Is 80f too warm to develop?

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Ian Grant

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Temperature of 68f [20c] was set as the threshold for B/W as that is where they start to work.
above that it is a matter of how one stander the process.

18ºC / 65ºF was the recommendation in the first Manual of Photography (Ilford) in 1899/90. Later that went to a slightly more practical 20ºC / 68ºF.

The reason is simple, at higher temperatures early Gelatin emulsions were prone to sell more and very prone to processing issues, frilling off glass plates, excessive reticulation, because they were unhardened. Over the years films & plates slowly became better hardened, but good hardening was really only introduced in 1968 with the introduction of FP4 & HP4, and Kodak etc followed with their equivalents.

Kodak research showed that film development temperature did not have any effects on grain size, as Ron Mowrey (RE) posted some years ago. However, temperature variations between baths even with hardened films could cause what Kodak called surface artefacts, others call it incipient or micro reticulation. This leads to more apparent graininess in pints, it has been known about since the mid 190s and can be overcome by wet mounting. There was a BJP article in 1926 about wet mounting.

Modern Kodak films say they are optimised for scanning, this is actually greatly improved hardening. When digital minilabs were first introduced Kodak colour films were scanning with increased graininess compared to optical prints, Agfa & Fuji films were fine. This was the surface of the gelatin super coat interfering with the scanning. There's a Kodak Patent covering the research into the greatly improved hardening.

When you look at modern films, it is difficult at first glance to wee which is the emulsion side, because the super coat is so smooth. Older films are quite different.

Ian
 

DREW WILEY

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A water jacket can be as simple as a tray of water held at the correct temperature which you put your chemical containers in until they reach equilibrium. It could easily be 68F if you use any number of tricks already mentioned to cool the water down.

It also helps to use a pre-rinse in the loaded drum of the same temp, to bring its internal temp down. When you are not actually agitating the processing tank or drum, it should be resting in that tempered water tray in order to maintain the lower more practical temp.
 

Paul Howell

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As I recall 60s vintage films had a softer emulsion and at higher temps the emulsions could and did peel off. Fast forward 60 years and emulsions are now rather hard and can take higher temps. As noted by Sirius Glass there might be an issue if overall development drops below 5 minutes in terms of uneven development time. That might depend on which method is used SS tanks and reel vs plastic tanks and reels and large the tank is as how long it takes tank to empty. I recently used up the last of my Acufine and developed Foma 400 at 3 1/2 mint in a Patterson tank without issues, that was at 70 degrees, moving up to 75 would have a 2 min development time which is too short for me. At 68 to 80 I think you are safe with most films.
 

DREW WILEY

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Certainly not all films have firmer emulsions. Better safe than sorry.
 

cliveh

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I never develop film at temperatures + or - 5 degrees of 20C/68F
 

Sirius Glass

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Temperature of 68f [20c] was set as the threshold for B/W as that is where they start to work.
above that it is a matter of how one stander the process.

If the darkroom temperature is above 75°F, I turn on the air conditioner and cool the chemicals with cold water.
 

joho

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the room temp at 29c is mostly used [AST] Athens standard temp. With the results for the sheet films [ok]
Today used ice-cubes 23c.
 

Ron789

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A local store here, specialized in analog and with extremely knowledgeable owners, uses a developing machine that processes B&W films at 40 Celsius (approximately. 110 F) within one minute
 

Paul Howell

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Kodak Versiamate could be run at 75 up to 80 degrees. Some of the large processing labs that used package printers also used hot machines to process film, for these labs speed was a key component to their systems. The gain was very pronounced.
 

skahde

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No, not really. See #10. I think 20C was chosen because it's close to room temperature.

In the "AGFA Laborhandbuch" from 1936 room temperature was assumend as 18 deg. centigrade so this may have shifted with general improvements in heating and accomodation. In my experience b&w-paper won't develop well if temperature in the tray drops to 16 deg centigrade. 18 C seems to be quite a safe spot. With film I often encounter temperatures of above 22 deg. C where my tables dont give times for. I dont want to store lots of disitilled in the fridge and rather take one or two ice cubes made from distilled water to fill up the finaly volume of the developer.
 
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