Ilford XP2

[grat]

Of course I can. And I do. Moreover, I owned the improved version of his scanner (the 120 Pro) and talked to other technically competent owners. I do, however, regret being blunt about it. On the other hand, this is the gearhead's forum. We should be honest about limitations of our gear.

Honesty is one thing. But if someone's getting good results, and you aren't, you can't just make a blanket statement that the product sucks. Plustek is known to have serious quality control issues, and variability between units is well documented.

If someone claims the Epson v800 isn't capable of more than 700 PPI, and I'm getting 2400+ on a regular basis, they're doing something wrong.

As a rule, however, a seriously under, or over, exposed negative will produce a very grainy (noisy) scan.

 

[Auer]

Pentax 645N | SMC Pentax-FA 645 45-85mm ƒ4.5 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 @200ISO | Eco Pro | CS F96



Rain Day Still-7 by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Auer]

Pentax 645N | SMC Pentax-FA 645 45-85mm ƒ4.5 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 @200ISO | Eco Pro | CS F96



Rain Day Still-8 by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[bedrof]

Comrades, is that natural for the XP2 developed in HC-110 to have a violet/pink tint? Or that might be due to insufficient fixing?

 

[Auer]

Comrades, is that natural for the XP2 developed in HC-110 to have a violet/pink tint? Or that might be due to insufficient fixing?

Normal, nothing to worry about.

 

[bedrof]

Normal, nothing to worry about.

Great, thanks!
I was worrying that I made a mistake when mixing the fixer according to https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/a-neutral-quick-fixer-formula.357/

This morning found here message #118 which shows exactly the same colour I got yesterday.

 

[Raghu Kuvempunagar]

From Ilford's datasheet:

"Negative appearance
Correctly processed XP2 SUPER negatives are usually pink or red-brown and slightly darker than other black and white negatives. Although the exact image colour will depend on the method of processing such variations will not usually affect the image quality.

Processed XP2 SUPER negatives will lose their overall pink colour when washed for a particularly long time or when exposed for long periods to daylight. This affects neither image quality nor printing time. It is caused by the bleaching of the small amount of sensitising dye that remains in the emulsion after processing."

 

[drmoss_ca]

Having put a new motor on my Rondinax base, and made one for the Lab-Box, I had to run some XP2 (EI 200, Diafine 5+5) through. Seems I'm growing some hair back at last:

 

[Raghu Kuvempunagar]

Having put a new motor on my Rondinax base, and made one for the Lab-Box, I had to run some XP2 (EI 200, Diafine 5+5) through. Seems I'm growing some hair back at last:

Another arresting self-portrait!

 

[dourbalistar]

More from the same roll. Not the best composition, but I'm surprised how grain free the image is, despite most of the roll coming out very thin.

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 105mm f/2.4, Ilford XP2 Super (expired 2017), developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:49 for 10 minutes.


2021.03.06 Roll #272-05992-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[Auer]

I like this look a lot. Gonna try with a orange filter next time.

Canon FT | Canon FL 58mm ƒ1.2 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 at ISO 50 | Cinestill Cd41 | CS F96 | Bleach Bypass


This Block by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Donald Qualls]

I like this look a lot.

Yep. XP2 Super in bleach bypass is good.

 

[Auer]

Yep. XP2 Super in bleach bypass is good.

Indeed, I'm sold.

Canon FT | Canon FL 58mm ƒ1.2 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 at ISO 50 | Cinestill Cd41 | CS F96 | Bleach Bypass



Askew by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Auer]

Also, a bag of Cinestill Cd41 is $13. I get about 15-20 rolls out of it if I shoot a lot, Last time I shot a roll a day for about a month.
I use the same fixer as I use for regular B&W stuff, Cinestill F96. No stop.
So for me doing XP2 Super in C41 with Bleach Bypass is simple, fast and fairly economical with results that I personally like.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I run replenished Flexicolor, so it's cheap for me, too. You might look at buying Flexicolor fixer; it's actually cheaper to use than B&W rapid fixer (downside is you have to buy a lot of it at once). and works just as well for both (though it's probably sensible to keep separate working solutions, I don't know that it's strictly necessary).

 

[Auer]

I run replenished Flexicolor, so it's cheap for me, too. You might look at buying Flexicolor fixer; it's actually cheaper to use than B&W rapid fixer (downside is you have to buy a lot of it at once). and works just as well for both (though it's probably sensible to keep separate working solutions, I don't know that it's strictly necessary).

Nice.
I try to keep my chemicals to a minimum tho, and have one liter of F96, one liter of Cd41 and a bottle of HC110 and Rodinal each.
I like simplicity. I am also experimenting with Eco Pro atm, replenished. I doubt I keep that around tho when done but might mix up some D76 for one shot later.

It's not about space, I own a old farmette with plenty of space but I just dont want a ton of stuff that eventually would only go bad on me around

 

[Donald Qualls]

C-41 fixer lasts pretty well. My current working solution for B&W is C-41 fixer that I got for free in 2005 -- it was expired then, and spent five or six winters in my shed, where it got down near 0 F in the winter, and over 100 F in summer. It smells of sulfur, and has a little residue in the bottom, but pour off the liquid and dilute appropriately (1+4) and it works fine -- currently at about 20 rolls for the two liters. I'd recommend getting that (from Unique Photo) next time you need to buy; the "makes 5L" package is only a one liter bottle because it gets diluted.

Flexicolor developer, on the other hand, I learned after mixing a liter of working solution and a liter of replenisher, is known for the C component of the concentrate going off after it's been opened, so mixing the whole 5L amount and storing it in a wine bladder is the recommended method. Still, with the LORR version, 30-35 ml per roll and the working strength replenisher lasts well as long as it isn't exposed to too much air.

 

[Auer]

C-41 fixer lasts pretty well. My current working solution for B&W is C-41 fixer that I got for free in 2005 -- it was expired then, and spent five or six winters in my shed, where it got down near 0 F in the winter, and over 100 F in summer. It smells of sulfur, and has a little residue in the bottom, but pour off the liquid and dilute appropriately (1+4) and it works fine -- currently at about 20 rolls for the two liters. I'd recommend getting that (from Unique Photo) next time you need to buy; the "makes 5L" package is only a one liter bottle because it gets diluted.

Flexicolor developer, on the other hand, I learned after mixing a liter of working solution and a liter of replenisher, is known for the C component of the concentrate going off after it's been opened, so mixing the whole 5L amount and storing it in a wine bladder is the recommended method. Still, with the LORR version, 30-35 ml per roll and the working strength replenisher lasts well as long as it isn't exposed to too much air.

Thing is, the F96 still clears a test strip in under a minute after 30 rolls (that's when I get rid of it), and I only need to keep a liter around for all my needs.
And its $8 and comes in a powder form so it's easy for me to have some extra in a drawer along with a bag of Cd96, Cn2, DF96 and D76

 

[Donald Qualls]

Seems like you've got it figured out...

 

[Auer]

Voigtländer Bessa 46 | Skopar 75mm ƒ3.5 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 | CS Cd41 | CS F96 | Bleach Bypass

Gotta love the simplicity of the C41 process too, Minus the bleach...
This was shot at max shutter speed on a sunny day, 300 @ f16.



Pipe by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Raghu Kuvempunagar]

Voigtländer Bessa 46 | Skopar 75mm ƒ3.5 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 | CS Cd41 | CS F96 | Bleach Bypass

Gotta love the simplicity of the C41 process too, Minus the bleach...
This was shot at max shutter speed on a sunny day, 300 @ f16.

That's a good one!

If XP2 Super can be developed at room temperature in C41 developer without comprising anything, it'll make the process even simpler. At least there is no color crossover to worry because of the reduced temperature. Have you tried it and does it work fine?

 

[Auer]

That's a good one!

If XP2 Super can be developed at room temperature in C41 developer without comprising anything, it'll make the process even simpler. At least there is no color crossover to worry because of the reduced temperature. Have you tried it and does it work fine?

I have no interest in trying things at room temp, its so fast and simple to heat up to 103F and be done in 10 some minutes rinse included.
And very predicatable and repeatable results too.

 

[Raghu Kuvempunagar]

I have no interest in trying things at room temp, its so fast and simple to heat up to 103F and be done in 10 some minutes rinse included.
And very predicatable and repeatable results too.

That's true, it's so fast at the elevated temperature and probably not too sensitive to small variations in temperature like color film.

 

[Auer]

Voigtländer Bessa 46 | Skopar 75mm ƒ3.5 | Ilford XP2 Super 400 | CS Cd41 | CS F96 | Bleach Bypass



Incognito by Eric Auer, on Flickr

 

[Donald Qualls]

If XP2 Super can be developed at room temperature in C41 developer without comprising anything, it'll make the process even simpler. At least there is no color crossover to worry because of the reduced temperature. Have you tried it and does it work fine?

I've done XP-2 Super at room temp in Flexicolor, same 45 minute stand folks sometimes use for color negs. Works fine, normal seeming contrast, normal seeming speed. Combine with bleach bypass, highly recommended.

Compared to getting everything up to 38 C, it's not even significantly slower, and I can do something else for most of the stand time(s) (bleach needs to go longer at room temp, too, if you're using it).