Is this Safelight Good To Go?

[John Galt]

Hello, been offline for quite awhile due to a few big commitments . . . I have been doing Analog f Photography for a couple years now using a Hasselblad V system, doing my own film development and scanning. Got my DR all set up and ready to go. . . Besseler 23C XL, 80mm El Nikkor and an old gralab timer. Plus all the other stuff.

In a box of stuff I acquired was an old Kodak safelight. It came with a NIB Wratten OC filter. I do mostly Tmax, Tri X and Ilford Pan F+. Is this the correct filter for B&W print processing?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rick A]

Follow these instructions and find out for sure.

https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles..._motion_products_filter_K4_Safelight_1106.pdf

 

[John Galt]

ETA: I will be using Ilford MG paper

 

[Doremus Scudder]

The OC filter is safe for many printing papers, but not for several of the VC papers. Fomabrom Variant, for example, will fog pretty quickly under an OC filter. I had to go to red (1 and 1A) filters when using this paper. Of course it all depends on time and intensity, so do do the safelight test linked to above. I like to get my papers safe out to seven minutes or more, but I can deal with five if I have to. Just to be on the safe side (pun intended), I keep the paper emulsion side down in the developer tray for about half the developing time, flipping it right-side-up every 30 seconds or so to check on the image.

I believe that Ilford states that a Kodak OC filter is safe with Multigrade papers.

Best,

Doremus

 

[MattKing]

The OC filter should be okay for Ilford Multigrade paper.
If it is still in good shape - they can lose effectiveness.

 

[Nodda Duma]

I used that same setup in my darkroom for the past several years. It is good for Ilford Multigrade.

 

[Arklatexian]

Hello, been offline for quite awhile due to a few big commitments . . . I have been doing Analog f Photography for a couple years now using a Hasselblad V system, doing my own film development and scanning. Got my DR all set up and ready to go. . . Besseler 23C XL, 80mm El Nikkor and an old gralab timer. Plus all the other stuff.

In a box of stuff I acquired was an old Kodak safelight. It came with a NIB Wratten OC filter. I do mostly Tmax, Tri X and Ilford Pan F+. Is this the correct filter for B&W print processing?
That is the set-up I use but do use the filter that each paper calls for in it's instruction sheet. Most say OC is OK. Be sure to limit your bulb to no more than 15Watts. and keep the safe light at least 36 inches from the developer tray. It is good to do safelight tests in your darkroom before you start printing again. Peace of mind and all that........Regards!

Thanks in advance!

Hello, been offline for quite awhile due to a few big commitments . . . I have been doing Analog f Photography for a couple years now using a Hasselblad V system, doing my own film development and scanning. Got my DR all set up and ready to go. . . Besseler 23C XL, 80mm El Nikkor and an old gralab timer. Plus all the other stuff.

In a box of stuff I acquired was an old Kodak safelight. It came with a NIB Wratten OC filter. I do mostly Tmax, Tri X and Ilford Pan F+. Is this the correct filter for B&W print processing?

Thanks in advance!

 

[BMbikerider]

if you can find one, buy a Kaiser Duka50 safe light. It can be used with colour printing papers for short exposures due to the sodium bulb having a wavelength to which RA4 paper is 'blind'. I tested it on full power (Controllable via a light baffle) by leaving a piece of Ilford MG paper in full view of the light for 30 minutes and there was no fogging at all.

They are available new if you look but they have not been generally available for at least 10 years so if you can grab one while you can. Likewise the bulbs which seem to be a bit more available.

 

[Ian Grant]

The Wratten OC filter and Ilford equivalent 902 are the recommended filter for Ilford Multigrade papers. It's all I've used since the late 1980's.

Ian

 

[Neal]

Dear John

Unless there are light leaks you will be fine. If there are fogging issues simply use a dimmer bulb or move the safelight farther from the work area. Rosco #19 fire filter is a cheap way to save an old safelight. Just cut it out and place it so the current filter holds it in place.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra