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ID-11 alternative?

There are many versions of D76, the Kodak version has changed over the past 100 or so years
Indeed, and these posts from 3+ years ago
and other ones that thread provide some (IMO) evidence that the current commercial Kodak D-76 is buffered with 4g borax + 2g boric acid. Somewhere between "historical" D-76 and D-76d. ID11?? IDK.
 
Not sure if Clayton F76 is available in the E.U. I used DDX and Tmax developer for T grain film with good results. As T grain films have fine grain Tmax and DDX were developed for speed and acuatance. Maybe ISO 100 PF4 or Foma 100 would be fine in DDX, I guess in MF and LF gain would be an issue. HC110 or LIfordtech HC would be better choice TriX, HP5, Foma 400. Saying that, some folks prefer apparent sharpness over small gain, in that case DDX or Rodinal.
 
D76 is the same developer I think.
The published formulas for D-76 and ID-11 ARE identical but both have "secret sauce" ingredients that are proprietary trade secrets to make them less likely to increase in pH as they are stored and also make them simpler to mix.
 
Mixing D76 is a bit like pouring draught Guinness. You have to wait for it. Never use on the same day you mix.
 
The only sauces are the sequestering compounds in D-76 to allow for single packages/mixing.
The published formulas for D-76 and ID-11 ARE identical but both have "secret sauce" ingredients that are proprietary trade secrets to make them less likely to increase in pH as they are stored and also make them simpler to mix.
 
The only sauces are the sequestering compounds in D-76 to allow for single packages/mixing.

There is some evidence that the formula changed. See above packaging from Kodak Australia, which lists boric acid as well as borax, which would improve buffering. That might help if not using it single shot.
 

I would suggest you keep some D-23 around in case you have difficulty getting hold of D-76 or ID-11. Main ingredients (Metol & Sodium sulfite) are the same, and you can easily get a few back-up packages from Photographers Formulary. That's what I did, and like D-23 so much that it has become my main developer (I now keep a couple of packs of ID-11 as back-ups).

Contrast is easily controllable through agitation.
 
There is a "human friendly" version of D-76 (and Dektol), by Chris Patton (Stanford.edu) lacking Hydroquinone and Metol.

BTW: I always wondered if (standard-) Dektol could be 'altered' so it could be used as a decent film developer, just in case when D-76 wasn't available.
Dektol's (= D-72) formula looks so similar as D-76...
 

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I have like you read this time and again. But never in the Eastman Kodak printed literature.
Is that your personal experience? Like, e.g., identical exposed frames, develop one as soon as mixed dev has cooled down to 20°C, second one 24hrs later?

I recall (if memory works well) to have read somewhere in an old Kodak publication about "seasoning" fresh film developer by adding some 'old' (yet not used-) developer just before use, if any is left ofcourse.
 
I have like you read this time and again. But never in the Eastman Kodak printed literature.

Same in Ilford literature, they explicitly say after mixing at a higher temperature, as soon as the developer cools to the processing temp it is ready to use.
 
The only sauces are the sequestering compounds in D-76 to allow for single packages/mixing.

A patent I read years ago about single powder developers mentioned Lithium hydrochloride being used in the packaging. I wonder if that helps it to dissolve more easily. It's probably present in a very small quantity.
 
There is a "human friendly" version of D-76 (and Dektol), by Chris Patton (Stanford.edu) lacking Hydroquinone and Metol.
if it's lacking Hydroquinone and Metol, then it isn't D-76 ; )

BTW: I always wondered if (standard-) Dektol could be 'altered' so it could be used as a decent film developer, just in case when D-76 wasn't available.
Dektol's (= D-72) formula looks so similar as D-76...

this likely isn't going to work since D-72 contains Sodium carbonate which raises the pH value significantly.
 
A patent I read years ago about single powder developers mentioned Lithium hydrochloride being used in the packaging. I wonder if that helps it to dissolve more easily. It's probably present in a very small quantity.

I should have written lithium hydroxide, my mistake.
Anyway, Daniela wants to buy packaged ID11 which hopefully will be available again soon.
 
Kodak had several patents in the 1950s related to packaging powder developers in single packets. In that context I recall lithium hydroxide being used mostly in highly alkaline developer formulas in place of sodium hydroxide but you might be right. An example of a stabilizing compound for single packaging is boric anhydride (still used in D-76…).
A patent I read years ago about single powder developers mentioned Lithium hydrochloride being used in the packaging. I wonder if that helps it to dissolve more easily. It's probably present in a very small quantity.
 
Yes, boric anhydride was mentioned in the patent too along with lithium hydroxide. It was a developer of the D76 type.
 

D-72 in early usage was another "universal" developer, depending on dilution it could be used for films, plates, magic lantern slides and a whole slew of different paper types. The only thing it was NOT suitable for was miniature films like 127, 828, and 35mm. It's "close cousing is D-19. Early versions of Kodak info and Photo Lab index list many more possibilities than later info. If you are mixing your own, with 6 chemicals you can nearly mix every powdered chemical that Kodak and Ilford make, or at least their non-proprietary versions. D-72 uses a lot of sodium carbonate, a very active and alkaline accelerator; D-76 uses a small amount of borax, a very mild alkali accelerator.
 
I love PanF at 1/2 speed in D23. The extra exposure brings up detail in the shadows while the developer keeps the highlights under control. Thanks to Analogue Andy for cluing me in to that. For other films, I have one more bag of D76 left, but after that D23 has given me the confidence to make my own. It's just D23 with a couple more ingredients. Easy Peasy.
 
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I have often switched between D-76/ID-11 and XTOL. They both are general purpose developers. You can make the case XTOL has the advantage on ID-11 but at my size prints I don’t see a meaningful difference. Advantage XTOL is its fully researched with developing times applied to films.
 

As well as Xtol offers 1/3 or even 2/3 of a stop more film speed over D-76/ID-11.

I still prefer ID-11 1:1 to Xtol however. I feel ID-11 gives me a “grittier” feel than Xtol. Atleast with HP5 anyway. This is all very subjective of course.
 
As we are talking now about the relation between film and developer; I am about to try Ilford SFX200/120 (with a deep orange filter, HOYA O25).
I was thinking on processing it in XT-3 1+1, as I have it standing ready mixed.
Ilford advises ILFOTEC DD-X, which I don't have in house nor do I have ID-11, but I can easily mix E-76.

Any thoughts?