Impressed on Tetenal C-41 chems mixed 3.5 months ago

[hpulley]

My blix definitely pops the lid on my Paterson Super System 4 tanks if I don't give it some room for expansion.

 

[hrst]

Yeah I still remember when I used Tetenal chemistry with a blix instead of separate bleach and fix, it really produced some gas at volumes high enough to pop up the lid. I use Jobo tanks ( like http://www.freestylephoto.biz/images/prod/551520.jpg ) and the red lid has that thingie in the middle so when you push it down before processing, the tank has enough extra volume so that the lid doesn't pop out, only the thingie comes up. Did I make myself clear ?

The other interesting feature in blix kits was the funny "viscosity" of the blix. Separate bleach is more like regular water.

 

[hpulley]

Yeah, the blix is quite viscous which is a problem. It doesn't really come off that well so you lose some after a while. I'm way past the number of rolls I should have been able to run through my 1L kit so it doesn't owe me anything anyways but I'm way down on the 1L of blix that's for sure, you lose some every time you pour it.

 

[Tony-S]

It looks like the negs are pretty much a match for the same film (Fuji Pro 160S) processed by the local lab, so I think I did the development ok. Looks like I have to shoot more color neg film in the next several weeks. A good thing. These are from the Bronica with 150mm lens.

 

[wblynch]

Well, after 27+ rolls and 16 months I think my Arista C-41 is pretty much dead. Oh, it will still develop film and I can get good colors (electronically - with some work) but the negatives don't look right and I'm certain it would be nearly impossible to print optically to RA-4.

I think I'll try it on some C-41 B/W just for fun.

I know this thread is for Tetenal C-41 but I have a feeling that Arista is the same stuff.

 

[hpulley]

My 1L Tetenal kit mixed in January is still going strong! My blix and the dev now too are sucking in their guts in the bottles so I clip test before every roll I develop but I just did what must be roll #20 or something (losing count) of K'odak Gen 2 (Portra 160NC) hand reloaded 126 and it is drying now. The colors look good and obvious in the negative (some nice red and green wreaths) and the blix still seems to be clearing to the orange base. No need to mix my next kit yet though I will do a clip test before every roll from now until it is exhausted.

 

[hpulley]

Quick scan off the latest roll, need to redo it, not using the 35mm carrier to get the whole square 28x28mm but just to check the colors, Kodak Instamatic 500 with Xenar 38mm f/2.8 lens at 1/125 f/8 IIRC, Portra 160NC expired June 2010:

TO OUR GLORIOUS DEAD by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[stars]

thanks for your feedback on all your experiences. I have the tetenal c-41 kit stored at room temp. I mixed the kit on 19th November 2010 and have developed 8 rolls. I haven't used it for about 8 weeks now. an to think I was worried.

 

[hpulley]

Still going...

I mixed my 1L Tetenal/JOBO kit in January, I think on the 14th. This morning I souped three rolls of Fuji Reala 120 in it. I did a clip test first to be sure it was still developing and blixing OK (as well as you can tell from a C-41 clip test, just density and clearing, no colors) and I developed each roll individually to make sure it didn't crap out on me since I know it's going to one of these rolls. I checked each roll as it was drying before souping the next roll. It still works! This must be about 23 rolls for me now in this 1L kit, unbelievable. I hope I don't ruin a roll one day but so far it still seems to be working well.

Just a couple of quick scans off the first roll, bad dust... need to RA-4 print some of these...


IMG_0002 by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


IMG_0003 by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[wjlapier]

Just read through this thread. Harry, I'm impressed that you got as many rolls developed as you did. I'd like to ask a few questions if you don't mind. I'm new to developing color. Done plenty of B&W.

How do you store your chemicals? Whats sort of bottle? After each development, do you pour all chems back into the original bottle? How do you keep chemicals at the temp required?

I'm really looking forward to developing some color. My local Walgreens was cheap to develop/scan, but this last time they ruined two rolls, so I'm doing it myself.

Finally, have you figured out how much your developing cost was after 23 rolls?

Thanx for sharing your experience.

 

[hpulley]

I bought three 1L Photographer's Formulary plastic bottles to store the three solutions.

Yes, I pour the working solutions back into the RIGHT bottle after each run; don't get them mixed up!

I use hot tap water in a 4L Rubbermade tub to get the dev and blix to 39C and store 4L of 39C water aside for the 1min presoak and wash. Stab stays at room temp.

I store the chems in a cold cellar when I won't use them for a while.

Freestyle has the 1L kit for $18, B&H has it for $20. 23 rolls so far is $0.78-$0.86/roll and I'm still using it so the per roll cost is still falling

 

[hpulley]

Roll 24 (I think) done on the same 1L Tetenal chems, another roll of Fuji Reala 120, shot in the Yashicaflex this time. Still drying but looks good, the right color base and the colors look good in reverse. I clip tested beforehand again and it looked good so I went ahead. One of these days it will catch up with me and the clip test won't really mean I can do a whole roll but so far, so good.

Will scan them tomorrow and, Purolator willing, print them this week! I should have a 5"x575' roll of Kodak Ektacolor and a package of Fuji Crystal Archive II 8x10" paper to go along with my Kodak 10L RA-4 chems. Then I can play the how long do Kodak RA-4 working solutions last game in addition to the JOBO/Tetenal game.

 

[hpulley]

Color still looks good! Just quick scans again, the proof will be in the print...


Mirror sky edit by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Video gaming 2 edit by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[wblynch]

Pretty cool Harry. Maybe you can post a scan of one of your prints when you have them?

 

[hpulley]

The paper is waiting for me! I will pick it up later. I will certainly post print scans.

 

[hpulley]

Real optical RA-4 prints, I'm in heaven! Labs haven't done these around here for years, just digital prints; even if they are wet RA-4 prints they aren't optically enlarged, they're scan & print which is just yuck IMO.

So happy... I will still be playing with color balance and different papers. I have Kodak Supra, Endra and Fuji Crystal Archive II but so far I've just been experimenting with the Endura Professional, wonderful paper even a couple years expired.


Farm RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Garden RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Haybales RA-4 print (pe) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Halle RA-4 print (pec) by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

 

[wblynch]

Nice work Harry !!

 

[Tony-S]

I'm getting ready to process my first roll (120 Fujicolor Pro160S) and I want to make sure that after the stabilizer it's a good idea to rinse once in Photo Flo, right? Then just hang and dry.

Negs look ok so far - a bit milky, but that's to be expected as I understand and will clear upon drying.

OK, I finally got around to my second and third rolls of C-41 tonight, this time Portra 160 NC. Both rolls have crud on them that look like water spots. This didn't happen on my first roll when I inadvertently rinsed with Photo Flo prior to hanging. Can I rerinse the negs again? Might Photo Flow have prevented this the first time? I've never seen this with my B&W negs and I processed a roll of HP5+ in Rodinal earlier today, so I don't think it's my water.

 

[Chris Douglas]

Unicolor works well too

I had a bottle on the shelf from a Unicolor kit I mixed in August of 09, never opened after mixing, full except for a small bubble of air. I would never attempt this with serious shots, so I went for a walk and shot a couple of rolls of Gold 200. One I developed with the 20 month old Unicolor kit, and the other I took to Costco. You might not believe it but there wasn't a lot of difference. The Costco roll was slightly denser but I am sure I could get good enlargements from either. I also did this when the kit was 13 months old and got excellent results. The developer and blix are perfectly clear with no sludge or precipitate. I wish RA-4 lasted like this. A couple of weeks and its a mess. I'm not suggesting anyone try this, it was a test just for grins. It makes me wonder why C-41 lasts so much longer than RA-4 (Arista kit).
Also, I was pleased with the development at Costco. Looks good and cost less than $2. Wow, I can't compete with that! From now on I will develop 120 only, and I'll let Costco do the 35mm.

 

[hpulley]

24 rolls is what I got from my last 1L JOBO/Tetenal kit. I shot a couple rolls of Ektar and went to process them this morning but clip tested first and the clip came out nearly blank so it was obvious that the developer was shot. Thus I mixed up a new 1L JOBO/Tetenal Press Kit and developed the two rolls of Ektar 120. They're still drying, might be dry by now... but from the negs they look great! I'll scan them soon and will print some RA-4 tonight if I'm still awake after my guests go home.

 

[hpulley]

Next batch of JOBO/Tetenal, Kodak Ektar 120:

 

[SMBooth]

Looks great, i just brought a kit today because my lab doesn't do 4x5 C41.
So a quick question even before I read the instructions, there are 6 small bottle which i assume make up into 6 litre components, do I need to store this in dark bottle and remove the air for best storage practice?

 

[hpulley]

Yes, keeping air out certainly helps, otherwise the developer and blix will oxidize faster. Not sure the bottles need to be dark but I use dark plastic bottles.

 

[SMBooth]

Great I will get some 1 litre bottles and mix it all up and try it out during the week on two sheets in a unicolour drum.
Thanks

 

[hpulley]

Developed the 20th roll (full, all 120 or 135-36 rolls so far) on my current 1L kit. Color still looks good, Kodak new Portra 400:


Portra Poppy 2A by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Portra 400 Lupins by Harry Pulley, on Flickr


Columbine Portra by Harry Pulley, on Flickr

Will print them shortly on Fuji CA and/or Kodak Supra.