Importance of fixer and stop bath in film/developer "recipe?"

[Sirius Glass]

Stop bath ends the developing sooner and more completely than water will. That is just the chemistry of stop bath. It neutralized the developer fast and evenly. Water may or may not stop the developer, and developer which was not stopped can shorten the life of the hypo.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

The simple answer is... no. You can use any stop bath and any fixer for any regular film. Just check that the fixer can handle film: there are some fixers that are meant for fixing prints only.
I guess there may be some exotic products that are not so universal, but I cannot mention any example......

You can use pretty much any stop bath and any fixer with any film.the basic chemistry is very similar.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Few days ago I found a 1,5% indicator stop bath solution (acetic acid) that I was using about 18 months ago. It was still yellow, so definitely acidic. The bottle had shrunk a bit, so some oxidation must have occurred. Other than that, everything seemed fine.

In other words, the 25% solution won't lose its acidity over time.

The usual stop baths do not oxidize. The only one would be sodium bisulfite which is very uncommon. Don't know what caused the observed bottle shrinkage.

 

[Vaughn]

It is good for beginners to use the recommended chemicals at the recommended dilutions, temps and time (and I suppose, aggitation). Much easier to trouble shoot problems that might show up..

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

No pyro developer does not use the common hypos, instead it requires TF-4 or TF-5. Otherwise yes.

Not true. I have been using Pyrocat-HD for years with various films fixed in Ilford rapid fixer for years with no I'll effects. I've also used PMK and Rollo Pyro.

 

[Vaughn]

Andrew, in the past, my results have been the same with Rollo. I used Kodak Rapid (Part A only).

 

[Ian Grant]

Not true. I have been using Pyrocat-HD for years with various films fixed in Ilford rapid fixer for years with no I'll effects. I've also used PMK and Rollo Pyro.

Completely agree, so have I. It's one of those myths like the old recommendation to place PMK negatives back in the developer after fixing and a rinse to improve the stain. All it does is oxidised Pyrogallol increase base stain unevenly, detrimental not beneficial

Ian

 

[hacked - sepiareverb]

Wow. So many convoluted answers to a simple question. And the longest running argument on the internet automatically dragged into the thread. Welcome to apug.

I'd suggest a basic book, like the Horenstein - or something similar - a trustworthy source geared towards a Photo One class. It will give you all the standard information about what is going on in the process, from one source rather than from twenty sources who won't agree on anything. You will also avoid having to sift through irrelevant information that will only make the entire process seem more complicated than it needs to be. It is very easy to develop film, and the basic process as detailed in every book will work fine.

Not intending to complicate matters: but the chemistry is not that complex. There are several types of acid that work to stop development, different brands use different acids. Fixer is the same, various formulas using several similar compounds which all do the same thing. Just like developers. Mix and match from the commonly available options as you wish, and as long as the sequence is correct you won't cause problems. Down the road, you may try different kinds of chemistry and may find one works better for you for reasons of cost, availability, convenience, storage, odor. I've settled on convenience for stop and fix. I like to keep it simple.

Enjoy!

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Gees guys! The OP just wanted to know if he has to use chemicals of the same brand or if he can mix and match. Short answer: Any developer, stop and fix will work with any other; just follow the manufacturers' directions.

Best,

Doremus