Interesting new film - Film Washi

[AgX]

That "outrageous VAT" lies inbetween the limits the EU agreed on (15-27%)
The average (with only few peaks) is at 21.5%.

 

[removed account4]

I've sent a request to order 2x boxes of 5x4" 'film' - I actually bought a roll of Korean Hanji paper in August (from a poorly identified, and difficult to find upstairs shop in Seoul!) with a mind to coating it with liquid emulsion of some sort for a similar end. It'll be interesting to see how this works (and what the hell, I'm in the crazy Double X film order too, so it's clearly that season).

Marc!

looking forward to hearing your results !

i'll be heading to the paper source again
(where i got it the last time ) to see if they
have any left, and might buy some and coat it locally...

 

[Roger Cole]

That "outrageous VAT" lies inbetween the limits the EU agreed on (15-27%)
The average (with only few peaks) is at 21.5%.

And sales tax in the US runs 4%-9% or so depending on state and locality. I pay 6% where I live. So 20% seems pretty outrageous. All in what you're used to, I suppose.

 

[removed account4]

just wanted to ask if anyone got a chance to buy and use this?

 

[munz6869]

I've bought it, but haven't used it yet (it's sitting on my to do pile) - thanks for reminding me

Marc!

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I was just thinking about this, I am curious too if anyone tested it. Is like to buy a box of 4x5 now as well. Does anyone know how much shipping would be to the US?

 

[analoguey]

In the film/paper purchase thread Toadmen said he bought some. Waiting to hear his results.

Sent from Tap-a-talk

 

[TheToadMen]

In the film/paper purchase thread Toadmen said he bought some. Waiting to hear his results.

Hi analoguey,
I received my rolls last week. I think I'll use my pinhole camera for the first roll. Need to order the advised developer first, though. Other developers should do well also probably, but I don't want to introduce an extra variable at first.
I ordered 10 rolls Washi film, so I'll load my Hasselblad SWC, Holga and Rolleiflex T1 as well for testing. Maybe even my Bronica RF-645. Can't wait to see what it will bring me. I saw some interesting results on https://www.facebook.com/groups/669834733047409/
Bert from Holland

 

[Harold33]

I wonder what should be the correct washing procedure for this "film" ? Too long, it will remove the gelatine, too short, it will retain the fixer.

 

[removed account4]

i use hand coated paper all the time
( washi film is hand spooled hand coated paper )
you use something like perma wash / fixer remover it will
reduce washing times ....
i wonder how thin the paper is, very thin will be difficult. to develop
and this paper comes in many thicknesses

 

[TheToadMen]

Here is a youtube film about developing Washi Film:

[video=youtube;C1tuezJExpM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1tuezJExpM[/video]

It's French spoken, but the images speak for itself.

 

[Gaetan Cormier]

Hello all!!

I'm the one who made this video. Good news!!! I just did the english subtitles... My english is not perfect, but it will give you a very good idea of what I'm explaining
Enjoy the video!

Gaetan Cormier

Here is a youtube film about developing Washi Film:

[video=youtube;C1tuezJExpM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1tuezJExpM[/video]

It's French spoken, but the images speak for itself.

 

[analoguey]

Aha!

Its a small world after all, @Gaetan?

@Toadmen, thanks! Just checked the FB group now - some of the images are quite nice - and sepia!

 

[Gaetan Cormier]

hehehe! :munch:

 

[Arklatexian]

It sounds like it can be developed in the likes of Dektol or Ilford MG/PQ.

I was intrigued to read that it can be "printed using in an enlarger." It's not a transparency as far as I can tell. Is the paper that thin?

Kodak once made what they called a "document weight" F-2 Kodabromide that could be used to make what we called in the old days "paper negatives. You put a negative in the enlarger and made a print. After the print was dry, you could do a certain amount of retouching. Then you contacted that print on to another piece of paper and developed it. This, of course, yielded a negative which could also be retouched. When this was contact printed on to a third piece of paper, you had your final print. In the hands of the right person, these were works of art. I think Mortenson worked with these some......Regards

 

[removed account4]

Hello all!!

I'm the one who made this video. Good news!!! I just did the english subtitles... My english is not perfect, but it will give you a very good idea of what I'm explaining
Enjoy the video!

Gaetan Cormier

hi gaetan:

belle vidéo, et de belles images

J'ai 2 questions ...

comment mince est le papier?
il semblait être très frisés ...
(Je sais qu'il ya différents types de mulbury (washi) papiers.
sont les dernières images de l'agrandisseur? ou contacter?

john

 

[analoguey]

Kodak once made what they called a "document weight" F-2 Kodabromide that could be used to make what we called in the old days "paper negatives. You put a negative in the enlarger and made a print. After the print was dry, you could do a certain amount of retouching. Then you contacted that print on to another piece of paper and developed it. This, of course, yielded a negative which could also be retouched. When this was contact printed on to a third piece of paper, you had your final print. In the hands of the right person, these were works of art. I think Mortenson worked with these some......Regards

I am curious - why go through the negative-positive-negative-positive step so many times? Wouldnt it be easier to do a test print and then go with things? Or was it for archiving purposes? (Not sure having more negatives helped there?)

 

[removed account4]

Kodak once made what they called a "document weight" F-2 Kodabromide that could be used to make what we called in the old days "paper negatives. You put a negative in the enlarger and made a print. After the print was dry, you could do a certain amount of retouching. Then you contacted that print on to another piece of paper and developed it. This, of course, yielded a negative which could also be retouched. When this was contact printed on to a third piece of paper, you had your final print. In the hands of the right person, these were works of art. I think Mortenson worked with these some......Regards

hi oldtimermetoo:

do you mean single weight paper?
they made it till the very end.
azo ( silver chloride contact print / gaslight ) paper was single weight ( but wicked-slow )
and last made in the late 90s/early 00's was polymax fine art ( normal speed ).
i still use polymax fine art for paper negatives ... ( in camera )
you can use any weight paper as paper negatives/to contact print.
"thicker" papers just take a little more time,
and print without issue, or you can shorten the time by waxing them ( can be messy ).
john

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I've always found that I get to much contrast when retouching on paper and contacting more than one time. I think it's a bit easier on a larger negative, but pencil on paper is good too. I still need a lot more practice, maybe one of those fancy retouching vibrating table things too.

 

[removed account4]

hi newt_on_swings

if you use MG paper you might not have this problem
i was once given a 5x7 print by someone
and asked if i could make copies of it ... i contact printed a negative
and just rolled out positives ... the person who originally made the print
i gave both the negative and print to, and she couldn't believe the
contact prints looked as good as the original. the problem i had with the prints
isn't that they were too contrasty, it was some people put them in a sealed frame
and they silvered-out ... looked cool though as all that silver migrated and made
the cheap rc prints look like daguerreotypes i always thought it was bad chemicals
that did it, until i learned here it was something else, and never to seal in rc prints

naaah you don't need an adams desk,
they are nice and like a rollsroyce but, if you can find an OLD STYLE
retouching desk like this http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...retouching+desk&_nkw=retouching+desk&_sacat=0
( or something similar ) it might work ...

 

[Gaetan Cormier]

Bonjour John!

I'll reply in english since we are in the english section of the forum.
So your questions were if the washi film is thin and if the last images in my video were prints made at the enlarger or contact prints...

Washi film is very very thin and that's probably the main reason why it curls so much and the images at the end of my video are scanned with an Epson V500

comment mince est le papier?
il semblait être très frisés ...
(Je sais qu'il ya différents types de mulbury (washi) papiers.
sont les dernières images de l'agrandisseur? ou contacter?

john

 

[pdeeh]

the images at the end of my video are scanned with an Epson V500

I think the question is are they scans of the negative, or scans of contact prints made from the negatives?

 

[removed account4]

Bonjour John!

I'll reply in english since we are in the english section of the forum.
So your questions were if the washi film is thin and if the last images in my video were prints made at the enlarger or contact prints...

Washi film is very very thin and that's probably the main reason why it curls so much and the images at the end of my video are scanned with an Epson V500

thanks!

is it like tissue paper thin ? or just thin paper?
is it easy to flatten after they are dried, or is it
equally as curly as you attempt to scan it ?

i self-coat papers all the time and that is a problem
i sometimes have as well ...

i imagine the sheet-sizes are easier to use ...

( thanks for the translation ! )

john

 

[Gaetan Cormier]

It's very thin paper that reminds me of tracing paper
When it dries it curls like crazy!!! But once dried, just put your film under a couple of heavy books and it will flatten!

Indeed yes, apparently the 4x5 are easier to manipulate!

thanks!

is it like tissue paper thin ? or just thin paper?
is it easy to flatten after they are dried, or is it
equally as curly as you attempt to scan it ?

i self-coat papers all the time and that is a problem
i sometimes have as well ...

i imagine the sheet-sizes are easier to use ...

( thanks for the translation ! )

john

 

[removed account4]

thanks gaetan !