Ilford Delta 400 experience

[summicron1]

OK, so I loaded two rolls of 35 and one of 120 into the tank thinking they were all films that I soup for 10 minutes -- Tri-X and HP5 -- the HP5 is supposed to be at 12 minutes, but I find at 10 it gives identical results to tri-x, and since tri-x is supposed to be 9.5, what the heck, an extra 30 seconds won't kill it.

However, the roll of 120 as actually some Delta 400 I have been shooting, which is supposed to be done at 14 minutes -- a significant increase. Was I risking massive underdevelopment?

Apparently not. I decided to lose 12 shots rather than 48 on the two rolls of 35 -- which would have been really overdeveloped if done for 14 minutes -- so I did the whole thing at 10. When I took the 120 out, well, the negatives looked just fine, with even tones and a nice spread of shades of gray and all that. Really excellent shadow detail.

Anyone else have this experience? I kind of like these results.

I should note: D76 1:1, 68 degrees. I metered with an incident meter, aiming for proper exposure in shadow areas especially when backlit, so I'm guessing I just mellowed down the bright areas, an inadvertent application of the zone system, or something.

thoughts?

 

[NJH]

Yes to a degree. Have a look at Darkroom Dave's times for Delta 400 and FP4 here:
http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/process-times-for-ilford-fp4-sfx-and-delta-400/

He gives 7.5 mins for the film at EI 500 in DD-X 1+4, Ilford on their carton say 8 mins for EI 400. I have been using a fair bit of Delta 400 and HP5 in DD-X recently and find the Ilford times in general a touch long, I end up with very dense looking negs but I agitate very gently like one would with Rodinal.

Also you are spot on about the gradation, its one of the things I really like about Delta 400, the really wide and smooth set of grey tones is obvious just holding up a negative to the light.

 

[Lachlan Young]

10m in ID-11, 1+1 at 20c is an Ilford recommended time - for an EI of 200. A shadow key, as you did, will likely give a closer to box effective EI. As it is, that 10m time/temp/dev combo is one of my favourites - wonderfully easy to print negs & beautiful tonalities. The G-bar/ CI works out to about .52-.55 extrapolating off the datasheet (albeit, the provided data is for stock ID-11).

 

[jeffreyg]

I have been using Delta 400 120 for many years at box speed (400) and developed in ID11 1+0 and 1+1 and more recently with DD-X 1+4 at 68F for 8 minutes. It has worked well for me with either developers both at box times. The only time I vary is if a contrast situation warrants. Once because of laziness I developed a roll of Delta 100 120 and Delta 400 120 in DD-X fpr 10 min (splitting the difference of 12min and 8min and got very good results not that I would recommend doing that. Either the films are forgiving or I just got lucky or both.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[mooseontheloose]

I should note: D71 1:1, 68 degrees.

Do you mean D-76? I haven't heard of D-71. Either way, it's good to know that your results turned out well. I've been using Delta 400 as my go-to high(er) speed film, as its speed is 640 in Moersch Finol developer. I like the tones and the soft highlights I get with this combination, but it's good to know how others are developing it at other times (something I need to do myself, with a couple of my go-to developers).

 

[summicron1]

Do you mean D-76? I haven't heard of D-71. Either way, it's good to know that your results turned out well. I've been using Delta 400 as my go-to high(er) speed film, as its speed is 640 in Moersch Finol developer. I like the tones and the soft highlights I get with this combination, but it's good to know how others are developing it at other times (something I need to do myself, with a couple of my go-to developers).

Yes-- D76 -- my fingers can't spel worth a dan.

thanks!

 

[Zathras]

BIG SNIP.......

I should note: D76 1:1, 68 degrees. I metered with an incident meter, aiming for proper exposure in shadow areas especially when backlit, so I'm guessing I just mellowed down the bright areas, an inadvertent application of the zone system, or something.

thoughts?

What ISO speed do you use for the Delta 400 with the incident meter? I have found that using box speed works best for me when using an incident meter if I use it for a shadow base reading as you are doing here. If I'm not placing the meter in a shaded area I tend to set my incident meter a 1/2 box speed, or underexposure happens

 

[summicron1]

What ISO speed do you use for the Delta 400 with the incident meter? I have found that using box speed works best for me when using an incident meter if I use it for a shadow base reading as you are doing here. If I'm not placing the meter in a shaded area I tend to set my incident meter a 1/2 box speed, or underexposure happens

I use box speed. I use an incident meter, getting as close to the subject as practical and holding the meter pointing the dome at the lens so the light falling on the dome is similar to the light falling on the subject -- again, as much as practical. On the shot of my grandson, for example, it was essentially a shade exposure even though he was standing in the sun, but backlit. There's also the "kentucky windage" factor -- if I think the situation just calls for a titch more exposure because of a dark subject, or the karma is wrong, or something.

 

[M Carter]

Just my .02, but data sheets, massive dev. chart, "how your buddy develops it" - all starting points. Your technique and gear and agitation style, and your eye and your final output (darkroom printing or scanning) all come into play. I just processed a bunch of 4x5 pinhole negs and tests had me settle on Rodinal 1+60, which isn't on any charts out there.

I process a sheet or a chunk of a roll, dry it, and make a small print - but first I use the leader or an unexposed edge with 4x5 to find the max-black print time (film base + fog). If I can't get a serviceable print at that exposure time, at least the print will tell me if I need more or less exposure and more or less development for that film, in the developer. I don't want my main exposure to stray very far from the max-black time.

 

[craigclu]

Years back, I had episodes with odd development results when mixing certain films in the same tank...and avoided doing it. I've recently been running all sorts of film types together as I'm doing a bunch of equipment checks (rangefinder accuracy with various optics/bodies, etc.) and I'm reminded of those past episodes. I recall Ryuji Suzuki seeing this behavior and commenting on it when he was developing his film developers. I trust his expertise on these things and have had the same experience. What could be at the core of this? A pH shift from emulsion differences and shared tank? Anyone out there with some knowledge on this sort of effect?