt head systems whereas the ATL-2000 and 3000 series are 12 volt systems in the head assembly and that is not compatible with the autolab series I work with. I am presently knee deep in a rebuild of an ATL-3 and I have intentions of taking this one further with redesigning the auto replenishment system. I converted the ATL-3 from a 220 volt processor to a 120 volt processor and I am studying the schematics to see if I can make the replenishment system safer than the 220 volt system that it was wired up to be.

I have been a resource here but it will take me more time to respond due to personal and family health as my household ages.. Best of luck on the ATL-2 Its always nice to know someone is willing to deep a Jobo out of landfill and processing film and prints.
 

Xtraordinary Laz

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Hi,
Im new here and Im having a problem with my Jobo ATL 2. Im trying to look for a replacement for this part and I am not finding anywhere. Any help?



My last resort will be 3D print this part.
 

krathognis

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Jan 8, 2013
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I've had an ATL 2+ the past few years. it's got some cosmetic issues but overall has been running well. Recently the circulation pump took a dive. How difficult is it to source a replacement pump? Additionally, i'm looking to source a replacement bottle cap with gromet for my chemistry temp probe. any assistance would be appreciated.

thanks,
 

Brian Rotsten

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When I acquired mine, the pump wasn't working. The lubricant on the motor shaft and thrust washers was gooey, cleaning everything and relubing was all it needed.



 

krathognis

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Just wanted to say thanks again. after pulling the head off and removing the shroud it looks like there was a previous attempt at repair on the impeller. it looks like there was once a cotter pin holding it onto the attachment point and that pin had gone missing. the shaft had come completely free of the pump motor. i've reattached it with a new pin and it seems to be pumping fine now. we'll see how long it lasts.
 

David Mackovic

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Hi @Fred of Wisconsin , I was reminded of other forum member about your ATL skills and I wanted to ask you for a help with my ATL3.
I acquired an well used ATL3 in so-so condition, so i started with deep cleaning everything there because the machine was left in storage for many years and it was covered with filth.
There goes my question. Few cables were chewed on by mice or something and i dont know where do they go to. I only have a few centimeters of each of those two cables connected to boards but with no other end. So I wanted to ask , maybe you know where to look or what it should be connected to.

First cable is connected to green board and connector is labaled as NA.FU
Second one is connected do brown board in lower part of the machine controlling refilling, with no labels
 

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Fred of Wisconsin

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Hi David. What you are showing are the connections for the refill system that was available on certain models of the ATL3's . The system at its time was not very reliable and most users eventually abandoned it's use. The wire you are asking about was most likely cut to disable the refill system and then the dip switch was set to the the table top configuration. The green board labeled NA.FU is the board connection for the auto fill control board (your brown board) and the other connection for on the brown board which by the way is actually green is the other end of that cable. I hope this helps.
 

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Jerry PboNC

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Greetings Fred and all the amazing ATL preservationists on Photrio!
Fred, a friend wants my ATL2 and I was set to process a test roll
to show it could wake up after an 8 year nap, when there was a POP and a flash, then no go.
I've reached only the first board that's visible and am relieved to see a photo
showing cap C27 as a replaceable cure, but am inexperienced with circuit boards.
There may be some tips on getting past my limited access to the upper board,
and free both (?) boards so a more practiced friend can try replacing capacitors.
Both fuses seem intact.
Do you sometimes swap ailing boards for a ready board or two from your deep salvation project? Markatos@mindspring.com is me and your guidance, on or off-forum, is my hope.
 

Tim Stapp

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Fred from Wisconsin is amazing with these older machines. CAT Labs has nothing on him! I gave him an old, non functional ATL-2+. He resurrected it from the dead and made it fully operational.

It was a well used machine that I received from a retired professional commercial photographer (all of the Gerber baby food photos were taken with the 4x5 camera that I purchased from him and processed on that very same JOBO ATL2+.

Fred is amazing, and a really nice guy to boot!
 

Jerry PboNC

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Circuit diagrams for the ATL2 sure would help... Can anyone share via file transfer service or direct email?
I'm on the verge of freeing a circuit board or two to replace dead capacitors and lithium battery,
and your experience could facilitate return to function. The JOBO downloads
are a start and I'm trying to absorb every tip, yet an informed word can supply
a missing ingredient. - Jerry
 

Jerry PboNC

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Still looking for ATL-2 schematics....
With tip from everyone's shared stories and the documents downloaded from JOBO,
I've removed a couple of circuit boards and found a blown capacitor, but a tech savvy friend
hopes schematics can inform our work while the unit is open.

Thanks, Jerry
markatos@mindspring.com

Fred and other ATL-2 explorers: I'm curious about your experience with the bottom circuit board. It doesn't look easily removed for capacitor replacement, if that's important.
 

DoctorDalek

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Hey all,

I've been lurking this thread for a couple of weeks while trying to refurb an ATL-2400 that's been in the family for some time. Luckily the unit was emptied and stored relatively well. The bath could use some cleaning and some mouse poison pellets came tumbling out of the arm assembly, but otherwise I don't see any blown caps, leaking batteries, and I was able to run a C-41 process!

That being said, unfortunately the heater is not firing up. To run the process I had to bring up the water bath to temp manually with some hot water. I need to run some more diagnostics on it and check the fuses/relays to get a better idea of what's going on. If anyone has some diagnostic tips, I'm all ears!

Otherwise I'm totally interested in this discussion about a rebuild of the internals. I was actually contemplating the idea of piggybacking off the onboard computer or sensors. I'm big into the smart home scene and have thought about trying to send data to Home Assistant so I can monitor a process remotely.

PS: Hey Fred, glad to see another Milwaukeean!
 

pwadoc

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So these machines all have a thermal cutoff switch that shut down the heater if a safe temperature is exceeded. There's generally a reset buttonsomewhere on the head, though I don't know where it is on the ATL-2400. It will be small and tucked away somewhere.
 

pwadoc

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Note sure if this has been shared yet, but I have the service manual for the ATL2/3 and a separate one for the ATL-1. The ATL-1 and 2 have identical electronics. The only changes from the 1 to the 2 was that the output housing was altered to make it more of a complete unit rather than an ATL head mounted on a CPP2 like the ATL-1.

I've also spent a lot of time digging around inside the ATL-1, so if you have specific questions about the electronics I'd be happy to help.

Here are all the documents I have relating to the ATL 1/2, please let me know if you have difficulty accessing the files:

Jobo Docs - Google Drive

drive.google.com
 

NortheastPhotographic

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I hope Fred is watching this thread a bit. My ATL3 recently stopped recirculating. When I went to check the float switches they do move up and down. I manipulated them up and down a bit but after doing so the fill switch also stopped working (so it continuously tries to fill the tank). It's not the solenoid because when I turn the key to program mode it will stop. But no amount of wiggling the switches will stop anything. I'd love to get this ATL3 back in action because in some ways I prefer it over the 2500 I'm using in the interim. Any help for me? Honestly I'm having trouble even getting the thing apart...
 

luhengfoto

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Hello Team
I have a ATL-2. it was works well. but if I don't use it for a while, the air distributor will keep spinning and can't stop, I have to shut off it immediately to avoid the gears broken. I found there is a magnetic at the air distributor gear so I think there is a sensor maybe not working or faulty. Can anyone give me an advice or send me a circuit diagram of ATL2? Thank you very much, greetings from Switzerland
 

pwadoc

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I had pretty much this exact problem. You are correct that there is a magnetic sensor (hall sensor) that detects the position of the air distributor system, though the sensor itself is very unlikely to fail as it is a robust part and is encased on silicone. The most common cause for this is that the backup battery on one of the circuit boards has leaked and damaged traces that connect the component that handles the hall sensor logic. It's an easy fix if you're comfortable with electronics, but probably pretty intimidating if you're not. I believe my fix is detailed earlier in this same thread (on an ATL-1 rather than an ATL-2, the machines have identical electronics).
 
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