I started mixing my own ECN-2 chemistry recently (it works fine on C-41 films, excellent on ECN-2 films, and surprisingly well on E6 films when paired with a B&W first developer). The nice thing about doing it DIY is that you can pre-measure small, one-shot batches of developer that will keep more or less indefinitely in powder form, so you no longer have to worry about shelf life. Stop/bleach/fixer seem to last in their liquid form on the shelf more or less indefinitely.
I too am a fairly low volume shooter. Maybe 1 or 2 rolls of color film a month on average. I was tired of saving up 12 rolls of film before buying a kit and using it to exhaustion. This way works great for me. It costs me about $1.50 USD to mix up 250ml of developer. That's enough for 3 rolls in terms of chemical exhaustion, but it's so inexpensive that I don't feel bad using it for a single roll, even a roll of 24 exposures. I just dump the pre-measured powders into distilled water, shake it up for a minute or so, and then put it in the water jacket to get up to temp alongside the prebath (for ECN-2 films), stop, bleach, and fixer. After an hour or so everything is sitting at 105°F, I can develop my film, hang it to dry, and close up shop.
I was just reading about C41 film in ECN-2 and it suggests you lose some of the saturation. That's a shame, I was getting all rev'd up
I started mixing my own ECN-2 chemistry recently (it works fine on C-41 films, excellent on ECN-2 films, and surprisingly well on E6 films when paired with a B&W first developer). The nice thing about doing it DIY is that you can pre-measure small, one-shot batches of developer that will keep more or less indefinitely in powder form, so you no longer have to worry about shelf life. Stop/bleach/fixer seem to last in their liquid form on the shelf more or less indefinitely.
I too am a fairly low volume shooter. Maybe 1 or 2 rolls of color film a month on average. I was tired of saving up 12 rolls of film before buying a kit and using it to exhaustion. This way works great for me. It costs me about $1.50 USD to mix up 250ml of developer. That's enough for 3 rolls in terms of chemical exhaustion, but it's so inexpensive that I don't feel bad using it for a single roll, even a roll of 24 exposures. I just dump the pre-measured powders into distilled water, shake it up for a minute or so, and then put it in the water jacket to get up to temp alongside the prebath (for ECN-2 films), stop, bleach, and fixer. After an hour or so everything is sitting at 105°F, I can develop my film, hang it to dry, and close up shop.
I'm using the recipes from this blog post.
...with a few modification. I'm not messing with sulfuric acid stop or sulfuric acid in my bleach. Regular old Kodak indicator stop bath at normal B&W dilution for the stop. So far it has not been a problem. I am also entirely skipping the difficult-to-source Kodak proprietary ingredients (anti calcium, anti foggant, etc.). Also hasn't been an issue so far.
As for the saturation, I haven't noticed, but I also haven't done an A/B test. I use a hybrid workflow for color film anyway, so if the saturation needs a bump, that's easy to do in post. If you're planning on RA4 printing or something it could be an issue.
That said, if ECN-2 isn't the right move for you, I suspect the same concept of just using powdered chemicals to make your own C-41 developer/stop/bleach/fix (or developer/blix or whatever you want to use) is probably doable too. You'd need CD-4 instead of CD-3 to make "proper" C-41 chemicals, but my point is, DIY options are frequently the most cost-effective, especially for low-volume shooters.
If it is someone's very first time trying color development, it is probably best to go with a simple liquid kit like Bellini and try it out first.
It might make things much more complicated if we go down the road of cross-processing in ECN-2 chemical and even mixing your own chemical. You might save a few pounds, but adding so many variables to a new adventure might not be worth it.
Mixing C-41 chemistry is no more difficult than ECN-2 chemistry. Instead of CD-3, there is CD-4. There are two more exotic chemicals in the formula - DTPA salt which can be omitted if using distilled/deionized water and Hydroxylamine Sulfate (HAS) which is a preservative - can be omitted if doing SINGLE SHOT developer but still good to have it as an optimization. It's not hard to come by, it's just a bit more expensive, but you don't need large quantities.
On the other hand, the ECN-2 process also has exotic chemicals - AF-2000 and ATMP salt. The first can be omitted without thinking about it, the second is similar to DTPA salt - you miss it if distilled/deionized water is used (from personal experience, in a well-sealed bottle the shelf life is more than a month). The interesting thing is that in the ECN-2 process there is no preservative as in C-41 - I have to make three samples without preservative - a week, a month, three months. Kodak claims that without HAS they observed a pH change (oxidation) after 24 hours, but maybe it's not that bad.
About the contrast and density of the negatives in ECN-2 chemistry - in my opinion, there is a little exaggeration. Indeed ECN-2 chemistry is intended for low contrast, but remember that Vision3 films are low contrast. However, if the processing time is increased to 3:45-4:00 min, they become quite acceptable. If you remove some or all of the bromide, the cross result with C-41 films will not be any different in terms of contrast. Some micro amount of iodide may be needed to compensate, but I wouldn't bother.
The Bellini is very much in the frame.
Clearly I have been watching too much UK crime drama, because this made me think you intended to go out and arrest it!
I'm afraid it'll be virtually impossible to get a good answer on that. I expect that Bellini's chemistry will behave similarly to Fuji's in terms of longevity.
One word of caution - I would not rely on a system where you mix developer as you need it, leaving the concentrates in their original bottles in the interim. The concentrate that contains the actual developer is prone to oxidization and as soon as the bottle is opened and a little amount is taken from it, this process will start. There's a little sulfite in that concentrate as well, but not much. This sulfite protects the developer until it runs out, but the sulfate also plays a role during development (it prevents excess dye formation), so if it is sacrificed to protect the developing agent, you're still working with an off-spec developer. I personally choose to mix all the developer into working strength in one go and then store that in entirely full, glass bottles. This has worked well for me for years.
The bleach concentrate can be kept in a partially full, plastic bottle. It'll do fine that way. The fixer concentrate also should be protected against oxidization so it doesn't sulfur out, although generally C41 fixer seems to fare a lot better than B&W fixer.
vacuum stoppers
Like vacuvin? Those are not very useful. Regular screw caps and full bottles so that there's no air in them form the best solution.
proper plastic chemical bottles
You need PET or glass for the developer. If the bottles turn out to be PP or HDPE, don't use them for the developer.
PET soda/water bottles work well, in generally. Take a trip to your local Tesco's and get a 6-pack of 500ml water bottles for £2 if you want something cheap. Or get a couple of glass bottles in various sizes with good fitting screw caps if you want extra insurance.
The problem with the vacuvin system is that it relies on people perceiving "vacuum" as an absolute thing. They believe you can "suck the air out" and then it'll be "a vacuum" inside. In reality, a vacuvin will allow you to remove maybe half the air inside the bottle (if you're lucky), and it'll leak back in the days/weeks after that. This is also why your wine really doesn't keep all that well if you use a vacuvin; you gain maybe a day or two compared to simply putting the cap/cork back on/in. It's not a very useful system and its success seems to rely more on its appeal than its real-world performance.
The bottles are HDPE. Does that react to the dev?
And are they OK for the rest of the stuff?
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