I second that-contact prints from large format just have that real wow factor. I remember seeing Edward Weston prints for the first time in 1989 and being just blown away by them.Also there is nothing like looking at a 4 x5 or 8x10 negative on light box and being able to look at it real close.
I love 8 x10 for that tactile feel.
If you have a beard and grey hair, you need a large format camera to complete the ensemble.
You may find that working with large format appeals to you. If so, that is an inherent advantage that cannot be easily duplicated with other formats.
YES! The bigger the "SENSOR" the longer the focal length of the lens which gives you an incredible tool , you decide what is in sharp focus and what should just be a blur. You can do this with a 35mm format but you need a 85mm f1.4 lens and really fast shutter speed. This can be hard to do with film.Very little depth of field.
YES! The bigger the "SENSOR" the longer the focal length of the lens which gives you an incredible tool , you decide what is in sharp focus and what should just be a blur. You can do this with a 35mm format but you need a 85mm f1.4 lens and really fast shutter speed. This can be hard to do with film.
These iPhone type photos are horrible you see garbage in te background totally inadequate.
Mike
Yes, if a customer needs a large format color transparency, it is easier using a large format camera rather than a small or medium format camera.
You can probably get a decent monorail 4x5 with a normal lens and film holders for far less than the price of a single tilt-shift lens for any current DSLR system. I generally shoot 35mm now, but I had a Cambo SCX for a while and was only a few hundred in. Furthermore, when I sold it, I lost exactly one dollar.
The Cambo is Heavy as heck.
wider tonal scale,
Can somebody help me understand if the improvement in tonal scale means more exposure latitude, or instead smoother transitions between the grey scales with the same absolute tonal range.
Then what seems to be the less than obvious reply and the one I would have posted first was almost completely invisible grain. Or completly invisable if you use something like PanF or TMax100. If it was for colour neg, then fabulous colour with terrific tones and saturation.
yeah i got in over my head quickly there. made the silly mistake of thinking the mamiya 6 was large format. so the real question is actually whether it's worthy to go from 35mm to MF. i can tell from all these replies that LF is way beyond my interest at the moment, but thanks for all the info.
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