Importance of fixer and stop bath in film/developer "recipe?"

Tomato

A
Tomato

  • 2
  • 0
  • 19
Cool

A
Cool

  • 3
  • 0
  • 34
Coquitlam River BC

D
Coquitlam River BC

  • 4
  • 0
  • 39
Mayday celebrations

A
Mayday celebrations

  • 2
  • 2
  • 84
MayDay celebration

A
MayDay celebration

  • 2
  • 0
  • 84

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
197,564
Messages
2,761,116
Members
99,404
Latest member
ManfrediFilm
Recent bookmarks
0

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,155
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
Stop bath ends the developing sooner and more completely than water will. That is just the chemistry of stop bath. It neutralized the developer fast and evenly. Water may or may not stop the developer, and developer which was not stopped can shorten the life of the hypo.
 

RalphLambrecht

Subscriber
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
14,569
Location
K,Germany
Format
Medium Format
The simple answer is... no. You can use any stop bath and any fixer for any regular film. Just check that the fixer can handle film: there are some fixers that are meant for fixing prints only.
I guess there may be some exotic products that are not so universal, but I cannot mention any example......
You can use pretty much any stop bath and any fixer with any film.the basic chemistry is very similar.
 

Gerald C Koch

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
8,131
Location
Southern USA
Format
Multi Format
Few days ago I found a 1,5% indicator stop bath solution (acetic acid) that I was using about 18 months ago. It was still yellow, so definitely acidic. The bottle had shrunk a bit, so some oxidation must have occurred. Other than that, everything seemed fine.

In other words, the 25% solution won't lose its acidity over time.

The usual stop baths do not oxidize. The only one would be sodium bisulfite which is very uncommon. Don't know what caused the observed bottle shrinkage.
 

Vaughn

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
10,027
Location
Humboldt Co.
Format
Large Format
It is good for beginners to use the recommended chemicals at the recommended dilutions, temps and time (and I suppose, aggitation). Much easier to trouble shoot problems that might show up..
 

Andrew O'Neill

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
11,775
Location
Coquitlam,BC Canada
Format
Multi Format
No pyro developer does not use the common hypos, instead it requires TF-4 or TF-5. Otherwise yes.
Not true. I have been using Pyrocat-HD for years with various films fixed in Ilford rapid fixer for years with no I'll effects. I've also used PMK and Rollo Pyro.
 

Vaughn

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
10,027
Location
Humboldt Co.
Format
Large Format
Andrew, in the past, my results have been the same with Rollo. I used Kodak Rapid (Part A only).
 

Ian Grant

Subscriber
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
23,234
Location
West Midland
Format
Multi Format
Not true. I have been using Pyrocat-HD for years with various films fixed in Ilford rapid fixer for years with no I'll effects. I've also used PMK and Rollo Pyro.

Completely agree, so have I. It's one of those myths like the old recommendation to place PMK negatives back in the developer after fixing and a rinse to improve the stain. All it does is oxidised Pyrogallol increase base stain unevenly, detrimental not beneficial :D

Ian
 

sepiareverb

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
1,103
Location
St J Vermont
Format
Multi Format
Wow. So many convoluted answers to a simple question. And the longest running argument on the internet automatically dragged into the thread. Welcome to apug.

I'd suggest a basic book, like the Horenstein - or something similar - a trustworthy source geared towards a Photo One class. It will give you all the standard information about what is going on in the process, from one source rather than from twenty sources who won't agree on anything. You will also avoid having to sift through irrelevant information that will only make the entire process seem more complicated than it needs to be. It is very easy to develop film, and the basic process as detailed in every book will work fine.

Not intending to complicate matters: but the chemistry is not that complex. There are several types of acid that work to stop development, different brands use different acids. Fixer is the same, various formulas using several similar compounds which all do the same thing. Just like developers. Mix and match from the commonly available options as you wish, and as long as the sequence is correct you won't cause problems. Down the road, you may try different kinds of chemistry and may find one works better for you for reasons of cost, availability, convenience, storage, odor. I've settled on convenience for stop and fix. I like to keep it simple.

Enjoy!
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
3,565
Location
Eugene, Oregon
Format
4x5 Format
Gees guys! The OP just wanted to know if he has to use chemicals of the same brand or if he can mix and match. Short answer: Any developer, stop and fix will work with any other; just follow the manufacturers' directions.

Best,

Doremus
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom