Although "Splitgrade" doesn't have a formal definition, the technique traditionally revolves around a system of making two test strips, one with all green light and one with all blue light, to determine exposure and paper grade/VC filtration. You then make the final print with two exposures to blue and green light.
Using blue & green LEDs with PWM intensity control isn't splitgrade - it is an LED variable contrast head. You would have a dial or Arduino setting to control the ratio of blue & green light intensities to give a reasonable range of paper grades. Of course nothing precludes using an LED head to do traditional splitgrade printing.
You might find the Darkroom Automation application note on metered splitgrade printing interesting http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/appnotesgmeasured.pdf - along with an application note on how VC papers work http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/appnotevcworkings.pdf
Forget about official "grades" as they are just fairly arbitrary ranges of ISO-R. To "calibrate" your grades, all you need is a Stouffer step tablet and some paper. You can define the grades as a combination of blue and green exposure within your specific implementation of a light source.
W.r.t. the light source, for b&w multigrade you can use whatever arrangement of blue and green LEDs you like. These can be strips, stars, individual (smd) LEDs on a PCB, COB etc. Whatever you choose, you'll have to make a light path that results in even exposure of the negative. Duffusion-based systems are easy to make; just experiment a bit with LED arrangement and e.g. milky plexiglass.
As to the controller, use any old Arduino etc of your choice with and LCD hooked up to it and buttons, rotary encoders and keypads as you see fit. Making a simple timer with two PWM outputs isn't very complicated.
This is a pretty straightforward project that many have undertaken; it's definitely feasible, just get cracking and have fun!
The whole point of split grade is to be able to burn & dodge during either or both of the separate exposures. That's almost by definition an empirical, intuitive process based on trial & error. If you want to do measurements on the negative to determine the single ISO-R grade that will encompass these measurements within the tonal scale on a single print, then that's not necessarily a split grade endeavor; it's basically just a multigrade/variable contrast approach where you replace a series of test strips by a measurement combined with calibration. Whether you then make the final exposure as a single exposure with both blue & green at the same time, or consecutive ones, really doesn't matter from the viewpoint of the paper. It does matter of course if you're going to burn & dodge, but then the question is what the added value of the initial measurement and the whole calibration circus would have been.But no one has addressed splitgrade, i.e. divided exposure and after calibration without the need to make test prints.
Indeed, I agree.It just doesn't feel like the computer is winning you much.
Microcontroller (ESP32, Arduino MEGA) for light control and exposure management.
Just about anything really bigger than an arduino really
Likewise, there are ATMega controllers with more flash and RAM than the '328P/PB.the atmega
AI is getting pretty good at writing embedded C++.the idea of doing anything in C nowadays feels more than I can be bothered with for a hobby project nowadays.
absolutely true, I've not looked at the alternative boards. I saw Arduino recently put out a non-avr board too with a higher spec. Most of my experience (and gear) in this area is 15 years old.[adrduino etc]
reading regurgitated stolen C++ isn't on my TODO list of an evening either. I've been writing Go for so long now everything else feels like hard work.AI is getting pretty good at writing embedded C++.
If you want higher-level language support, it's indeed a good idea to scale up the hardware.
I managed to get multi-exposure and f-stop support (with test strips), into about 24kb of flash, but got dangerously close to the 2kb RAM (as in about 2032 bytes). Improving the UX and adding a G+B graded exposure option wouldn't need much more, but enough that I need to start bigger refactors. I don't think I'd get an sd/mmc driver in there either. I /think/ I could do it on a microbit, and it has enough GPIOs, but I've not had a try (need to get on and actually do some printing). The microbit actually has bluetooth support too, giving hte option of moving print profiles on with a phone app... but mobile development is definitely not on my "doing that for a hobby" list either.I've run a color enlarger controller based on an Arduino Nano for a few years; it ran 3 color channels, timer programs for b&w and color mode and read out several encoders. This ran easily within the memory constraints of a '328P. However, given the negligible cost of far more powerful hardware (e.g. ESP32 platforms), I agree it's unnecessarily limiting to stick with the very old 328P/PB platform.
regurgitated stolen C++
Yeah, that's pretty high-level. May work OK for this sort of thing, but for many things that are closer to the hardware layer, the net benefit is marginal. Again, to each their own and there are plenty of ways to skin that cat.
I think given the cost of hardware these days I wouldn't consider it overkill necessarily. Sure, the same thing can be crammed into tiny little STM8F003 or $0.25 CH32v003, but if you look at the bigger picture, you need to factor in the time spent on making stuff work. If you can get there with two days' work with a $75 Pi while it would take a week of cursing on a bare metal approach, it's clear that the Pi wins. Assuming it has no soul, it won't mind being bored 99.995% of the time, hah!I do think a Pi is probably overkill
The Enlarging Timer, specifically.Another option would be waiting for the Dektronics Printalyzer
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