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I've been looking for a Pentax 67, but then...

I owned a Hasselblad for about 3 months, 50 years ago. I shot sports and some field work. No portrait. Owned a Pentax 6x7, non mirror lock up version for 30 years. Loved the Pentax. I used the 55 and the 150 most of the time. I also had a 135 Macro, 90 LS and 300. Shifted away from medium format. Rent or borrow both and try them. Everyone has different criteria and has opinions. The only opinion that counts is yours. Amateur photography only, no commercial.
 
Analogski said:
Handling: The Pentax 67 appeals to me for its SLR-style ergonomics. On the other hand, the Hasselblad’s modular design and reputation are very tempting — but is it practical enough for occasional street photography?
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Both cameras work fine for street photography. However you need to take in mind that depth of field is narrow in medium format, even for 6x4.5, and this makes street photography more difficult, in certain cases.

Both cameras require periodic maintenance and then they're reliable.

It's more a question of 6x6 versus 6x7.

Taylor Nankervis said:
Retarded shutter speeds in the 1/250 to 1/1000 range also show up in user gripes.
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This is only lack of periodic service (once every 2 years or so)

Taylor Nankervis said:
The meter coupling chain is a bit delicate and can snap if a specific procedure for dismounting and re-mounting prism and lens is not followed.
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If you are using a non-metered prism then the chain has 0 risk of snapping.

If you're using a metered prism, just remove the lens first if you intend to remove the prism.

Taylor Nankervis said:
Where MLU is fitted: with film loaded and the camera cocked, the MLU lever should be taped over to prevent it being accidently tripped in the pack, thus draining the battery (see pic).
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+1 great advice

Taylor Nankervis said:
The reset function will sacrifice one frame of the roll to effect correct reset.
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There is another reset procedure that doesn't lose a frame, it is described on the service manual.

Taylor Nankervis said:
Try and examine a camera of interest in person rather than take what is printed as gospel.
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This is great advice for any camera purchase!

Paul Howell said:
With modern films and grain I don't think you will find that a 6X7 negative is sharper than the 6X6
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I will disagree here.

If you shoot 6x6 intending to print on rectangular paper, you're shooting 6x4.5.

There is a large area difference between 6x4.5 and 6x7 format, and the image quality difference is visible, even with "modern films". However, 6x4.5 is still a good choice, and the OP wants to do street photography, which would be even easier with 6x4.5.

Paul Howell said:
if printed square or cropped 6X4.5 if printed rectangle. Saying that unless you print square why not a Mamiya 645? Smaller, lighter, full system. great lens.
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Why not a Bronica ETRSi instead of a Mamiya 645? True system camera, shutters in all lenses.

Analogski said:
Of the two camera's, is the Hassie or the Pentax much easier to work with handheld? I do most of my photography handheld...
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Both cameras have strong vibrations. With the Pentax you can use the big wooden grip which really helps to get the camera steady. I would guess that for the Hasselblad there are also many grips available too.

In any case, you can use the Pentax handheld; in fact it only makes sense to use it handheld! If you want a tripod-only camera, the RB67 is a better choice.
 
Logical1 said:
Rent or borrow both and try them. Everyone has different criteria and has opinions.
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This is so true! Best answer so far.

Perhaps finding some amateur photography club... it's not rare to find someone with a P6x7 and somebody with a Hasselblad.
 
The names 6x6 and 6x7 when placed next to each other are a bit of a misnomer as far as aspect ratio is concerned. 6x6 is a square, self explanatory, but 6x7 is a 4x5 aspect ratio, a bigger aspect ratio difference than the name suggests and one that large format users will be familiar with.
 
flavio81 said:
In any case, you can use the Pentax handheld; in fact it only makes sense to use it handheld! If you want a tripod-only camera, the RB67 is a better choice.
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Good heavens. Well, I can't really agree on that.
There will of course be exceptions such as in studio use with a leaf shutter where there is a constant switcharoo of positions that is far easier to accomplish freehand than with the camera tripod-mounted, where it could well be ensnared in strobe cables or other business that is part and parcel of a pro-levelo studio. But for landscape — most certainly not.

My two 67s are always tripod-mounted and remains so each and every time, all over the 20+ years of thousands of rolls of film. I do not risk ruining a single frame (or more) to blur when a roll of film is now $50 and rising! Most newbies coming to grips with the 67 will find it mightily heavy (some users I know are now quite averse to this camera's heft and bulk and they, too, now work from a tripod!) with, especially, one of the LS lenses (the 165LS in my case), add the wooden grip (which is a nuisance when packing the camera away), right-angle finders, etc., etc. Definitely no lightweight to tote around on a cake 'n coffee walk (but then, neither is an 11x14 Tachihara View and 40kg studio tripod... )


flavio81 said:
There is another reset procedure that doesn't lose a frame, it is described on the service manual.
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I'm not a service person or having seen any such service manual, so I use the gentlemanly option despite gnarling and grumbling at the waste of a single frame (I've done worse historically! ) — service as and when necessarily is left to VinTech Service down in Melbourne. Can't remember when I have used the reset function on either/which camera actually — probably 10-13 years ago with a sketchy memory of an incident...
 
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Taylor Nankervis said:
I'm not a service person or having seen any such service manual, so I use the gentlemanly option despite gnarling and grumbling at the waste of a single frame
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Here's the procedure:

 
Recommend you use a tripod with "The Beast" for the best landscape negatives. Also use the mirror-lock up.
 
K Francis said:
Recommend you use a tripod with "The Beast" for the best landscape negatives. Also use the mirror-lock up.
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Absolutely! Sharp images guaranteed every time this way.
 

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Taylor K Nankervis said:
Most instructional.
What is meant by the last sentence: therefore, a rewinding up is necessary...?
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Not sure of what they mean, but i'm 90% certain that this procedure doesn't require losing a frame. On the other hand, this procedure means carefully putting your finger inside the mirror box (for flipping up the mirror) and it's obvious Pentax knew this wasn't an user-friendly or foolproof procedure. Thus, they quickly introduced the little button for resetting the camera (the first versions of the P6x7 camera didn't have this button)

K Francis said:
Recommend you use a tripod with "The Beast" for the best landscape negatives. Also use the mirror-lock up.
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The Beast? You mean the Fuji GX680 camera, right?

My Pentax 6x7 is a compact machine...
 
I think I'm losing my mind... The Pentax 67 is now on Dutch online marketplace almost twice as expensive as the Hasselblad 500C/M. One dude is trying to sell the 67 for 2000 euro.... While someone is selling the Hasselblad for 1000 euro. A shop on Amsterdam is selling a serviced Hasselblad for 1450. The cheapest I came across is 1000 euro. I don't know why the prices of the Pentax are gone so high now. While prices of the Hasselblad are stable
 
Are those 67 prices with a lens and metered finder? How about the Hasselblad, body, lens and back? Apples to apples.
 
One more reason to prefer the Pentax. It knows what it is; no schizophrenia. But there is a P645 digital option, which accepts P67 lenses, in terms of tail-wagging "mutts" out there.
 
Taylor K Nankervis said:
Most instructional.
What is meant by the last sentence: therefore, a rewinding up is necessary...?
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I don't have any experience with a Pentax 6x7, but from the text, it seems clear to me that they are explaining why Step 3 (wind the lever again) is needed. If they had written "re-cocking" rather than rewinding it would probably be clearer, but the text is also likely written by a non-native speaker of English.
 
Ideally you will try both in a used camera store or local camera meetup, so you can actually handle them and feel them. Then you can make your decision.

Worst case, you buy both systems for 1000 euros each. And after a few months, you get rid of the system you don't like. You won't lose much money: it's almost like long term rental.

I have both systems, and keep both for their own strengths.
 

If you decide to go with Hasselblad, I would recommend Mr. Paul Timmer from Arnhem. He has reasonable prices and also very helpful in repairment.
 
Alexander6x6 said:
If you decide to go with Hasselblad, I would recommend Mr. Paul Timmer from Arnhem. He has reasonable prices and also very helpful in repairment.
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Thanks! I'll look into it. Does he have a website?
 
Two capable systems. Handle both and you will know which one you like better. I was completely sold on the modular box-design of the Hasselblad but wanted a 6x7 negative when I came back to medium format and therefore ended up with neither one.
 
Square if un-squared is substantially smaller.
 
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