In the 70s, 80s, in analog Mf cameras, which one was better Nikon, Canon or Minolta?

[Les Sarile]

You should think twice about handling the Minolta XE-7 as it will make you think that there might be something wrong with other camera's film advance mechanism! It is undoubtedly the smoothest operating camera that I have.

The SRT101 and 102 are just robust full featured machines equal to anything in the era from any manufacturer.

The 1972 XK features were so advance it was more comparable to 1980's pro models of Nikon F3 and Canon new F-1.

Of course quality Minolta glass are second to none.

 

[lightdreamer]

I recommend to stay with Minolta too.

First of all there is the Rokkor glass, in sharpness equal the best of the best...
(I remember my fabiolus MC Rokkor 1.4 50mm to slightly beat the best others
including Takumar, Canon and Nikkor 1.4 50mm when viewing Kodachrome 25 Slides at 100x enlargement and that also happened with my Rokkor 2/85 and the Rokkor Makro 4/100mm.)

But thats not the most important to me. Minolta learned a lot when working together with Leica when designing Cameras and lenses together in the past.

The XE-1 (7) (like the R3) is really a shining star of its time. And that continues for the XD-7 (11) (R4-R6), really made with the photographers hand in mind. There were Rokkors as the 1.7/85, the 1.2/58 and others, that really drove the Leica picture drawing philosophie, like bokeh and overall composition to its best (try them at f2.8). I never found a Nikkor or Canon lens of that time to come close.

The Minolta Rokkor lens line additionally has a unique feature not found in any lens line of that time. The achromatic coating wasn't only used to reduce reflections as with the main competitors, but also to bring a wide range of focal lengthes to nearly equal color reproduction what is important especially when shooting slides.

Despite having Canon, Nikon and Pentax lenses I really enjoy shooting with the late MC Rokkor lenses most of them when shooting 35mm MF gear.

BG lightdreamer

 

[ic-racer]

Did someone ask about "best manual focus 80s camera?"....

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

Did someone ask about "best manual focus 80s camera?"....

Nice, though as arguable an assertion as almost all the other posts on this thread...

I seem to hardly ever use my 3003, maybe because of having to keep the akkus charged or because of size & weight. Other points against it are fiddly loading, not so reliable electronics and the AE lock switch. But still a lovely, unique and formidable beast...

BTW: Have the same lenses as in your photo, with the 35 being my absolute favorite lens for the 3-d look it gives (though less for carrying around).

 

[ic-racer]

BTW: Have the same lenses as in your photo, with the 35 being my absolute favorite lens for the 3-d look it gives (though less for carrying around).

Have you ever used the 15mm? I offered someone $1500 for one a few years ago, but he wanted to sell his collection all together. I kind of gave up looking after I got a 125mm lens for my 8x10 camera.

 

[hoffy]

This thread is so refreshing, compared to the crap you read on D#$#t&l forums. If this was posted on one of them, there would be a real bungfight by now....very refreshing

 

[elekm]

To take this in a different direction, look at the cameras from the 1960s and 1970s that are still running problem free today.

I've had a Minolta XG-7 with circuit problems, but I've been lucky with an XD 11 and all of the SR T 20x models. I've had all sorts of problems with the Rolleiflex SL 35 M/ME/E -- electronics, mostly. The Canon AE-1 has a known issue with the squeak.

The humble and simple Pentax K1000 cameras still pound out photo after photo, as does the early Spotmatic (mechanically very similar to the K1000), as do many Nikons. I have a Nikon EL2 that eats batteries faster than I can buy them. A Nikkormat FT3 is bulletproof. And I've yet to have any problems with my F2A and FE. My former roommate, meanwhile, has had several mechanical problems with his FM, bought about a month after my FE back in 1980.

But I guess you can find stellar performers and dogs among all of the camera makers and models.

 

[fstop]

To take this in a different direction, look at the cameras from the 1960s and 1970s that are still running problem free today.

I've had a Minolta XG-7 with circuit problems, but I've been lucky with an XD 11 and all of the SR T 20x models. I've had all sorts of problems with the Rolleiflex SL 35 M/ME/E -- electronics, mostly. The Canon AE-1 has a known issue with the squeak.

The humble and simple Pentax K1000 cameras still pound out photo after photo, as does the early Spotmatic (mechanically very similar to the K1000), as do many Nikons. I have a Nikon EL2 that eats batteries faster than I can buy them. A Nikkormat FT3 is bulletproof. And I've yet to have any problems with my F2A and FE. My former roommate, meanwhile, has had several mechanical problems with his FM, bought about a month after my FE back in 1980.

But I guess you can find stellar performers and dogs among all of the camera makers and models.

Ah yes the infamous Canon squeal. Not too hard to fix though. The needle through the bottom does work but you need a grain of wheat light up inside the body to find the right spot otherwise you risk soaking the cloth shutter curtains.The right way is to take the top off though.
Actually thats a good way to get bargain on a camera, pick up a Canon squealer lube up the mirror damper and put in new foam, you'll have less than 50 into an A-1.

I have a nikon FA that eat batteries if left in the body.Its not a camera for stealth, the shutter noise will wake up the dead. Don't get me wrong I've loved them since they came out, just reporting the facts.

My love my Minolta XDs, compact, quiet, reliable and durable.

You should think twice about handling the Minolta XE-7 as it will make you think that there might be something wrong with other camera's film advance mechanism! It is undoubtedly the smoothest operating camera that I have

.

Thats true.They are smooooth.

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

Have you ever used the 15mm? I offered someone $1500 for one a few years ago, but he wanted to sell his collection all together. I kind of gave up looking after I got a 125mm lens for my 8x10 camera.

I have the 15mm, but in Leica R mount (optically identical), the Rollei mount version being too hard/expensive to find.

Very nice lens. While the newer, Schneider-made 15mm is supposed to be even better, I find little to fault it with (some ghosting with bright lights in the image, corners could be sharper wide open).

 

[djacobox372]

Nikons are nice because of their forward compatibility. It's impressive that u can use a 1970's lens on a 2010 dslr, but it's even more impressive hat u can use a 2011 lens on a 1960's camera.

As long as a nikon lens has an aperture ring and isn't aps it will work on just about every nikon slr.

 

[fstop]

Nikons are nice because of their forward compatibility. It's impressive that u can use a 1970's lens on a 2010 dslr, but it's even more impressive hat u can use a 2011 lens on a 1960's camera.

As long as a nikon lens has an aperture ring and isn't aps it will work on just about every nikon slr.

I have both nikon slr film cameras and dslr cameras, that whole thing with the lenses forward and backward compatibility is nothing more than advertising BS.

The older lenses need to be chipped to make effective use on DSLR and AF lenses are difficult to focus on a manual body and G lenses... well forget it altogether.

I see no reason to hobble a hi tech camera, using older lenses defeats the whole purpose of the camera.
Or struggling to get focus.
Sure it can be done, you'll do it once and probably never again. I wouldn't let the lens compatibility influence a DSLR purchase decision.

 

[kwall]

Nikon, Canon and Minolta, which one to get from 70s and 80s manual focus?

Yes.

 

[ozphoto]

I was a Canon kid (still am) and started with a used black body AE-1P with a 50mm f1.8.

From there I upgraded to an A1 with MA motordrive and kitted myself out with lenses from 28mm - a 300 f2.8. Next purchase was an original F1 and drive (traded in my AE-1P and picked it up for an extra $100). Think the dent in the prism saved me some $$. What a tank!!!!

Sadly, digital took over the wants my clients insisted upon, and I took the leap into EOS, by purchasing an original series EOS1 for film and a 10D for digital.

I sold the A1 and its MA drive for $150 more than I paid for it and parted out the rest of the gear slowly, the last of the kit to go was the F1 and a 50mm f1.4 SC (came with the A1 originally).

Made $200 on that baby - but today, I still miss my MF gear an awful lot. If I hadn't been forced into moving to digital, I'd still have that kit - it was awesome!

 

[fstop]

You can get decent cosmetic condition A-1s off ebay that squeal cheap, oil it yourself and you're in.