They were banned here about 10 years ago and you can still go to the shop and by them and if they dont have the right one you can get it on line for delivery next day. There is probably enough stock to last another 100 years if they stop manufacturing.
you can still go to the shop and by them
Retailers can face a fine of some stupid amount, like $500, per illegal bulb they sell, if caught - in the US, as of the end of August.
How exactly are you using standard LED bulbs in your enlarger?
There is an exemption on specialty bulbs. They want people to switch to low voltage LED's where possible.....its just a bit of common sense.
I use a standard GE 1055 bulb, same out put as a 75 watt tungsten, contrast is bit lower than a tungsten bulb, not to hard to compensate with VC paper. My negatives are scaled to print grade 2, older negatives from the 60s and 70s have more contrast and print grade 3. If I need to print grade 4 I do switch to a tungsten. Some feel that there is a afterglow, if there is it is consistent and posed no problems for me in terms of having prints darker than anticipated. I use LED in both D3 and Meopta Opemus 3.
I went to Adorama to look for bulbs for my 23c II.... havent used it wtih the plain bulb... it came burnt out..
I was assumed that the 23c II used a PH-111A bulb as the lamp holder says DRAKE 75w 125V
But cant find anything other then PH-211 on adorama and am utterly confused..
But am also confused on how the hell those bulbs are removed from the lamp socket
Thank you for your reply. So I looked up the above bulbs and they are listed as 2700k. Last time I measured a bulb from my enlarger it was about 3200 iirc. That would explain the lower contrast. I converted my enlarger in the motorhome to 12 volt LED @ 4000K and it is 1 grade high. It does have a bit of afterglow, but it has not been a problem. Using a spot meter on the baseboard the illumination fall off is the same.
Thank you for your reply. So I looked up the above bulbs and they are listed as 2700k. Last time I measured a bulb from my enlarger it was about 3200 iirc. That would explain the lower contrast. I converted my enlarger in the motorhome to 12 volt LED @ 4000K and it is 1 grade high. It does have a bit of afterglow, but it has not been a problem. Using a spot meter on the baseboard the illumination fall off is the same.
There's a conflict. If LED's reduce demand on the grid, electric vehicles raise it by a lot more. We got to make up our minds.
Colour temperature is an average. With the spiky type of spectral emission from LED lamps, that average doesn't tell you much about how well the LED is matched to the colour response of darkroom papers.
Why the "ban" on incandescent bulbs? If LED bulbs are better then everyone will quit buying incandescent bulbs and go LED right? What is wrong with letting everyone choose what they want to light their homes with?
What about the full spectrum ones for interior lighting... I have one and it SEEMS stable but has that 2-4 second after glow when you turn it off.
But if we use contrast filters... does spikes matter?
I also have a Omega Cold Light source and matching electric shutter, but the shutter is no longer working, I guess I will look into fixing it. The FL light does not work well with VC paper, as long as I can get Foma grade 2 and 3, should be ok.
I use an led that i can change to any color and it works fine. Theyre marketed towards vlogging and stuff.Anyone stocking up for the future should remember their darkroom safelights.
A few years ago I hoarded a load of incandescent, 15 watt pygmy bulbs.
I am glad that I did. Whenever I see them on the shelves, which is not very often, the prices have gone through the roof.
Such a long afterglow is inconvenient with printing, although if printing times are sufficiently long on average, and the afterglow is consistent, even this will work. However, there are plenty of bulbs out there that are more or less instant-off (and instant-on as well). I'd go for one of those. Try a couple until you find one that's appropriate.
As to the spikes; no, they don't necessarily matter. As @BMbikerider said above, you may need to re-assess the effective grades your filters give. Or just not worry about it too much and determine if you can still hit something close enough to grade 5 for your taste, and then just proceed in your merry ways. It's not always necessary to overcomplicate things to excess.
Arri leds are close to 95cri fwiw
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