Oh brother. Here we go...
Oh brother. Here we go...All autoexposure cameras expose correctly some scenes.
That's not being a photographer: that's pressing a button.
A little less gatekeeping would be appreciated. Because it's lame.All autoexposure cameras expose correctly some scenes.
That's not being a photographer: that's pressing a button.
Truth doesn't hurt. It's the lies.
Truth doesn't hurt. It's the lies.
What he will learn is that, when using a camera without a means to adjust shutter speed and aperture, and therefore exposure, shooting with slide film, given its narrow exposure latitude, is a dumb idea. Failing early and often, at great expense, is not the pedagogic method I would recommend.Problems for those who don't want to learn, of course.
There's a wonderful way for OP to learn about materials and about his own cameras: use slide film for some months.
Everything will be clear and true.
So what is different with Holga than with the cameras you already used?
If no Holga can allow the photographer to decide aperture and speed in any way (that is new to me: I thought they had at least a few options) then there is just no way to expose film correctly in many situations. For those who consider that is photography, or for those who like that, C-41 films should work better than slide film or B&W film.
And if OP's intention is not learning photography nor exposure, yes, he should stick inside his cameras different ISO films for different types of light.
To the OP: as you can tell, some of us here are quite passionate about this stuff!
There are many rewards to be gained from film cameras. Some of them may be easier or quicker or maybe even more satisfying to obtain if you combine some technical knowledge with equipment that allows you to make use of it - the fully adjustable SLRs and the like that are referenced above.
But there is joy and fulfillment found in many places.
I started out with one of these, 55+ years ago, at the age of 8:
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Hi,What he will learn is that, when using a camera without a means to adjust shutter speed and aperture, and therefore exposure, shooting with slide film, given its narrow exposure latitude, is a dumb idea. Failing early and often, at great expense, is not the pedagogic method I would recommend.
How does one learn precise exposure with a camera that does not have a means for setting exposure?Using slide film to learn precise exposure is not a dumb idea: it's the way it was done where I cursed my career in Photography in Europe.
It doesn't matter: anyway he's exposing film with that camera.How does one learn precise exposure with a camera that does not have a means for setting exposure?
Faberryman: what epp can learn from slide film, is how far from perfect every exposure is, no matter the camera, and no matter if he uses an Holga without (enough) controls. That's what he needs.
Compared to one with a lot of bells and whistles, only three bells and whistles: lens focus, B/N switch and aperture (if one has a model with a correctly-working aperture).
I have acquired a second Holga 120N, which has a correctly-working aperture, with a third on the way, due tomorrow. Don't know if the third will also have a correctly-working aperture, or if it will be a Sunrise-made Holga, which I've read online have apertures that are backwards.
My original 120N does not have the working aperture (bought in 2007), it moves but the size of the hole is the same regardless of what the sun/cloud switch is set to. Regarding this camera, I know to use ISO 100 film on sunny days, but would it be best to use ISO 400 film on cloudy/gray days or nights, or perhaps ISO 200 on cloudy and ISO 400 during nights or gray/dark days? I would use B&W film.
Thanks..
You ultimately learn to read a scene and understand what works best within the parameters of what you have available to use.How does one learn precise exposure with a camera that does not have a means for setting exposure?
using a camera without a means to adjust shutter speed and aperture, and therefore exposure, shooting with slide film,
You might’ve said this already, but do you develop your own film? Have you tried using the massive dev chart app? It’s useful for challenges like this and has a handy calculator, timers, etc.
I just use Tmax 400 film in my Holga because it’s such a flexible film. In bright conditions I develop the film as if it were an ISO 200 film, and in shady conditions I develop it as an ISO 400 - 1600 film. That works.
I’ve never used the camera at night though, so for that I agree with others that are suggesting ISO 3200 films.
So follow Craig75's film recommendation. As long as you adjust the film to the light condition (sunny / overcast / indoor), you should be fine and get acceptable negatives from your Holga (with or without working aperture setting).
I have never developed my own film, do not have the space for it.
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